You're right, it's really added to the sound stage. I'm very pleased. The most difficult thing for me about setting it up was the mass of the object. Not the easiest thing I ever lifted.With your fondness for classical I thought it would only be a matter of time before you explored the sub route. Standmounts are great but they do lack the scale needed for classical, my opinion of course.
If you say so.the characteristics of this acoustics are similar to marketing/hoax![]()
By the way, your grammar needs some work.the characteristics of this acoustics are similar to marketing/hoax![]()
Please explain.If you decided to take a spherical subwoofer, then why didn’t you buy acoustics of the same shape? The design should be uniform![]()
Explain please.the characteristics of this acoustics are similar to marketing/hoax![]()
Agree he is coming out with some tosh....Please explain.
That's a very impressive system you have there. In addition, thanks for your very good explanation about the set up and advantages of adding a subwoofer or two to a stereo system. Most interesting.The use of a subwoofer is of paramount importance. For eg. pic. below shows KEF Reference 3's which are perfectly capable of good quality low frequencies. However this system features a pair of JL Audio Fathom f112 v2 subwoofers and a JL Audio CR-1 active subwoofer crossover with a crossover point to the main speakers set at 90Hz, so the Reference 3's speakers are relieved of the need to produce deep bass. This crossover point relieves the main speakers of the bottom two octaves (20Hz - 40Hz and 40Hz - 80Hz) and more which lowers distortion in the main speakers. The Fathom f112 v2’s do a much better job in this region. As a result the system is more transparent and dynamic from bottom to top, at low volumes as well as at higher volumes and the space in the original recording is much better defined than the KEF Reference 3's on their own.
View attachment 5071
With all things being equal a subwoofer is the most important component. Ideally frequencies up to 90Hz should be unburdened from the mains and this LF burden passed on to a subwoofer to deal with.
I believe to achieve 'realism' requires power and even if the mains go down to 20Hz a subwoofer should still be incorporated because in my experience a subwoofer can inject power into and energise a system like no other component can.
The goal is to effectively align, calibrate, dial in a subwoofer so that the subwoofer integrates seamlessly with the mains and disappears into the soundstage with a deep, sharp, tight fisted, fast and powerful punchy sub bass.
The active subwoofer I have, has been wired in parallel with the speakers at the amplifier speaker output terminals.That's a very impressive system you have there. In addition, thanks for your very good explanation about the set up and advantages of adding a subwoofer or two to a stereo system. Most interesting.
No. The way it is connected the speakers have no idea there is a sub connected and just carry on their merry way.Does this mean that the subwoofer will automatically relieve the speakers of playing the lower frequencies?
Thanks for clearing that up for me.No. The way it is connected the speakers have no idea there is a sub connected and just carry on their merry way.
I'm not even sure 'relieving' them of something they were designed to do would make a massive difference but I guess it's hard to be sure unless you try it.
Apart from my current QA 3030i, I have always used a sub with stand-mounts and never felt the need to try and limit what the main speakers are doing.
You're right, it's really added to the sound stage. I'm very pleased. The most difficult thing for me about setting it up was the mass of the object. Not the easiest thing I ever lifted.
My brother found me this rather interesting ancient cast iron gear wheel. He very kindly painted it for me and donated it as a stand for the subwoofer. It weighs about 25lbs.You're right, it's really added to the sound stage. I'm very pleased. The most difficult thing for me about setting it up was the mass of the object. Not the easiest thing I ever lifted.
You're right, it's really added to the sound stage. I'm very pleased. The most difficult thing for me about setting it up was the mass of the object. Not the easiest thing I ever lifted.
I think if you substitute ’loudspeaker’ for the word ‘acoustics’ it makes more sense. Maybe this is a translation issue? (And at least they don’t call me ‘mate’!)Please explain.
Your Wharfedale's have a frequency response 45Hz - 20kHz, so they can go quite low. These are fair size speakers and shouldn't be bass shy. Your Q Acoustics 3060 frequency Response (+3 dB, -6 dB): 35 – 250 Hz and it already has crossover setting. I would leave the amp to it's default setting and use the SW setting instead.Due to work life balance not had much time for my hifi. I discovered today the my Amp has a low pass filter setting 🤓.
🤔 but what should i have it set too DOH !
Specs attached hope the text size is not too small .
Thank you.
How do i know the subwoofer setting ? thanks Jason that solves some of it . Thanks.Your Wharfedale's have a frequency response 45Hz - 20kHz, so they can go quite low. These are fair size speakers and shouldn't be bass shy. Your Q Acoustics 3060 frequency Response (+3 dB, -6 dB): 35 – 250 Hz and it already has crossover setting. I would leave the amp to it's default setting and use the SW setting instead.
It's always going to be trial and error, before you find the setting that suits your setup and room acoustics.
These are big speakers, I would set the cross over on the SW to 60. See how this sounds to yours ears.How do i know the subwoofer setting ? thanks Jason that solves some of it . Thanks.
cool thanksThese are big speakers, I would set the cross over on the SW to 60. See how this sounds to yours ears.
If it comes across lumpy in the bass decrease incrementally to 55 or not enough bass knock it up to 65. Do it incrementally either way until it is fully aligned with your speakers.
It can, just what is your other hobby?Good point. By the way the gearwheel plinth is going, that was just a bit of fun.
I think it can be put to better use.![]()
Subwoofer manufacturers really recommend 2.Looking at the Marantz PM8005, there are a pair Pre-Out connections that can feed a signal to a sub-woofer.
I would recommend only a single woofer as low range bass is generally omni-directional. Unless you're listening in a very large room with a very wide speaker placement, two sub-woofers would be somewhat of an over-kill... Else, you'd be far better off getting a higher quality unit.
If you opt for a single woofer, make sure it has tow inputs available and then connect both pre-out channels to the woofer.
Rob
And speaker cable manufacturers recommend that you buy wire, er, I mean bi-wire!! 😉Subwoofer manufacturers really recommend 2.
Indeed… 1 is fine for about any reasonable living room.
LGBTQ++++++++ wire.And speaker cable manufacturers recommend that you buy wire, er, I mean bi-wire!! 😉