abacus

Well-known member
The fuse is there to protect the cable, not the equipment, however for source equipment usually 3 amp is all that is needed.
There should be a rating on the back of the machine saying how many watts it uses, divide this by the voltage and you will get how much current is required to run it.

Bill
 
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Wow, what a great find! They’re as rare as hens teeth now, aren’t they? One of best cassette decks ever made, and like Bill I can’t imagine it’ll need more than a 3amp fuse.

If it’s in good shape, I’d actually be tempted to leave the original cable and plug as is, as long as you use a fused adapter, as that keeps it authentic.
 
He is correct. The fuse in a plug is to protect the cable against surges. In many cases the device will have an internal fuse of a lower rating than the one in the plug. It is this that protects the equipment.
I'm still struggling a bit with this - how does it work with devices without an internal fuse, such as a kettle or mower? I'd always thought that current exceeding the rated amount for these sorts of things indicated a short - possibly via a human - and therefore the supply needed to be broken. Having seen a school chum pick up a wire that had come out of it's mower connector, that was certainly what happened - that is after he'd done a back flip, screamed and run away...

I take it most things come fitted with a lead that'll cope with 13A regardless - I've certainly used mains cables with things that have required different wattages from the item they originally came with - and no ill effects thus far!
 
I'm still struggling a bit with this - how does it work with devices without an internal fuse, such as a kettle or mower? I'd always thought that current exceeding the rated amount for these sorts of things indicated a short - possibly via a human - and therefore the supply needed to be broken. Having seen a school chum pick up a wire that had come out of it's mower connector, that was certainly what happened - that is after he'd done a back flip, screamed and run away...

I take it most things come fitted with a lead that'll cope with 13A regardless - I've certainly used mains cables with things that have required different wattages from the item they originally came with - and no ill effects thus far!
Google fused mains plugs
 

Gray

Well-known member
I'm still struggling a bit with this - how does it work with devices without an internal fuse, such as a kettle or mower?
In those cases the mains plug fuse is effectively providing protection for both its cable and (to some extent) the appliance - although kettles have thermal cutouts.

Your school mate makes the case for the earth leakage circuit breaker (ELCB).
They have to react in milliseconds to milliamps of current flow to earth - because you can't rely on a standard mains fuse to blow before a human does.
(Although one hand each on live and neutral and an ELCB won't save you).

A kettle lead will be rated higher, but you'll probably see that your IEC leads and connectors for most things are rated at 10, maybe 6 amps - and those ones will usually have no more than 5A fuses in the plug.
 

Gray

Well-known member
I did because I have never heard of fused main plugs. Might it be this is some regulation specific for the UK?
Where are you based Vincent?

There's an interesting couple of video on YT, one American compares and another responds to the differences between US and UK mains plugs.

They look at the pros and cons - covering the fact that, because UK plugs usually have bottom-entry cable, they're not so easy to accidentally detach from the socket.
They like how the pins open safety shutters in the socket.

The one ' danger' that got pointed out, was that UK plugs can rest pins-up on the floor....meaning that you can tread on them barefoot 🙂
 
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daveh75

Well-known member
Where are you based Vincent?

There's an interesting couple of video on YT, one American compares and another responds to the differences between US and UK mains plugs.

They look at the pros and cons - covering the fact that, because UK plugs usually have bottom-entry cable, they're not so easy to accidentally detach from the socket.
They like how the pins open safety shutters in the socket.

The one ' danger' that got pointed out, was that UK plugs can rest pins-up on the floor....meaning that you can tread on them barefoot 🙂

I think the British Youtuber Tom Scott video was probably the original on the clever design, others either seem to reference it or are just "reactions" to it from what I've seen.
 
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Gray

Well-known member
I think the British Youtuber Tom Scott video was probably the original on the clever design, others either seem to reference it or are just "reactions" to it from what I've seen.
Yes and it's the sort of design we would have expected from the UK - done with safety in mind.

Which is why things like ridiculously overbright LED car headlights....how has that happened in the UK?
 
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Vincent Kars

Well-known member
Where are you based Vincent?
Amsterdam

When I was young (50's) we had a "stop". A porcelain insulator with a thin wire. If the current was too high the wire melted. So a fuse. My parents home had one of 6 A. When they bought a washing machine it had to be upgrade to a hefty 8 A!
Somewhere in the 70's the aardlekschakelaar (earth leakage circuit breaker) become mandatory.
In those early years it was a pita because as soon as you started your washing machine, it tripped.
Early this century it become mandatory for sockets to have a earth pin as well (new or renovated houses only).

UK plugs can rest pins-up on the floor
Designed by LEGO....
 
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