Finding my home cinema sound lacking

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jonathanRD

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Hi Nugget - long time no speak. I've been following your recent threads and whilst I'm no expert I was trying to figure out why you continue to have issues (you are a hard nut to crack *smile* ). I actually agree with millennia_one in that your first-floor flat (carpet over floorboards) might be absorbing some of the impact of your sub and maybe you have very high expectations.

Maybe this is a daft suggestion - but can you take your setup to a relative or friend's house - who has a ground floor room (maybe concrete floor), to see if there is any significant difference?
 

michael hoy

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jonathanRD said:
Hi Nugget - long time no speak. I've been following your recent threads and whilst I'm no expert I was trying to figure out why you continue to have issues (you are a hard nut to crack *smile* ). I actually agree with millennia_one in that your first-floor flat (carpet over floorboards) might be absorbing some of the impact of your sub and maybe you have very high expectations.

Maybe this is a daft suggestion - but can you take your setup to a relative or friend's house - who has a ground floor room (maybe concrete floor), to see if there is any significant difference?

My floor is a hollow wood floor with thick carpet and it is not a problem for me.

I used to have the sub on a granite chopping board but now have it on some of these Seismic Isolation bars to isolate the sub from the floor and they work very well for me.

Not saying you need them. The point is none of this has reduced my bass.

Mine is behind the settee.

4915543423_cb45a3ab9f_z.jpg


Before the Seismic bars.

4915544339_fddb0309ba_z.jpg
 
D

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It really depends on the quality of the floor boards , underlay and carpets..... being in a flat could! could! also mean has a lot of stud partitions which will not help the situation. All it will do is absorb. Also im not really too sure if its open plan or not? i think its a long L and i think the mains are at the wrong end of the L (as far as i can remember)

I dont think its the sub so much as the strong midrange is missing, which alot of people have problems with. Nugget is relying to heavily on EQ before setting up the basic lay out correctly. But that is my observation from nuggets various posts.

Like your's Michael your Apex's are layed in a stand 5.1 square/rectangle with 20-45 degree toe in on the rears. Though one could argue that they are very close to your ears when sitting eaither side of the sofa. (Nothing wrong with that mine was setup like that for longest time before i moved it all up stairs but for the purpose of pointing out flaws so nugget understands the basics)

Its all very reginmented but nuggets system has a very tight restraint upfront. So the sound system is buddled into one corner not allowing for beathing space for the speakers thus restricting the sound and in my experiance the mid range.

But thats all i can remember from his last set of pics.
 

nugget2014

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michael hoy said:
nugget2014 said:

Thanks for the images.

Is the sub using spiked feet or rubber?

My sub is the Monitor Audio AW12.

neither. the sub is on its own dedicated plinth though (didnt come with rubber feet i think only spikes) and didnt use for multiple reasons. have you seen my subwoofer before? it tends to not be very widely known. if you google dali ikon sub mk2 you can see its dedicated plinth. would that mean an isolation pad such as the auralex subdude wouldnt be as effective to use? and the port is down firing..
 

nugget2014

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i really dont know what to do. the antimode is £235 or i could go with auralex subdude-HT which would be £70 total. but that doesnt help as much as the antimode from what i see people post. and with the plinth already on my subwoofer would it really help? for now i'll wait and think..does any1 have experience with both the subdude and antimode and have any comparisons?
 
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nugget2014 said:
i really dont know what to do. the antimode is £235 or i could go with auralex subdude-HT which would be £70 total. but that doesnt help as much as the antimode from what i see people post. and with the plinth already on my subwoofer would it really help? for now i'll wait and think..does any1 have experience with both the subdude and antimode and have any comparisons?

Dont throw any more money at till you narrow down what the problem is. An antimode will only sort peaks not dips. You need to first widen you sound stage and get you mains out of the corner! Turn off the eq and see if there is a lift in the sound. Your amp could be over compensating for something. Down load some Guids from Dolby on how to lay the system. The sub could very well be the problem but why spend money when what I and others have said is free.

