If you are fussy and know exactly what you like, it can be difficult finding it....and you've tried harder than most.
I wouldn't give up until you've tried a mains cable, and some Black Ravioli (I've had good results from Clearer Audio and Darren could be worth a call)
http://www.cleareraudio.com/
Is there anything about your room acoustics that isn't helping - do you have a suspended wooden floor?
I wouldn't give up until you've tried a mains cable, and some Black Ravioli (I've had good results from Clearer Audio and Darren could be worth a call)
http://www.cleareraudio.com/
Is there anything about your room acoustics that isn't helping - do you have a suspended wooden floor?
Macspur said:
Well thats great news, you can decide for yourself
Seriously, if its there why not try it?
Macspur said:
Hi Mac, apologies, I had forgotten
Tonally very similar to the 40s, ie neutral, although with your change of source and flexibility as to preamp I wonder whether you might be able to get what you want with them. They are very revealing of upstream components, and personally I prefer this approach to trying to use cables as tone controls. You could use a valve pre amp and not have the difficulties / limitations of needing very sensitive speakers.This would involve some rather major changes but if you could get a demo of valve pre + ATC actives it might be worth it just to see what you think.
Cheers,
Ben
CnoEvil said:
I won't pretend my room is ideal and yes it does have a laminet flooring over floorboards, but since moving my set up away from the wall and up against the large window with blinds, base isn't really an issue like before.
I will ask Audio Destination if they've got any AQ power chords and Black Ravioli for me to try.
Cheers
Mac
Macspur said:
Heyho, its a shame you arnt close by, never mind.
Out of interest who is the mastersound/leben dealer you are liasing with ?.
When on to Audio Destination, see what other power cords they would recommend as well.
Do you have any isolation between the speakers and the stands, or the stands and the floor; and are your stands hollow metal or part filled with sand?
If the speakers sit on hollow stands which are directly connected to the floor, the vibrations will be channelled directly into the floor (and the stands themselves will ring), which can effect the areas that you're talking about.
Something as simple as granite worktop savers under the stands can help.
This is an area I have had to grapple with as well.
Do you have any isolation between the speakers and the stands, or the stands and the floor; and are your stands hollow metal or part filled with sand?
If the speakers sit on hollow stands which are directly connected to the floor, the vibrations will be channelled directly into the floor (and the stands themselves will ring), which can effect the areas that you're talking about.
Something as simple as granite worktop savers under the stands can help.
This is an area I have had to grapple with as well.
Given the results you are getting from the amps and Tellurium Q, there is a reasonable chance that the problem lies somewhere with the relationship between your speakers, the stands and the floor.
Are the stands and its (solid) legs made of metal, and if so, are the speakers sitting directly on the metal with nothing in between?
Sorry for all the questions, but this could be causing the slight problem.
Are the stands and its (solid) legs made of metal, and if so, are the speakers sitting directly on the metal with nothing in between?
Sorry for all the questions, but this could be causing the slight problem.
Macspur said:
Re Power cords.....I'm not sure on this one. Can you get one of each, provided you can return them (if you have to choose, I'd go Kimber).
Re Stands
If there is something going on here, it will be skewing all the tests you are doing.
There are no hard and fast rules, and experimentation is the key. Are you sure the legs of the metal stand aren't hollow, because if they are solid, I've never seen this before.
When you have a suspended wooden floor, the last thing you want is the vibrations being transmitted into it. The Blu-tac on top will certainly help, but the ideal is to dissipate unwanted vibrations into the stand itself, and then isolate the stand from the floor.
The spikes on the bottom of the stand actually act as a coupling device, rather than a de-coupling one.....which means that a simple granite worktop saver for about £10 each, can help if placed under each stand (use the spikes/spike shoes).
I would double check if the legs are actually solid. If they are not, 1/2 to 3/4 filling them with kiln dry sand or kitty litter acts as an acoustic sink, and stops the ringing of a hollow metal tube effecting the sound. It also adds mass to the stands, which can help as well.
Quite a lot of Harbeth owners use solid wooden stands to avoid some of these problems.....do you have a couple off solidly made stools or small side-tables that you could try this. Though it's worth noting that Blu-tac on wood may not be a good idea, as solid wooden or carbon discs are better.
As you can see it's a bit of a minefield, but getting this side of things right can have more effect than any other tweak you can make.
What are the stands, as someone on here might know if it's possible to mass-load them?
I also know that Harbeth owners have had success placing Black Ravioli pads between speaker and stand, but this is quite expensive and a last resort. Track Audio do isolating spikes....again expensive and a last resort.
