ma rx6 , bi-amp or not bi-amp ?

[admin_exported]

is it worth it with my other gear , nad c326bee and marantz cd6003 ? im assuming both will be working overtime keeping the rx6s fed ?

i cannot upgrade them for a while , so they will have to do a temporary job , my dealer can make up some decent cable lengths with banana plugs or whatever it is that ill need , and i can pick them up on saturday with the speakers , any thoughts guys ?? cheers ...

 

[Dave_]

You mean bi-wire!

And no i'd personally spend the money on better single wire.

 

[Anonymous]

i thought bi-amping was the way to go ? can that not be done on a stereo amp ?

congrats by the way

 

[Dave_]

Not on it's own. You'd need to add a power amp.

Cheers, i did just do a little

 

[Dave_]

Actually in the case of your NAD, make that a brace of power amps.

As i'm not sure there's anyway to retain it's intergrated functionality and feed a power amp simultaneously.

 

[Anonymous]

ah i see , thats that then , cheers , are you on the beer

 

[d_a_n1979]

Max; when you get the RX6's I can highly recommend that you remove tyhe jumper bars and use either:

A run of youre own speaker cable to connect LF to HF and then plug your speaker cable into the LF connections

OR

Get some Chord Company Siganture speaker cable jumpers (which I use) as they do make a big difference in sound

 

[jaxwired]

My speakers don't allow either as they only have one set of posts, but I personally don't like bi-amping or bi-wiring. I'd call the improvements dubious. In both cases I think your money is better spent. In the case of wire, rather than bi-wire, I'd just buy more expensive single wire. In the case of bi-amp, you're better off just replacing the amp with an upgrade. These solutions also look much nicer IMO.

 

[d_a_n1979]

Ah see jax I'm not in agreement with your comments at all...

I kind of agree re bi-wiring as it takes a lot of listening and swapping to hear the differences

Re bi-amping; I will always say that if you can do it then DO IT!

Bi-amping has ALWAYS, to me, made the soundstage a lot fuller with broader, deeper and punchier bass but has also really opened up the midrange and treble.

I think with the likes of Arcam, NAD, Roksan and Rotel; the addition of their matching power amps is a deffinate future upgrade BEFORE looking at upgrading the integrated amp!

 

[Anonymous]

d_a_n1979:Max; when you get the RX6's I can highly recommend that you remove tyhe jumper bars and use either:

A run of youre own speaker cable to connect LF to HF and then plug your speaker cable into the LF connections

OR

Get some Chord Company Siganture speaker cable jumpers (which I use) as they do make a big difference in sound

cheers dan , i have a friend who uses ebay , ill get him to get me them chord cable jumpers , and whatever speaker cable you reccomend

 

[AEJim]

jaxwired:My speakers don't allow either as they only have one set of posts, but I personally don't like bi-amping or bi-wiring. I'd call the improvements dubious. In both cases I think your money is better spent. In the case of wire, rather than bi-wire, I'd just buy more expensive single wire. In the case of bi-amp, you're better off just replacing the amp with an upgrade. These solutions also look much nicer IMO.

Just FYI, you can bi-amp single-wire speakers (it's brought up a lot as we don't like to offer bi-wire terminals any more since single-wire = less complicated, therefore better, crossover). Just bi-amp left and right rather than treble and bass... Though this may mean 2 x power amps or monoblocks as integrated + single power amp may not give perfect results in this configuration.

 

[d_a_n1979]

maxflinn:d_a_n1979:Max; when you get the RX6's I can highly recommend that you remove tyhe jumper bars and use either:

A run of youre own speaker cable to connect LF to HF and then plug your speaker cable into the LF connections

OR

Get some Chord Company Siganture speaker cable jumpers (which I use) as they do make a big difference in sound

cheers dan , i have a friend who uses ebay , ill get him to get me them chord cable jumpers , and whatever speaker cable you reccomend

What is your current speaker cable Max?

 

[Anonymous]

norstone cable , only e2.50 a metre dan ..

 

[d_a_n1979]

It's not just about price Max; it's the quality of cable as well

IMO you wont go wrong with the Chord Carnival Silverscreen cable. Gte yourself 2 x the right lengths but get another meter of cable as well seperately. Cut this in to 4 equal sections and use it to replace the speaker jumper bars that'll be on the speakers.

You can connect the cable using bare wire and just unscrew the terminal and add it that way or you could buy some spade-ends and use them instead and then connect the speaker cable to the LF connections.

If you cant be bothered with the hassle (like me) buy the Chord Signature ones haha

 

[Anonymous]

sure dan , cheers , ill get my mate to order up the chord carnival cabling , and them chord jumpers too , prolly wont have em for a few weeks , the rx6s can be running in in the meantime

 

[jaxwired]

d_a_n1979:Ah see jax I'm not in agreement with your comments at all... I kind of agree re bi-wiring as it takes a lot of listening and swapping to hear the differences Re bi-amping; I will always say that if you can do it then DO IT! Bi-amping has ALWAYS, to me, made the soundstage a lot fuller with broader, deeper and punchier bass but has also really opened up the midrange and treble. I think with the likes of Arcam, NAD, Roksan and Rotel; the addition of their matching power amps is a deffinate future upgrade BEFORE looking at upgrading the integrated amp!

Well, I do agree that biamping is going to be more noticable than biwiring, but I'm skeptical about the level of improvment possible especially with NAD which has bags of dynamic headroom. I'd rather upgrade to a Roksan, Quad, Cyrus, or Naim than have 2 NADs biamped.

Regarding biamping using one amp for each speaker, I'd never recommend that approach. Stereo amps that are bridged as mono blocks see the speaker impedence load as half it's normal value. So a 4 ohm load appears to the amp as a 2 ohm load. This is very taxing on the amplifier. It will run hot and some amps will be smoked.

 

[AEJim]

jaxwired:
d_a_n1979:Ah see jax I'm not in agreement with your comments at all... I kind of agree re bi-wiring as it takes a lot of listening and swapping to hear the differences Re bi-amping; I will always say that if you can do it then DO IT! Bi-amping has ALWAYS, to me, made the soundstage a lot fuller with broader, deeper and punchier bass but has also really opened up the midrange and treble. I think with the likes of Arcam, NAD, Roksan and Rotel; the addition of their matching power amps is a deffinate future upgrade BEFORE looking at upgrading the integrated amp!

Regarding biamping using one amp for each speaker, I'd never recommend that approach. Stereo amps that are bridged as mono blocks see the speaker impedence load as half it's normal value. So a 4 ohm load appears to the amp as a 2 ohm load. This is very taxing on the amplifier. It will run hot and some amps will be smoked.

Nah, I'd recommend 1 pre-amp and a couple of mono-blocks - I used to run an Audiolab 8000Q and 2 x M's through some Mission 753's in that configuration and it worked very well, no clipping problems.