UK Voltage and your HiFi

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TrevC

Well-known member
andyjm said:
Bill,

Instantaneous power consumption will of course go down. It is not so clear however whether the electricity bill will be any smaller at the end of the month.

The fan heater will need to run just that bit longer, the cooker will take a bit longer to warm up, the kettle a bit longer to boil, you may have to switch another light on to get the same level of illumination. Lower instantaneous KW, but not necessarily lower KW-hours.

Discussions about power saving are much more nuanced than a simple 'I reduced the voltage and the power consumption went down'.

CFL lights are a case in point. At first sight, replacing a 60W incandescent bulb with a 9W CFL has saved 51W. So at the end of the month, quite rightly, you want to see the money saved. But during the winter, when the house is being heated, that 60W was offseting a heating requirement - the boiler had to work slightly less hard to keep the house to temperature. So during the heating season, the saving of replacing a 60W bulb with a 9W CFL is the price difference of 51W equivalent of gas (say) with 51W of equivalent of electricity - a much smaller saving. In fact, depending on how long the heating season is, and depending on the price differential of electricity and the fuel used to heat the house, the additional price of a CFL bulb dwarfes the value of energy 'saved'. Add in the extra energy required to make the CFL bulb in the first place, the issues with mercury vapour, and CFL bulbs don't look such a green alternative after all.

Andy (Former Electronic Design Engineer of over 30 years)

I filled my boots with different wattage Philips CFLs at 10p each from Morrisons. Years later only one has failed. Not bad really. :O)
 

relocated

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Jota180 said:
relocated said:
We have had a 'Voltage Regulator' set to 220 volts for the last 2+years. It would appear to have saved a reasonable sum of money in electricity with NO downside. The shower feeds and cooker panel are obviously not routed through the regulator and so maintain their heating force. I won't get my 'investment' back, but my wife may and we've had no breakdowns /failures of appliances/equipment.

Oh! and no downside, also means the hifi sounds just as good and the tv performance is as was.

Can you list the items of equipment that you believe have used less electricity please?

Why on earth would I bother doing that? I have passed on my experience, not theory, of using a Voltage Regulator that has; saved us money on electricity [10% or more], not compromised the performance of anything [save for a very early energy saving bulb] and will hopefully keep equipment and appliances working for longer.
 

TrevC

Well-known member
SteveR750 said:
Cockroach said:
Yes, this is how he behaves all the time. IMO he should have been moderated out of this place some time ago. Not for what he says, but because of the way he says is. He is one of the few who seems to go out of his way to sour the atmosphere. It's a shame. It used to be a more enjoyable place.

Hence the "who is really qualified to comment" thread. Forums are full of psuedo experts, treat everyone like that whatever they claim, and it's a much nicer friendlier place. Expect subjective opinion only and the willy waving crap becomes irrelevant. Remember, never feed a troll....

No willy waving here, just the facts. No insults either. :O)
 

Covenanter

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Facts:

Power consumption is proportional to voltage there if you reduce voltage you reduce power consumption and therefore bills. It's a linear relationship and therefore 10% voltage reduction = 10% power reduction.

However, things that use a resistive load to produce, for example, heat will now take longer to work effectively. Power across a resisitive load = V x V / R so the output is reduced by the square of the voltage reduction. So a reduction from 240V to 220V on an electric fire would produce about 16% less heat, which is a lot. So you will have to run them for longer which will increase bills.

Conclusions:

Devices where the "surplus" voltage is wasted, i.e. goes simply to heat the equipment, will run more cheaply and just as well with one of these regulators. They may also last longer, although that is not completely clear.

Devices which produce heat from the electricty will produce less energy and therefore will take longer to do their jobs. It is conceivable that, for example, a cold fill washing machine or dishwasher might not get up to temperature in the time allowed in the cycle and may wash less efficiently. Electric kettles, heaters, ovens, immersion heaters, etc. will definitely take longer to work.

These devices can be useful in the right environment. It will depend on the mix of electric equipment that you have in your home. If you heat using electricty (as I do) it won't save you any money in that area and indeed might make your heating inefficient or even inadequate. If on the other hand you don't use much electricity for heat, no electric heating, hot fill washing machine or dishwasher, then you will save money.

Whether it is worth the cost of the installation will depend on how much electricty you use and what type of electric equipment you have.

Chris
 

Gazzip

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Jan 15, 2011
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Covenanter said:
Facts:

Power consumption is proportional to voltage there if you reduce voltage you reduce power consumption and therefore bills. It's a linear relationship and therefore 10% voltage reduction = 10% power reduction.

However, things that use a resistive load to produce, for example, heat will now take longer to work effectively. Power across a resisitive load = V x V / R so the output is reduced by the square of the voltage reduction. So a reduction from 240V to 220V on an electric fire would produce about 16% less heat, which is a lot. So you will have to run them for longer which will increase bills.

Conclusions:

Devices where the "surplus" voltage is wasted, i.e. goes simply to heat the equipment, will run more cheaply and just as well with one of these regulators. They may also last longer, although that is not completely clear.

Devices which produce heat from the electricty will produce less energy and therefore will take longer to do their jobs. It is conceivable that, for example, a cold fill washing machine or dishwasher might not get up to temperature in the time allowed in the cycle and may wash less efficiently. Electric kettles, heaters, ovens, immersion heaters, etc. will definitely take longer to work.

These devices can be useful in the right environment. It will depend on the mix of electric equipment that you have in your home. If you heat using electricty (as I do) it won't save you any money in that area and indeed might make your heating inefficient or even inadequate. If on the other hand you don't use much electricity for heat, no electric heating, hot fill washing machine or dishwasher, then you will save money.

Whether it is worth the cost of the installation will depend on how much electricty you use and what type of electric equipment you have.

