Trying to get my room out of the way

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newlash09

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The above is a graph after Dirac equalisation, from an online review. Orange is the target curve, Green is after EQ, and light blue is before EQ. I dont know much about all these graphs, except that the closer the green line is to the orange line, the better it is. And in this curve, it almost looks to be within +/- 3db from the target curve. Since my marantz SR6011 does not show me my corrected EQ , i dont know how effective the marantz has been in reaching the target curve in my system. If i know that, then i know wether DIRAC will stand a chance of suceeding where Audessey failed.

.
 

luckylion100

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newlash09 said:
The above is a graph after Dirac equalisation, from an online review. Orange is the target curve, Green is after EQ, and light blue is before EQ. I dont know much about all these graphs, except that the closer the green line is to the orange line, the better it is. And in this curve, it almost looks to be within +/- 3db from the target curve. Since my marantz SR6011 does not show me my corrected EQ , i dont know how effective the marantz has been in reaching the target curve in my system. If i know that, then i know wether DIRAC will stand a chance of suceeding where Audessey failed.

.

is to purchase a Minidsp Umik-1 and give the Dirac two week trial a whirl... if you don't like I'm sure you'd have no problem off loading the Umik-1... and you'll be one step closer to understanding your room issues.
 

newlash09

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insider9 said:
Worth looking at Behringer A500. At £160 it's a rather good value. Can get even better bargains going through ebay.

Thanks for the suggestion.
regular_smile.gif
​. Have been hearing about these poweramps for sometime now. Even Vladimir has been recommending them. Iam still waiting for a response from MiniDSP regarding the total configuration of components that I need, to workout the final cost. A preliminary estimate is working out to a heady 3100$. So, might actually dump the parasound Halo A23 and go for the Behringer.

Bluesound node 2 (500$) > DDRC-22D (800$) > Audiolab M-Dac (800$) > Parasound Halo A23(1000$) > Concept 40 speakers or new book shelf speakers.

Iam not awash with funds right now. Will take me atleast 2 years to buy everything with out my wife knowing the financial impact*mosking*.

""""The biggest challenge of all is to be sold on this single idea for the next 2 years""""".
 

ellisdj

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Is this more like it? 25 x 11 x 9. Seating 10 feet from front wall - speaker 1 feet and 3 feet in. I assume you sit in the middle of the speakers?

guess%202_zps11oyfunq.jpg


This is best guestimate - you have 3 big peaks 20db peaks in your bass - thats possibly the cause.

One Monster at 50hz the swomper / ringer - feel that one on your ears I think. However what you need is a look at your rooms RT60 and Waterfall - these are in REW.

If you get a UMIK1 you are setup for dirac - however you need to be aware of the rooms RT60 - if thats too high 0.7 or more then sound is lingering way too long. And bass we need to look and how long thats lingering with a waterfall - ideally want it gone in 500ms or less.

This is all gobyldigoop atm but its fundamentals - your room sounds like an extreme challenge you might need to take on in another fashion.

Dirac aside forget the boxes - spend the money on the room.
 

newlash09

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[/quote]

is to purchase a Minidsp Umik-1 and give the Dirac two week trial a whirl... if you don't like I'm sure you'd have no problem off loading the Umik-1... and you'll be one step closer to understanding your room issues.

[/quote]

Thanks. That seems to be the best way forward, If i can get to try out the full works DIRAC in my room for two weeks. It would save another wad of Benjamin franklins being wasted in curtailing the boom.
 

newlash09

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ellisdj said:
Is this more like it? 25 x 11 x 9. Seating 10 feet from front wall - speaker 1 feet and 3 feet in. I assume you sit in the middle of the speakers?

This is best guestimate - you have 3 big peaks 20db peaks in your bass - thats possibly the cause.

One Monster at 50hz the swomper / ringer - feel that one on your ears I think. However what you need is a look at your rooms RT60 and Waterfall - these are in REW.

If you get a UMIK1 you are setup for dirac - however you need to be aware of the rooms RT60 - if thats too high 0.7 or more then sound is lingering way too long. And bass we need to look and how long thats lingering with a waterfall - ideally want it gone in 500ms or less.

This is all gobyldigoop atm but its fundamentals - your room sounds like an extreme challenge you might need to take on in another fashion.

Dirac aside forget the boxes - spend the money on the room.

