HELP!!! Speaker Cables for Monitor Audio RS8 system

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Anonymous

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icl:
Trevor, you have inspired me to upgrade the crossovers in my RS8's and RSLCR. If you don't mind, I'd lke to confirm with you the components (and their values) you recommend. The codes in brackets are order codes from www.hificollective.co.uk.

Capacitors:

Per RS8:

Clarity Cap SA, 1 x 3.9 uF (CCSA230)

Clarity Cap SA , 1 x 6.8 uF (CCSA300) - How come you did not use a 6.2uF cap as it is closer to the original value of 6uF?

Coils:

L2 coils: Mundorf M-Coil Aronit-core coils (BA140)

L3/L4 coils: Mundorf Foil M-Coil (CFC-14)

Resistors:

Which one for the RS8's:

Mundorf M-Resist Supreme, 1.8 Ohm, 20 Watts (MRES20-040), or

Duelund Graphite Silver, 1.8 Ohm, 10 Watts (DUELR-040)

Probably would not be much difference, would there?

Bypasses (one per capacitor):

Vishay MKP1837.

My main goal with this upgrade is not only to improve sound quality but, in particular, eliminate the harshness/brightness of the RS8's. Will the upgrade do the job?

In one of your posts you mention that you need to "Net Flux and tin" the replacement caps. What does that mean and how do you do it?

Where do you place the long-haired wool and where can I buy some?

I currently use Kimber 8VS speaker cable (single run). Do you think it is worth upgrading the cables? How come you use QED SA for the lows and not some 8TC cable?

Sorry for bombarding you with all these questions! I am really anxious to start this project!!

I look forward to receiving your advice!

Iason

Sorry, I have been away so only just picked up on your post!

You seem to have nailed it, I didn't use the 6.2uf cap as it was not available when I did mine, the 6.8uf was the nearest value I could get. Your coils are the same ones I used. Sorry I cannot advise on the resistors as I haven't done an A/B comparision. Either should be just fine. I would be guided by Hi Fi collective on that.

Tinning the leads is just a procedure you do before soldering anything else onto it. The long hair wool I bought a box off Russ Andrews many years ago. Same with my 4TC speaker cable. My speakers are both bi amped and bi wired and as you have observed I use the better cable for the mid range / treble.
I find the SA cable fine for the bass, the really huge improvements to the whole performance comes with the pure mains supply and the elimination of the 'noise floor' through the whole system. The Sub handles most of the bass which is really impressive in its detail and tunefulness.

I think you will be astounded when you build up the crossovers, you won't believe your ears!
 
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Anonymous

Guest
trevor79:Sorry, I have been away so only just picked up on your post!

You seem to have nailed it, I didn't use the 6.2uf cap as it was not available when I did mine, the 6.8uf was the nearest value I could get. Your coils are the same ones I used. Sorry I cannot advise on the resistors as I haven't done an A/B comparision. Either should be just fine. I would be guided by Hi Fi collective on that.

Tinning the leads is just a procedure you do before soldering anything else onto it. The long hair wool I bought a box off Russ Andrews many years ago. Same with my 4TC speaker cable. My speakers are both bi amped and bi wired and as you have observed I use the better cable for the mid range / treble.
I find the SA cable fine for the bass, the really huge improvements to the whole performance comes with the pure mains supply and the elimination of the 'noise floor' through the whole system. The Sub handles most of the bass which is really impressive in its detail and tunefulness.

I think you will be astounded when you build up the crossovers, you won't believe your ears!

Hi Trevor. Thanks for your reply.

I find that my RS8's are a little harsh with some music tracks - especially with female vocals. The harshness is in the treble (not very high, I think). It make the speakers tiring to listen to. Would the modification help there? How did the sound of your RS8's change after you upgraded the crossovers? Was it harsh to you prior to the modification?
 
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Anonymous

Guest
They transformed the sound into a whole new level.

The effortless transparency and timing, detail and depth with a lovely easy feel to the ears.

Everything from all sources sounds good. We listen to them for at least 6 hours every day (TV, Films, Music) they never seem tiring.

Cannot recommend hand built with quality components crossovers high enough.

One of the most cost effective mods you can do IMO
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Trevor,

When you say that they have "lovely easy feel to the ears" after the mod, are you omplying that before the mod you found the RS8's to be a little harsh in the mid/highs and tiring to tlisten to? I am trying to figure out if the improvement(s) you experienced are the ones I am looking for.

Did you also mention in earlier post that you had some modded Rogers? I have a pair of Rogers LS7t's and was wondering what components would be best to use to mod them. The same makes as used for the RS8's?
 
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Anonymous

Guest
On a value for money basis Clarity cap SA's stand out as being exceptional.

You have to buy speakers costing thousand of pounds more to have this quality of crossover parts fitted in them.

The massive reduction in the colouration of the sound is what these mods achieve. It's akin to wearing dark sunglasses and taking them off and viewing things in natural light.

Of course if you have a hang over this will not be an improvement!
 

arablondon

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trevor79 Could you please come and upgrade my RS 6
emotion-1.gif
 
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Anonymous

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Hi! Greetings from Spain,ÿ

I find very interesting this thread and i am thinking in doing this in my MA RS6. Please, anyone that has the crossover diagram can send me to david at hotmail.com ? I've tried to get it asking by e-mail but no response yet.ÿ

Thanks a lot
 

vinod_david

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Nov 18, 2007
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Very interesting thread, just read from start to finish, but these modding are only for RS8 or can be for RS6 also?