Could you take some pictures of the setup screen for you amp. Eg the crossovers and distance part. Can you take a pics of the rear of your subwoofer as well please. I would like to see where your dials are at.

Im wondering if you have added a double crossover?
 

nugget2014

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millennia_one said:
nugget2014 said:
i really dont know what to do. the antimode is £235 or i could go with auralex subdude-HT which would be £70 total. but that doesnt help as much as the antimode from what i see people post. and with the plinth already on my subwoofer would it really help? for now i'll wait and think..does any1 have experience with both the subdude and antimode and have any comparisons?

Dont throw any more money at till you narrow down what the problem is. An antimode will only sort peaks not dips. You need to first widen you sound stage and get you mains out of the corner! Turn off the eq and see if there is a lift in the sound. Your amp could be over compensating for something. Down load some Guids from Dolby on how to lay the system. The sub could very well be the problem but why spend money when what I and others have said is free.

Could you take some pictures of the setup screen for you amp. Eg the crossovers and distance part. Can you take a pics of the rear of your subwoofer as well please. I would like to see where your dials are at.

Im wondering if you have added a double crossover?

will do later
 

nugget2014

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here's the album with pictures of my menu settings, and the back of the sub. i have also swapped the chair and the sub around as can see in the picture. will reclibrate tomorrow and see if it still sounds as good.

http://imgur.com/a/RXGqr
 

Frank Harvey

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ellisdj said:
There is no problem running a system with a higher crossover and using the subs for bass in terms of sound quality - sub quality factored in. This is different to old fashioned thinking of it must be 80hz xover but that does not mean it doesnt work really well.
There's nothing old fashioned about it, so please don't be conned into thinking that there's radical new ways to reproduce home theatre audio, because there isn't - a sub/sat system is a sub/system, regardless of the crossover point used. 80Hz is suggested as a good starting point for most people, suiting a wide range of speakers. It is a point that is generally used by THX, and for good reason. Of course, not all systems are based around sub/sat design, so the crossover point should always be experimented with to see what works best.

To run higher crossovers on subs, two subs are needed rather than one (and you will have to EQ them). You'll have to keep them symmetrical in the room to maintain some sort of sense of decent imaging (although this can only work at the sweet spot). This takes this sort of approach out of the reach of the majority, especially when you have to factor in the quality of the subs needed to pull it off. Of course, the further away the subs are from the main left and right speaker's mid/bass driver, the more it will "smear" the image. There's a lot of variables at play though, so various aspects need to be taken into account when deciding to take the high crossover route. Ideally, you want all frequencies coming from a single point, which again an impossibility for most, so the second best thing is to get as msuch of the frequency range coming from the same point.

The best approach is to measure the response of your room, and see where the main speaker's response start to tail off.
 

nugget2014

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the sub sounds a tiny bit better (i think!!) when swapped places with the chair. will try it the original 2 places i first had it over the weekend (as calibration ran perfect this time with the new mic sent by richer sounds) and come to a final conclusion on which placement is best.
 

ellisdj

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Hi David - I certianly dont think its radical (we both know where this info has come from) - but the 80hz crossover is a number I feel is imprinted on the minds and people are scared to go above it as they dont know / understand the merits or probably even what is it is / does so they stick to that number to play safe - I have been there and done that so its not meant as an insult to anyone who does it

I ran 100hz crossover for about 18 months up tp recently from a single sub so already knew that was better than 80hz in my room.