Chris

Good post.

Although I would like to add that if you have an overvoltage at 250V+ coming in (as I do) then an optimizer reducing that voltage by 10% will not cause your kettle to boil more slowly than the manufacturer intended, and your electric fire will also perform to the manufacturer's spec.

"Currently" (no pun intended) my 3KW kettle is pumping out 3.39KW (253V x 13.4A) which is nice in terms of a quick boil but well above manufacturer's spec. due to the over voltage.
 

RobinKidderminster

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@relocated (and others). I dislike arguments. Happy for those wishing to regulate/reduce voltages. But. When simple physics/calculation/common sense is.contradicted,.then these posts become frustrating.

Heating & cooking etc out of the equation and claimed 10% electricity savings??? My major electricity use is through a tumble dryer, kettle, washing machine etc - those devices which would generate more heat in a given time (against a lower voltage) and therefore would not save anything. And do I measure my electric??? My bills go up and I dont count/compare units because sometimes the weather from one year to another changes. There is no sensible way I could compare consecutive electeicity bills and deduce I had saved 10%.

Several engineers have explained that most equipment will not run detrementally with higher voltage. A few may have a reduced life. There are far too many variables to claim significant cost/lifetime savings but with all the facts before us some may wish to invest. Thats fine.

But for goodness sake dont make exagerated claims which make the whole subject smell of snake oil. The OP was careful to simply quote some facts. Lets interpret these facts with a little intelligence.
 

relocated

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RobinKidderminster said:
@relocated (and others). I dislike arguments. Happy for those wishing to regulate/reduce voltages. But. When simple physics/calculation/common sense is.contradicted,.then these posts become frustrating.

Heating & cooking etc out of the equation and claimed 10% electricity savings??? My major electricity use is through a tumble dryer, kettle, washing machine etc - those devices which would generate more heat in a given time (against a lower voltage) and therefore would not save anything. And do I measure my electric??? My bills go up and I dont count/compare units because sometimes the weather from one year to another changes. There is no sensible way I could compare consecutive electeicity bills and deduce I had saved 10%.

Several engineers have explained that most equipment will not run detrementally with higher voltage. A few may have a reduced life. There are far too many variables to claim significant cost/lifetime savings but with all the facts before us some may wish to invest. Thats fine.

But for goodness sake dont make exagerated claims which make the whole subject smell of snake oil. The OP was careful to simply quote some facts. Lets interpret these facts with a little intelligence.

Firstly I have not, did not, post for the purpose of argument. I posted about my real life EXPERIENCE. If I tell you that our electricity bills have seen a certain saving then that is EXACTLY the case and I'll thank you NOT to question my honesty.

Our use of electricity is very easy to monitor and therefore very easy to work out savings. In the last year we have installed an instant 'boiling' kitchen tap so no longer use a kettle. This has also saved money on electric consumption, the % I know not and care not because it is so convenient.

So have your arguments you technically proficient fellows, just don't go questioning my honesty.
 

RobinKidderminster

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Sorry relocated. I (honesrly) did not question your honesty. My only point was that you claimed to save more than 10% electric-city by using a voltage regulator. My question was how can you measure such a saving when the weather and other life style changes will have a significant effect. Has your instant boil device effected your bill more than the regulator? I would (like another) like to know which equipment was 'regulated' leading to an overall saving of 10% elecrricity. You must admit that Government & power companies would look very carefully at devices giving this kind of savings when (I suspect) their current initiatives of energy monitors etc is highly unlikely to give this kind of saving. Cheers

PS - Googling a few 'green' sites whilst not conclusive, concensis seems to be that these devices are unlikely to give significant savings - this being 'whole house' systems offering regulated supply voltages.
 

relocated

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Robin,

You continue to question my honesty. If you cannot see this then you shouldn't have face to face conversations with people otherwise someone, sometime will give you more than a harsh word.

I'm not interested in justifying myself, because I have the satisfaction of knowing what savings have happened. Especially given that the Regulator was not purchased for electricity savings. My priorities were the control of excess voltage as presented at every check we had made [and even worse surges that our area suffers from], then the possibility of reduced burn out of appliances and lastly the possibility of electric saving.

DO NOT bother to address me further in this thread because I shall not look in on it again.
 

TrevC

Well-known member
relocated said:
Robin,

You continue to question my honesty. If you cannot see this then you shouldn't have face to face conversations with people otherwise someone, sometime will give you more than a harsh word.

I'm not interested in justifying myself, because I have the satisfaction of knowing what savings have happened. Especially given that the Regulator was not purchased for electricity savings. My priorities were the control of excess voltage as presented at every check we had made [and even worse surges that our area suffers from], then the possibility of reduced burn out of appliances and lastly the possibility of electric saving.

DO NOT bother to address me further in this thread because I shall not look in on it again.

Most electricity consumption is by appliances that produce heat. Your voltage regulator will save no energy when used by such appliances, however If you use a lot of refrigeration then there may be savings to be made there. I would set it to 230 volts, because there is an optimum voltage for induction motors and that will probably be 230 volts for an EU appliance unless it is very old.

Nobody's questioning your honesty.
 
A

Anderson

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FFFFUUUUUU

I WANTED TO SAY MY LINE AND YOU TOOK IT FROM ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

RobinKidderminster

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Warned against face to face conversations! Blimey. I am happy to conclude my thoughts on this one and I regret that a fellow forumite has been upset by comments. I suggest googling and make up your own mind ignoring rude and offensive comments that I make.

Cheers to all.
 
A

Anderson

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Guys, seriously, do you want to know the truth? Totes serious!
 
A

Anderson

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Not what I was going for but funny all the same haha

DANGER DANGER.............
 

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