Can anybody explain how different hi-fi racks give different sound? For example, a wood one gives a smoother sound, or a steel-welded one gives a more weighty, rock-orientated sound? Surely, they just provide isolation from vibrations and this is what provides the better sound; however, if they provide different sounds, this cannot be! Please enlighten me!
How do Hi-Fi racks improve sound?
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[quote user="Hughes123"]Can anybody explain how different hi-fi racks give different sound? For example, a wood one gives a smoother sound, or a steel-welded one gives a more weighty, rock-orientated sound? Surely, they just provide isolation from vibrations and this is what provides the better sound; however, if they provide different sounds, this cannot be!
Please enlighten me!
[/quote]
Anything that's in the room can affect the sound slightly but the imagination can sure run riot at times.
Please enlighten me!
[/quote]
Anything that's in the room can affect the sound slightly but the imagination can sure run riot at times.
I do smile sometimes, Masterbluster, imagining what your system set-up is like: poor, overheated components stacked on top of each other, vibrating each other to bits; hooked up by bell-wire, all because ACCESSORIES ARE THE DEVIL
Reminds me of puritan Lord and Lady Whiteadder in Blackadder - 'chairs? Wicked child! At home Nathaniel sits on a spike...'.
Yes, some higher-end AV racks are more about style than sonic benefit, but a simple, sturdy rack (that doesn't have to cost a bomb) will isolate your components, give them the air to work without overheating and make it easier to use your kit (cable management etc).
Reminds me of puritan Lord and Lady Whiteadder in Blackadder - 'chairs? Wicked child! At home Nathaniel sits on a spike...'.
Yes, some higher-end AV racks are more about style than sonic benefit, but a simple, sturdy rack (that doesn't have to cost a bomb) will isolate your components, give them the air to work without overheating and make it easier to use your kit (cable management etc).
[quote user="Clare Newsome"] I do smile sometimes, Masterbluster, imagining what your system set-up is like: poor, overheated components stacked on top of each other[/quote]
I'm pleased to hear you smile sometimes, Clare.
I'm pleased to hear you smile sometimes, Clare.
Gerrardasnails
Well-known member
Ah Blackadder - what a programme!
Back to the post. Out of all the items that are given star ratings, racks are the puzzlers. For me, it has to be solid, look good and have enough room up down and around. Now, if all these boxes are ticked, five stars - unless they are over £500. I had the Aragon AG54 (I think it was called) and it was awarded three stars. It looked good to me. Once up on the wall and my 15kg receiver was placed, I realised why it only got three stars! I then had my rack made for me. Now everything is sturdy and it looks great.
Back to the post. Out of all the items that are given star ratings, racks are the puzzlers. For me, it has to be solid, look good and have enough room up down and around. Now, if all these boxes are ticked, five stars - unless they are over £500. I had the Aragon AG54 (I think it was called) and it was awarded three stars. It looked good to me. Once up on the wall and my 15kg receiver was placed, I realised why it only got three stars! I then had my rack made for me. Now everything is sturdy and it looks great.
[quote user="Masterbluster"]I'm pleased to hear you smile sometimes, Clare.
[/quote]
I think Ms. N has a bigger smile than normal today as Ipswich beat my team
2-1 today
(crying icon on my 2000 posts....never mind)
I think Ms. N has a bigger smile than normal today as Ipswich beat my team
2-1 today
[quote user="Andrew Everard"]
Previous post edited to remove offensive sexist nonsense
[/quote]
Who's was that?
Anyway, I was just a little confused about it. I use a very heavy, vibration free rack at the moment, and I was wondering whether it would be worth buying a new rack. I guess I do need a new one, if I want to buy a subwoofer to allow it and the speakers to breathe. Thanks everybody!
Previous post edited to remove offensive sexist nonsense
[/quote]
Who's was that?
Anyway, I was just a little confused about it. I use a very heavy, vibration free rack at the moment, and I was wondering whether it would be worth buying a new rack. I guess I do need a new one, if I want to buy a subwoofer to allow it and the speakers to breathe. Thanks everybody!
[quote user="Thaiman"]
I think Ms. N has a bigger smile than normal today as Ipswich beat my team
2-1 today
(crying icon on my 2000 posts....never mind)
[/quote]
I wasn't going to mention that, but YES!!!!!!
Playoffs here we come (maybe. And that normally means one thing...
)
Congrats, BTW - and many thanks - Thaiman for 2000 posts and counting. [*]
I think Ms. N has a bigger smile than normal today as Ipswich beat my team
2-1 today
[/quote]
I wasn't going to mention that, but YES!!!!!!