After hearing other systems working with higher crossovers 250hz for example - there is potential merit in it. I could also instantly hear where my system was lacking compared to these systems and its was the upper bass region - there is tons of detail here and from a sub this bass has a lot of impact and fullness whihc really adds to these movie effects - from my speakers it has never been there in this quantity or even quality. This is likely a region most home AV systems are lacking and its noticeable if you hear other syetems such as PA which is why I suggested this route to the op - because this sounded like it was the case for him - loads of rumble but lacking bass.....? sub turned up high but still lacking bass

Early av receivers I had were trying to setup my systems with 120 or 140hz crossovers but I always thought I have speakers than can do 50hz so 80 hz is best - that was just plain wrong, but I didnt know any different

Speaker size is irrelevant its freq response in that region thats more important. Placing speakers in the best spot for imaging is rarely the best spot for bass and I have tried all manner of kit costing a lot!! room treatments etc and have never been able to get that bass in balance. A higher crossover does work for this - I know there are other issues but it does work.
 

Frank Harvey

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ellisdj said:
Hi David - I certianly dont think its radical (we both know where this info has come from) - but the 80hz crossover is a number I feel is imprinted on the minds and people are scared to go above it as they dont know / understand the merits or probably even what is it is / does so they stick to that number to play safe - I have been there and done that so its not meant as an insult to anyone who does it
80Hz has always been adopted as a "standard" due to THX's adoption, and regardless of anyone's idea of THX's relevancy in today's market, this was something THX decided on to reduce a multitude of sins in varying rooms. The ideal crossover point for any given system in any given room depends on many factors. Smaller speaker systems like KEF's E305 or B&W's MT packages run fine at 80Hz, but gains can be had setting higher, generally between 100-150Hz as a guideline. Larger speakers are more capable, and don't need this higher crossover point, although performance between various speakers in any given frequency range vary, particularly midrange.

I'm just dubious of the intention of the source, as higher crossover points have been promoted for many years, but the aspect of mid detail was never mentioned - only the benefits of playing louder with more headroom. Making yourself stand out from the rest in what you provide, or how you do things seems to be the name of the game recently, regardless of whether there are clear benefits or not. A bit of spin can usually create those benefits.

Also, presenting the end user with a system that works extremely well in a purpose built room is fine as it will wow some people, but for a meaningful comparison with your own system, you have to make sure you're getting the best out of it - which the majority of people out there won't be. Much of the time, some attention paid to your own system can pay big dividends (not necessarily referring to yourself of course, as I presume you've done your homework).

I ran 100hz crossover for about 18 months up tp recently from a single sub so already knew that was better than 80hz in my room.
Ive been running 80Hz for years, varying it by 10Hz or so depending on the speaker package I'd been using at the time. Using the Ken Kreisel Quattros, I discovered their performance at the lower end of their frequency range was better than other similar style satellites, so I experimented with lowering the crossover to 70Hz and 60Hz. Both seem to work better than 80Hz for me, particularly 60Hz, but I think that is because I have a couple of peaks either side of a 50Hz null in my room, and using the smaller mid/bass drivers of my satellites seems to reduce those peaks, in stark comparison to the peaks produced by 4x 12" sub bass drivers. And that's the key - for higher crossovers to work well, EQ is a necessity, as the in-room peaks produced by subs need to be tamed to prevent them becoming a major issue. There are pros and cons to room EQ, and it isn't something I use myself, although I will experiment with DIRAC at some points no the near future, but I'll be EQing as small a frequency range as possible.

After hearing other systems working with higher crossovers 250hz for example - there is potential merit in it. I could also instantly hear where my system was lacking compared to these systems and its was the upper bass region - there is tons of detail here and from a sub this bass has a lot of impact and fullness whihc really adds to these movie effects - from my speakers it has never been there in this quantity or even quality.
I agree there is merit in it, but as I say, for it work properly, EQ is a necessity, as is a second subwoofer - that might be fine for some people, but for many, they're barely getting away with having 5.1 in their living room nowadays!

We all hear different speakers every now and again that sound different to our own, and there will always be slight differences, some you'll like, some you won't. What you heard was also being demonstrated in purpose built rooms, not the average living room. Regardless of how much this aspect is played down, it does help.