I also know that Harbeth owners have had success placing Black Ravioli pads between speaker and stand, but this is quite expensive and a last resort. Track Audio do isolating spikes....again expensive and a last resort.
From the Harbeth site:
Harbeth speakers are at their best when used in "free-field" conditions. This implies that the speakers are raised off the floor and as far as possible away from adjacent surfaces on stands made from rigid and non-resonant material, including wood, sand filled steel or polymers. If you have childen or animals at home be sure to put safety first as our speakers are heavy. The top plate of the stands should be adaquately large and the stands themselves solid and stable to prevent the speakers from toppling over and causing injury or damage.
The cabinet may be attached to the stands top plate with a small pea sized ball of BlueTak, cork or rubber cushioning dots, cones or spikes. Note: only use the absolute minimum amount of BlueTak as it will permanently bond to the veneer and connot be removed. Speaker stands are usualyy fitted with sharp spiked feet that further improve stability.
Ideally the stands should place the tweeter approximately level with your ear when seated in your usual listening chair - the so called reference axis where the frequency response is optimised. Tall stands lift the speaker further away from the floor which adjusts the bass quality but there is always a compromise between the cosmetics of tall stands, ideal listening height and stability.
Although trhe reference listening axis is directly facing the front baffle, some users prefur both speakers toed in towards the listening seat by 1-15˚. Adjusting the toe alters the balance especially between the mid and high frequencies in your room according to your preference.
Harbeth speakers are at their best when used in "free-field" conditions. This implies that the speakers are raised off the floor and as far as possible away from adjacent surfaces on stands made from rigid and non-resonant material, including wood, sand filled steel or polymers. If you have childen or animals at home be sure to put safety first as our speakers are heavy. The top plate of the stands should be adaquately large and the stands themselves solid and stable to prevent the speakers from toppling over and causing injury or damage.
The cabinet may be attached to the stands top plate with a small pea sized ball of BlueTak, cork or rubber cushioning dots, cones or spikes. Note: only use the absolute minimum amount of BlueTak as it will permanently bond to the veneer and connot be removed. Speaker stands are usualyy fitted with sharp spiked feet that further improve stability.
Ideally the stands should place the tweeter approximately level with your ear when seated in your usual listening chair - the so called reference axis where the frequency response is optimised. Tall stands lift the speaker further away from the floor which adjusts the bass quality but there is always a compromise between the cosmetics of tall stands, ideal listening height and stability.
Although trhe reference listening axis is directly facing the front baffle, some users prefur both speakers toed in towards the listening seat by 1-15˚. Adjusting the toe alters the balance especially between the mid and high frequencies in your room according to your preference.
You could say so,lol . Paul knows his stuff Mac. Remember he is trying to work out what you are after sound wise via a telephone call.
I doubt very much that he will not be too far out by suggesting that you try the mastersound . Im guessing that he has offered to ship one down to you for a taste ?. If so i suggest that you take up the offer. Nowt ventured nowt gained.
Ignore all the 'low powered clap trap' regarding valve amps thats bounced around on here.
. Paul knows his stuff Mac. Remember he is trying to work out what you are after sound wise via a telephone call.I doubt very much that he will not be too far out by suggesting that you try the mastersound . Im guessing that he has offered to ship one down to you for a taste ?. If so i suggest that you take up the offer. Nowt ventured nowt gained.
Ignore all the 'low powered clap trap' regarding valve amps thats bounced around on here.
floyd droid said:You could say so,lol
I doubt very much that he will not be too far out by suggesting that you try the mastersound . Im guessing that he has offered to ship one down to you for a taste ?. If so i suggest that you take up the offer. Nowt ventured nowt gained.
Ignore all the 'low powered clap trap' regarding valve amps thats bounced around on here.
Great suggestion...my Jadis is "only" 35W but it drives my RX6 and the Sonus Faber Guarneri Memento easily...
floyd droid said:You could say so,lol
I doubt very much that he will not be too far out by suggesting that you try the mastersound . Im guessing that he has offered to ship one down to you for a taste ?. If so i suggest that you take up the offer. Nowt ventured nowt gained.
Ignore all the 'low powered clap trap' regarding valve amps thats bounced around on here.
Yes he has, a choice between the Compact 845 and another which I can't remember that has auto bias.
As for low power, my Sugden only runs at about 30 watts and is quite sufficient for the SHL5's.
Cheers
Mac
Macspur said:
Make sure it's kiln dried, otherwise it will rust your stands from the inside. Also, a plastic funnel and some kind of trowel, will help cut down the mess.
Fill them half way up and try it, as it's easier to put more in than remove!
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