Congrats, BTW - and many thanks - Thaiman for 2000 posts and counting. [*]
Hi Hughes123.
Just thought I`d tell you about my recent purchase of an Atacama hi-fi rack.
Previously my components were on top of each other in an enclosed cabinet. (I know, I know, let the stoning commence). The amplifier would heat up within moments so I would just use for a short time before turning off. (Not that I often get the chance for a good long session anyway but there you go).
My new rack is very sturdy, looks great and my amplifier no longer overheats. I can now see my hi-fi components which makes a nice change. My set up includes some new additions which are always nice to look at and admire even when youre not listening to anything. Wether it improves the sound I wouldnt like to say. I am still burning in a new interconnect plus my speakers need re-positioning though I would be very surprised to discover that it doesn`t help at least a little.
But wether it does or doesn`t, I am very happy with my new rack and only wish I`d bought one sooner.
Good luck.
Just thought I`d tell you about my recent purchase of an Atacama hi-fi rack.
Previously my components were on top of each other in an enclosed cabinet. (I know, I know, let the stoning commence). The amplifier would heat up within moments so I would just use for a short time before turning off. (Not that I often get the chance for a good long session anyway but there you go).
My new rack is very sturdy, looks great and my amplifier no longer overheats. I can now see my hi-fi components which makes a nice change. My set up includes some new additions which are always nice to look at and admire even when youre not listening to anything. Wether it improves the sound I wouldnt like to say. I am still burning in a new interconnect plus my speakers need re-positioning though I would be very surprised to discover that it doesn`t help at least a little.
But wether it does or doesn`t, I am very happy with my new rack and only wish I`d bought one sooner.
Good luck.
Think i might be needing a new rack soon as my Naim's don't fit on the pixel one i bought just after christmas
Is there anything better than the acatama equinox for about the same price?
Right, thats the racks and footy sorted. Clare can you please explain to me the Term "timing" or "great timimg" as used in reviews for hi fi kit, can`t get me head roung it.
cheers
karl
cheers
karl
It involves playing rhythms crisply and accurately, rather than the slightly wayward sound you can get when systems hit the leading edges of sounds softly or smear the decay of the sound. It's usually to do with the speed with which the amplifier or speakers can react, due to poor power supply design in the first case, or underdamped drive units in the latter.
Imagine a car with shot shock absorbers, and you get some kind of impression of what bad timing means. Rather than you feeling the bump and that's it, the car keeps on wallowing long after you've hit that pothole or whatever.
Imagine a car with shot shock absorbers, and you get some kind of impression of what bad timing means. Rather than you feeling the bump and that's it, the car keeps on wallowing long after you've hit that pothole or whatever.
[quote user="Andrew Everard"]the car keeps on wallowing long after you've hit that pothole or whatever.
[/quote]
erm ... police women, on push bike, with yellows and lights, 6am nobody else on the road, 4 weeks ago ...
very bad timing. She's ok.
[/quote]
erm ... police women, on push bike, with yellows and lights, 6am nobody else on the road, 4 weeks ago ...
very bad timing. She's ok.
Equipment racks work best when they're strong, resistant to resonance and vibration, and above all, level. I don't mean 'slightly' level - I mean really level, using a spirit level. A good one, too. Years back (help me out here, hi-fi guys) the boys at Mana Acoustics furnished me with an especially accurate level that I still use to this day to set up anything I'm reviewing.
Why does being level make such a difference? Simply, because it allows the source component, typically a disc player, to devote more of its effort to reading the disc, and less to compensating for the errors created in reading said disc. The more level and stable your disc player, the better it'll sound. And yes, I'm aware that optical assemblies in CD players operate in nanometres, and yes, I doubt anyone could be so sensitive with their spirit levels that they could make that sort of adjustment - but that doesn't alter the fact that this particular bit of weird science actually works.
Want added evidence? The search for stability has driven many a CD manufacturer over the years, from Pioneer's stable-platter and TEAC's VRDS mechanisms through to the top-loading, puck-and-clamp designs popular at the moment in 'serious' hi-fi. Look at the latest generation of high-end CD players: built like tanks, one and all, and not just because they're chasing marketing credibility. They're all after the same thing - increased stability, and with it, accuracy.
The same benefits apply to any DVD or HD disc player, or indeed anything with moving parts, such as an HDD player. Of course, a turntable stands to benefit perhaps more than any other source.
Of course, other elements of stand design have an impact too: the proper control and dispersion of heat, in particular. But for all that - and especially for those of you looking to tweak your systems this weekend - do remember a session with a spirit level and a spanner (to tighten your stand's spikes properly) can be one of the cheapest upgrades you can make.