Early av receivers I had were trying to setup my systems with 120 or 140hz crossovers but I always thought I have speakers than can do 50hz so 80 hz is best - that was just plain wrong, but I didnt know any different
It's not necessarily "plain wrong". Many people with larger speakers want to get as much benefit out of them as possible, so will use low crossover points. How good the speakers sound with these crossover points really depends on many things.

Speaker size is irrelevant its freq response in that region thats more important. Placing speakers in the best spot for imaging is rarely the best spot for bass and I have tried all manner of kit costing a lot!! room treatments etc and have never been able to get that bass in balance. A higher crossover does work for this - I know there are other issues but it does work.
I agree speaker size is irrelevant, as it is more down to the speaker's capabilities. That is one reason why I'm currently using my Quattros at 70Hz - they can do it, it sounds better, and it seems to have improved my soundstage in that it seems more detailed and three dimensional. There's a surprising amount of directional information above 50/60Hz, and it does play a big part in where we perceive sounds to come from (this is why two subs have to be used). This can easily be demonstrated with 'apparent point source' loudspeakers like KEF's Blade - they sound quite different to anything else, and other than quality, that can only be down to one thing - perceiving that all frequencies are coming from a single point at each speaker.

Bass is the hardest thing to get right. And for that reason, I agree that EQ is a good thing, but it isn't necessarily the best thing for more directional frequencies, which I'd rather look into room treatment for.
 

ellisdj

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I have already pretty much maxed out my room treatments - I have gone to town far more than most ever would in this regard.

However depsite that and having speakers easily capable of 50hz and amplification more than good enough to drive them I have still found benefit running dual subs at a higher crossover such as 150hz.

This has helped fill in a big gap in the presentation - that was very evident once you hear it filled - I have not exhaustively tested for music yet due to time constraints but for movies I am sure its worked a treat. I was tempted to try higher still but 150hz is the max for my meridian processor

This is not blind luck either, I have measured my speaker and sub resposnes, I do all my own bass eq - I dont rely on any auto setups. at a lower crossover I have sound missing, this is measurable - with the higher crossover the gap is filled and not with any boosting eq - just with overall ouput from the subs, good integration in terms of phase (could be improved a bit) - then eq to reduce what you dont want. / whats not supposed to be there.

Its not perfect, not sure it ever will be - but its clearly better than before. This can and does work well and as a tactic to improve bass reponse, power etc in a room.

Having 2 sub is not always easy - but if this is the problem someone has in their room - chucking tons of money at better speakers, kit, cables, isolation even room treatments wont guarentee to fix it, it didnt for me and I tried hard. Not saying what I did was perfect in terms of trials but that is my experience of it
 

nugget2014

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Tried different crossovers, 100 and up to 150hz and tell no reasonable difference so bumped it up from the usual 80 to 100hz. See if sounds different over the next weeks coming up. I also tried the sub in 2 other places in the room and auto calibrating each time. Sound is awful. Tried at the front next to my right speaker and in front of my left speaker. Both placements provided a big null in the middle of the room and I slowly could hear the bass less and less the more I walked to the listening position. So the only place I can have it is where it is now swapped with chair in that corner. Thanks for all he help and suggestions :p
 

ellisdj

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I suggest giving it a bit more of a chance than that - however you are right 50 more hz is the grander scheme of there being about 10000 thats audible puts it into perspective.

The latest transformers is good for testing the xover and how much it effects the bass - in the bit where the ship sucks up everything with the magnet.

You should get a fast pulsing / vibrating bass effect that sounds like what I can only imagine a huge magnet to sound like - like a huge MRI Scanner but deeeep. Not rumble or solid sound - but a fast pulsing sound

This starts deep then gradually increases in freq / rises in the soundstage to be about just over half way up the room before it stops and thens stuff drops down. I think the rising is to eminate stuff being sucked up

Its an incredible sound effect - I wonder how accurate it is what I am getting for this scene.

for me with 100hz crossover that effect would stop early - not at 150 it extends higher up in the sound stage with the same intensity / sound character. I dont know if any higher would be better still?
 

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