Wow... thanks a ton. That was really very kind. I can certainly feel that massive boom pressurising my ear drums. It will take me some more reading on the internet to understand about 'RT-60". But I do understand that reflected sound has to reach my ears within 0.7ms ideally.

​ So, would you advise me to forget bi-amping and introducing active crossovers, and concentrate on starting first with the DDRC-22D.
 

macdiddy

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you say that the distance between your front left concept 40 and the wall is one foot, just wondering if as stated in the owners manual you have tried the minimum distance of 50cm, if not then try it, if it doesnt work then it hasn't cost anything.

*music2*
 

newlash09

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lindsayt said:
Do you really need 250 watt amplifiers? Are they genuine 250 watts continuous into 8 ohms? Or is the 250 watt rating mostly down to the manufacturer pushing the marketing envelope (EG 125 watts per channel peak into 4 ohms for a stereo amp marketing nonsense)?

If I wanted a load of power amplifiers for an active project I'd get a stack of Urei 6230's at c$150 each. Or maybe a load of ebayed used Japanese amps at $20 each? What amplifiers were you thinking of buying? $1400 for the amplification seems like far too much money for this project.

Hi Lindsayt. These were the amps i was planning on getting. https://www.minidsp.com/products/plate-amplifiers/pwr-ice125wd

175$ per amp without DSP. So total cost for amplication will be 700$ for 4 channels.
 

newlash09

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macdiddy said:
you say that the distance between your front left concept 40 and the wall is one foot, just wondering if as stated in the owners manual you have tried the minimum distance of 50cm, if not then try it, if it doesnt work then it hasn't cost anything.

*music2*

I remember trying that too, cause my wife was very upset with the speaker being bang in front center of the tv. But it did'nt help much both for the sound and marital bliss.*biggrin*
 

ellisdj

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Newlash. With a quick mess about about the best I could get is you bringing the speakers 5 feet into the room.

Then you sitting where you are. Moving the speakers about up the current end didnt really make much difference.

With the speakers where they are moving the seat around didnt make that much difference.

0.7ms is a measurement of RT60. Its how long a sound takes to decay 60db. Time until its inaudible. Think sounds are constantly coming you want them decaying quickly so they dont mask the next sound and so on.
 

ellisdj

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macdiddy said:
definitely says 80cm to me.

*mail1*

DOH!!! Sorry - results are still very similar. At 5 feet from the front wall the 50hz is down considerable amount but at 112hz its big - that will sound throaty and proper punchy lol 20odd db approx boost at 112 hz

Thats still with a 15db boost at 50hz and 70hz - the other snag as I argued earlier - all the other bass is really lean. Problem you have there is you want to turn up the volume to get the bass pressure in that big room and you cant because of the peaks

Thats a challenging space to work in - again this is only a best guestimate
 

lindsayt

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newlash09 said:
lindsayt said:
Do you really need 250 watt amplifiers? Are they genuine 250 watts continuous into 8 ohms? Or is the 250 watt rating mostly down to the manufacturer pushing the marketing envelope (EG 125 watts per channel peak into 4 ohms for a stereo amp marketing nonsense)?

If I wanted a load of power amplifiers for an active project I'd get a stack of Urei 6230's at c$150 each. Or maybe a load of ebayed used Japanese amps at $20 each? What amplifiers were you thinking of buying? $1400 for the amplification seems like far too much money for this project.

Hi Lindsayt. These were the amps i was planning on getting. https://www.minidsp.com/products/plate-amplifiers/pwr-ice125wd

175$ per amp without DSP. So total cost for amplication will be 700$ for 4 channels.
I think you'd get better amplifiers for less money by going down the used ebay route. But then amplification isn't your big issue, it's the room and speakers that are.

newlash, it seems bonkers to me that you are thinking of spending $3000 in order to try to get the best out of $1400 speakers! Tail wagging the dog.

I've never had badly echoey room problems at home. I've only ever had room problems in unfurnished hotel rooms. Is your room relatively unfurnished?
 

Vladimir

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I was about to suggest few bass traps and panels, but you mentioned the WAF is pretty bad. Just pulling out speakers few inches got you in trouble.

true-vibration.jpg


If you wish to try a pair of bookshelf speakers without selling your QAs, the most painless solution I can think of is ordering a pair of JBL LSR305 active speakers from Amazon, testing and returning them for a refund. I think you will be pleased with the results.
 

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