Why does being level make such a difference? Simply, because it allows the source component, typically a disc player, to devote more of its effort to reading the disc, and less to compensating for the errors created in reading said disc. The more level and stable your disc player, the better it'll sound. And yes, I'm aware that optical assemblies in CD players operate in nanometres, and yes, I doubt anyone could be so sensitive with their spirit levels that they could make that sort of adjustment - but that doesn't alter the fact that this particular bit of weird science actually works.
Want added evidence? The search for stability has driven many a CD manufacturer over the years, from Pioneer's stable-platter and TEAC's VRDS mechanisms through to the top-loading, puck-and-clamp designs popular at the moment in 'serious' hi-fi. Look at the latest generation of high-end CD players: built like tanks, one and all, and not just because they're chasing marketing credibility. They're all after the same thing - increased stability, and with it, accuracy.
The same benefits apply to any DVD or HD disc player, or indeed anything with moving parts, such as an HDD player. Of course, a turntable stands to benefit perhaps more than any other source.
Of course, other elements of stand design have an impact too: the proper control and dispersion of heat, in particular. But for all that - and especially for those of you looking to tweak your systems this weekend - do remember a session with a spirit level and a spanner (to tighten your stand's spikes properly) can be one of the cheapest upgrades you can make.
[quote user="marcymarc555"].....................goes in the garage.............to find laser level and tripod hehe[/quote]
Ah, you've seen Andy K setting up a system then...
Ah, you've seen Andy K setting up a system then...
[quote user="Andy Kerr"]But for all that - and especially for those of you looking to tweak your systems this weekend - do remember a session with a spirit level and a spanner (to tighten your stand's spikes properly) can be one of the cheapest upgrades you can make.[/quote] My girlfriend always takes the piss out of me for checking everything (Hifi) with a spirit level.
[quote user="fast eddie"]My girlfriend always takes the piss out of me for checking everything (Hifi) with a spirit level.
[/quote]
Never
Never
[quote user="Andrew Everard"]
I'm so glad you put that '(HiFi)' qualifier in there, fasteddie
[/quote]I may not have been on the forum long, but i think i know how in the gutter peoples minds are!
I'm so glad you put that '(HiFi)' qualifier in there, fasteddie
[/quote]I may not have been on the forum long, but i think i know how in the gutter peoples minds are!
Julian Stevens
Well-known member
I've used Mana racks for many years (a pair with custom dimensions that were built specially for me) but they're certainly no panacea for all ills.
1. They're devils to set up.
2. Each tier (at least on mine) doesn't give exactly consistent spirit level readings (so you have to choose an average of all of them).
3. Heavy components (such as hefty power amp's and turntables) kill what they can do (two friends have independently confirmed this finding).
4. Some components (notably my Bryston amplifiers, particularly the pre-amp) sound harsh and steely if sited on glass, as a result of which I now use 18mm birchwood ply with much better results in all areas.
My advice ~ try before you buy, whatever brand you're investigating. It's a time consuming business but the alternative is to buy a rack that doesn't deliver what you're looking for and may make your system sound worse.
1. They're devils to set up.
2. Each tier (at least on mine) doesn't give exactly consistent spirit level readings (so you have to choose an average of all of them).
3. Heavy components (such as hefty power amp's and turntables) kill what they can do (two friends have independently confirmed this finding).
4. Some components (notably my Bryston amplifiers, particularly the pre-amp) sound harsh and steely if sited on glass, as a result of which I now use 18mm birchwood ply with much better results in all areas.
My advice ~ try before you buy, whatever brand you're investigating. It's a time consuming business but the alternative is to buy a rack that doesn't deliver what you're looking for and may make your system sound worse.
Electro
Well-known member
Julian Stevens said:
Hi Julian and welcome , nice to see you here :wave:
I use 2 x Clearlight Audio RDC Aspekt 4 tier racks , they are strong and look nice and they certainly do no harm to the systems sound quality .
I bought both second hand for a very good price but I would have to think long and hard before paying the new price !
Andy Kerr said:
Can't quite remember the last time I read such tosh. This is the stuff we were fed for years by the mags - back in the days before the internet when we had to take this carp as fact by the 'experts'.
Thankfully *most* of us have been able to get a clue since.
Andy Kerr said:
how does that work then? Given HDD manufacturers themselves state that the Drives can pretty much be mounted at any angle. It's just so long as they are not moved during operation, and by that I don't mean vibrations, I mean physically moved....
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