Subwoofer for Harbeth P3ERS

Babyboomerxyz

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Mar 31, 2020
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Hi, I bought a used Velodyne CHT-8R subwoofer to be used with the P3ESR SE. Does anyone have experience on what crossover settings to is best? The sub came without its remote so it will be manual adjustments all the way. Is this sub even suitable for 2-channel music?
 
It seemed to be liked by this magazine almost 12 years ago.


As for settings, I’m not a sub expert, but if you start at 80Hz and possibly work upwards, given how tiny your P3s are. Obviously, begin with the volume down low!

These tracks might be handy. ..


PS. Apologies, that review is the q not the r Model
 
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Babyboomerxyz

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Mar 31, 2020
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It seemed to be liked by this magazine almost 12 years ago.


As for settings, I’m not a sub expert, but if you start at 80Hz and possibly work upwards, given how tiny your P3s are. Obviously, begin with the volume down low!

These tracks might be handy. ..


PS. Apologies, that review is the q not the r Model


Thanks for the reply. No worries - I saw the review on the Q but cannot find anything on the R.
 

Alphajack

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Babyboomerxyz

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Thank you for the suggestions. I tried various x-over settings with the lowest volume but find the P3 soundstage less open (worse at higher crossover points), and the bass "thumpy", not sure how to describe it, but the bass notes are not well defined (as the P3's) and "thumps". I was hoping for a "rounder" bass to better blend in with the P3. If anyone has better results with other model subs, please do share ? I have this feeling the "CHT" could be more suitable for home theater to provide the thumps for action movies?
 
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Gray

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.....not sure how to describe it, but the bass notes are not well defined (as the P3's)
Another poster recently described how his sub's bass notes seemed 'slightly behind' his main speakers. It doesn't surprise me.
I'm fully aware that my small PMC standmounts can't match a sub's bass depth, but I'd be amazed if any sub could match their bass quality.
Good luck with finding a sub (or even a floorstander) to match the bass quality of the best standmount speakers.
 
I tried various x-over settings with the lowest volume but find the P3 soundstage less open (worse at higher crossover points), and the bass "thumpy", not sure how to describe it, but the bass notes are not well defined (as the P3's) and "thumps". I was hoping for a "rounder" bass to better blend in with the P3.

Unfortunately this is very much likely due to incorrect alignment, calibration and dialling in of the subwoofer in relation to the mains.
 
If you “need” a sub, does that mean you bought the wrong speakers in the first place?

When you're content with the electronics and loudspeakers then look at supporting the system with a subwoofer or two or more.

Out of interest ref: your review thread about your new speakers which look great btw, adding a subwoofer such as an E-110 is likely to make the single most profound difference to the overall performance of your system.
 
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johnognald

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I have my P3ESR XD in a small room.
I’ve set myKEF KC62 sub to around 42 or 43Hz which sounds best to me
I think this corresponds to a -6dB drop off on the stereophile low frequency graph.
Sounds pretty good
 
I have my P3ESR XD in a small room.
I’ve set myKEF KC62 sub to around 42 or 43Hz which sounds best to me
I think this corresponds to a -6dB drop off on the stereophile low frequency graph.
Sounds pretty good
Yet the point isn’t merely to take over once the main speaker passes out (as it were) but to offload most of the heavy lifting to the sub. Hence a higher point might be better. But since you like it….
 

skutters

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Hi,
I bought a Rel T5x Sub just before Xmas to Add some weight and Bass to my P3esr's and once I had got it integrated with the speakers I felt it made a notable difference To the overall sound with a bigger soundstage and deeper and tighter bass. With the Rel you attach the supplied cables to the speaker terminals which helps with timing. It did take a while to get it set up how I liked there are no numbers to work with on the crossover/gain dials, they click as you slowly turn them so I started with REL's recommended starting points of between 11/15 clicks for the crossover and 10/12 for the gain then it's a case of experimenting. But well worth it in my humble opinion.
 

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