Next, the modding has to be done ONLY by people who know about circuit diagrams, soldering, etc., OR somedbody like me who knows nothing, haven't touched soldering rods or capacitors, et al. ????
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Has anyone asked themselves why the MAs over most other brands need modding? could it be they are deficient in some way?
 
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Anonymous

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vinod_david:Very interesting thread, just read from start to finish, but these modding are only for RS8 or can be for RS6 also?

Next, the modding has to be done ONLY by people who know about circuit diagrams, soldering, etc., OR somedbody like me who knows nothing, haven't touched soldering rods or capacitors, et al. ????

Hi David, Significant improvements can be made on all speakers by custom building the Crossovers. One needs to obtain the circuit diagrams to find the values of each component.

High end components tend to be larger is size so often a bigger board is needed to hard wire them together. Whilst it is straight forward enough job I would say some practical experience helps.
Find a mate who can help you is a good idea.
 
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Anonymous

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trevor79: Hi David, Significant improvements can be made on all speakers by custom building the Crossovers. Simply not true, my old mucker. Don't even know how you have the gall to say that, you just don't know.
 

vinod_david

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Nov 18, 2007
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Trevor:

As a first step, out of curiosity, thanx to this thread, I unscrewed one of the bass driver of my RS6 and pulled out the driver gingerly, the Xover unit is jam-packed behind the packings, couldn't remove it to analyze it. How do you do that? - got lots more questions to ask, as I venture into modding my RS6, so if Mr E doesn't mind, can you give me your mail id for future correspondence, mine is (vinod.david.babu@gmail.com).

TIA.
 
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Anonymous

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Hi this thread is still live!

I'm also interested in upgrading my RS8's.

Trevor any chance you can email me the details, kleox64@hotmail.com

regards

Kleo
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Hello Trevor

I have been reading about your mods to the RS8's with great interest . I just baught a pair and I find them a bit too bright for me . I was wondering if it's not too much trouble , if you could email me the details of your mods and the parts needed as living in Jamaica I cannot return the speakers ( I baught them in the US ) . My email is afememail@yahoo.com .

Thanks in advance

Patrick
 

aliEnRIK

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jasound:

I have been reading about your mods to the RS8's with great interest . I just baught a pair and I find them a bit too bright for me .

You need to run them in for a few weeks yet. They will sound 'bright' to start with
 
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Anonymous

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Trevor,

I have been following your thread with much interest. I have an RS 6 and am planning to carry out this mod. Would like to know from your experience, the nature of improvement each of the below steps will bring to the sound.

1. Replacing internal wiring with Kimber kable (4VS/8VS) directly soldered to the drivers

2. Clarity caps with bypass caps

3. Replacing the foam damping filling with natural wool fibre (Russ Andrews Acoustiwool)

4. Replacing the tweeter resistor with Deulund resistor

5. Attaching damping sheets (Dynamat or Bitumastic sheets) to the driver magnet sheilds (they ring!!) and tweeter magnet

6. Lining the cabinet interior with bitumastic sheet to damp the cabinet vibration

7. Replacing the binding posts with WBT

8. Rewiring the crossover point to point with better wire like kimber

9, Replacing the inductors to better ones (like you did)

Would like to hear from you on which of the above are most beneficial, and which ones are not worth trying at all..

Appreciate your suggestions....

Thanks
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Try the Studio Connections Speaker cable I heard it on the Monitor Audio speakers at the Milan show- stunningly good.And I mean stunning. (Renaissance Audio in Scotland distribute them)

As for mains filters- chop them out and get the topology simple, work all the system component from a single, suitiably rated decent mains supply point (could be multiple outlets). There are very few filters / mains sytems that work in a system (see my posting on mains cables for details about that).

Good luck on your search for audio utopia
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Hi Trev

I recently bought a second hand pair of rs8's (for a ridiculos price!) along with about 15 m of monitor audi pureflow biwire. I am very interested in squeezing the best out of the rs8's and wonder if you would be so kind as to give me a few pointers ( i am getting a friend to do the actual work as i would prob break something!!!)

I have ordered the clarity caps and the Duelund resistors. I called Farnells for the Vishay MKP1837s but was asked about the voltage . Can you let me know the voltage of the Vishay that i need? .......( i shoul order 4 - is this right?)

Also would the pureflow cable benefit the sound if i used it to replace the internal wiring on the rs8's? Is the pureflow a good enough standard cable for the rs8's (speaker to amp) and should i biwire with it (most of what i have read on biwiring seems to indicate that there would be no discernable improvement by doing it.

Also should i replace the monitor audio termnail links with maybe chord wiring or even the pureflow i got as well ?

Soory for all the questions and thanks for taking the time to read them.

my email is mccloskeypat@hotmail.com

Any input form anyone would be appreciated

Kind regards

Pat
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Good Day from Maine,US.

I know this is an OLD thread. But, would anyone have a schematic/picture of the current preferred mod for the RS8's I could get a copy of( I am a visual tab A into slot B type of person)? Also, it seems to have changed a bit from the beginning of the thread with additions like bypass circuits. I have been rehabbing an old pair of Respons Grands and enjoy the smoothness in the midrange. It sounds like the modifications you all have done can smooth out the my RS8's. Thank you in advance to anyone who may choose to respond at this point.
 

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