I've read about the benefits of adding a sub for music (not really interested in home theatre tbh) but up until recently had been skeptical. However, I know they can be small and discreet and still make quite a difference. What are people's thoughts bearing in mind I have an amp with no sub out (but it does have 2 pairs of speaker binding posts)? Thinking about something like Rel t5i (budget £350 ish).
Adding a subwoofer to two channel music system
- Thread starter robdmarsh
- Start date
Fidelity dom
Well-known member
Adding a subwoofer for me has been one of the greatest sound improvements, unless you have full range speakers a good sub will take the sound down to 20 htz. I held off myself due to concerns regarding integration & positioning. However I’ve really found that it adds a foundation to the sound, just making everything sound fuller with an expanded sound stage.
Depending on the make / model of sub you can always use a high level connection directly off the amps speaker terminals as recommended by REL or if the amp has a pre out use the low level connection using an appropriate length interconnect.
Worth thinking about what type of floor you might consider using the REL t5i with as it is down firing modal, which whilst rel claims that this boosts base relative to the size of the woofer may not be so suited to a suspended floor. Iam using SVS sb 1000 subs which have been great to my ears.
Depending on the make / model of sub you can always use a high level connection directly off the amps speaker terminals as recommended by REL or if the amp has a pre out use the low level connection using an appropriate length interconnect.
Worth thinking about what type of floor you might consider using the REL t5i with as it is down firing modal, which whilst rel claims that this boosts base relative to the size of the woofer may not be so suited to a suspended floor. Iam using SVS sb 1000 subs which have been great to my ears.
Thanks for your reply. First of all, my amp has no pre out or sub out but 2 sets of speaker terminals. I know REL suggest the best result is to use the same speaker terminals as for your main set of speakers but why not use the 2nd set of binding posts? Surely it would be easier to fit? Secondly, regarding your comments, I have a little piece of tiled floor in front of what was an old fire-place and I'm thinking this would be a good location for a sub.
Can I ask which model of sub you have? Doh! I've just seen this in your post... Cheers
Fidelity dom
Well-known member
Yeah I think if you use the same set of terminals then you could simply use spades (subwoofer) with one set of cables & banana plugs (speakers)with the other. Not sure if using a different set of terminals could introduce timing issues, hence the recommendation by REL to use the same set.
If you have a solid floor then down firing should not be an issue, positioning will depend on the room & your ears. SVS have lots of useful info on positioning of subs on there website, which is well worth a look. I’ve found my SVS subs great value but have friends who equally love there RELs, don’t think you’d go far wrong with either brand.
If you have a solid floor then down firing should not be an issue, positioning will depend on the room & your ears. SVS have lots of useful info on positioning of subs on there website, which is well worth a look. I’ve found my SVS subs great value but have friends who equally love there RELs, don’t think you’d go far wrong with either brand.
SteveR750
Well-known member
FWIW, a sub was a huge improvement to my 2.1 sonos sysyem when I had it, but the difficult part of integration is done automatically by sonos. I have had a REL previously that was a nightmare to set up correctly. I'm toying with the idea of adding a wharfedale Sw150 to my system. I don't want a ton of extra grunt, just a bit of flat extension to about 40Hz is enough in my room.
Al ears
Well-known member
A lot of amps may struggle to drive both speaker outputs at the same time. Connect sub to same terminals as main speakers.Thanks for your reply. First of all, my amp has no pre out or sub out but 2 sets of speaker terminals. I know REL suggest the best result is to use the same speaker terminals as for your main set of speakers but why not use the 2nd set of binding posts? Surely it would be easier to fit? Secondly, regarding your comments, I have a little piece of tiled floor in front of what was an old fire-place and I'm thinking this would be a good location for a sub.
Can I ask which model of sub you have? Doh! I've just seen this in your post... Cheers
skinnypuppy71
Well-known member
Yes this is what I was thinking. Surely the amp in the sub is doing the work so connecting to a second set of binding posts shouldn't be a problem and should help with ease of set up.
skinnypuppy71
Well-known member
If you buy a rel sub, use the provided rel high level cable, it's well explained in the instructions how to install it and works a treat....oh and btw class d amps require a different approach.
Last edited:
Al ears
Well-known member
just with some amps it's speakers A or B but not both at once.
Al ears
Well-known member
How do they require a different approach? Surely they are simply outputting a signal like any other? Or have I missed something?
skinnypuppy71
Well-known member
You can't use rel's own high level cable with a class d amplifier....probably something to do with the rel subwoofer's themselves being a class d design.
Fidelity dom
Well-known member
Yeah I have a class d Primare i22, can’t use the high level & have to use the pre out as recommended by manufacturer.
Fidelity dom
Well-known member
I believe it is to do with how class d handles the signal, tech support from primare attempted to explain it to me but lost me halfway through the first sentence so I took there word for it…..🤣. I think it’s only the HT series of REL subs that use class d, the t series use AB.
Al ears
Well-known member
The class D amp or whatever is simply outputting a voltage to the speaker terminals???
Fidelity dom
Well-known member
They tried to explain but if iam honest it went completely over my head, but high level connection will not work with primare class D.
skinnypuppy71
Well-known member
You need to ask Rel about this one Al, it's beyond me...but it's in the instruction booklet.
Al ears
Well-known member
Al ears
Well-known member
Hi guys, just purchased a t5i on eBay but not happy about something. And that is the guy now tells me he doesn't have the high level Neutrik cable that comes supplied with the sub but he never mentioned this in his ad. How important is this cable and how expensive is it to replace?
skinnypuppy71
Well-known member
I reckon you'll pay from £20 for a knock off version from eBay and at least £38-£70 for a decent one.
Thanks. Someone on another forum directed me to BK Electronics where I can pick up a 3 metre cable for £19. Do you think that will a decent one as you put it? I see you have a Rel zero. Can I ask how big is your room and are you pleased with it?
nopiano
Well-known member
Al, I think it’s because the ground/negatives from some Class D speaker terminals can’t be paired/shorted. A bit like bridged amps can’t then be bridged, if you get my drift.
skinnypuppy71
Well-known member
If you can get one from bk for that amount ..I'd take it, they're a quality outfit.
Thanks. Someone on another forum directed me to BK Electronics where I can pick up a 3 metre cable for
Similar threads
Facebook
Twitter
Instagram