Speakers HELP!

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I've just unpacked a pair EB Acoustics 1s and there are two sets of binding posts for bi-wiring on each speaker. Do I use top or bottom posts for single wire leads? Will it matter? Also, there is a 'bracket' that is removable when the posts are unscrewed. Should I leave this on or remove it before attatching speakers? Would appreciate any help!
 
Use the LF connections (the bottom pair) and YES; leave the binding posts ON as they connect the HF terminals to the LF termincals
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If in the future you want to remove the brass, poor binding termincals you can just use a piece of your speaker cable to connect the terminals or you could buy something like the Chord Siganture Speaker Jumper cables

HTH
 
I'd sayget rid of those bracket copper bar asap, and replace them with jumper cables(if u are not bi-wiring), the improvement is very palpable.

About which to use for your leads, i suggest you to experiment a little, normally both L and R go in the LF and jump up to HF. For me this way i get a good foundation with more powerful bass but not as balanced when i put one on HF with the other on the LF, so instead of LF LF on one speaker, you go HF LF, the same with the other speaker.

See which one you like and stick with it.

good luck

andy
 
I've got some EB1's myself and Richard Allen advises diamond wiring them i.e. if you have them both connected to the bottom binding posts leave one connection where it is and move the other vertically up to the top post - or vicky verky if you have them wired in at the top. It works well for me.
 
what does this mean? that they are wrongly connected inside? can this be used to improve other brands of speaerks?
 
I used to use the diamond method for the MA BR2's when I used them and I was surprised at how much difference it made for the better!
 
Tony Warwick:
I've got some EB1's myself and Richard Allen advises diamond wiring them i.e. if you have them both connected to the bottom binding posts leave one connection where it is and move the other vertically up to the top post - or vicky verky if you have them wired in at the top. It works well for me.

I just tried this on my Dali`s but didn`t make any obvious difference (to my ears anyway) so put it back to the traditional connections,at least didn`t blow the speakers up!

Now I have a question,if I`m lucky I may be getting atc scm40`s and a K2 power amp later in the year.I see that the Atc`s can be tri amped/wired so assume they have 3 sets of binding posts.I`ll be using them bi-amped so which sets of binding posts should be used? I`m assuming you would connect 2 of the 3 sets to the amps and then have jumpers between the other set.
 
Do you mean move one whole cable up i.e. for the left speaker have the cable in the top binding post and for the right speaker the bottom binding post, or on EACH speaker keep one wire in bottom binding post and put one in top binding post? If the second option, which cable goes where?
 
I wouldn't worry about it. I've tried all possible permutations and they made not a skerrick of difference.
 
id doesnt seem to have any logic at all if the bingind posts are in place.
 
hi all,

does it matter if you use specific jumper cables or a segment of the cable thats running from the amp to speaker? would they make much of a difference?
 
newaudio:
hi all,

does it matter if you use specific jumper cables or a segment of the cable thats running from the amp to speaker? would they make much of a difference?

Lives have been lost over questions like this!

If you believe that an inch or so of cable can make a difference, then use speaker cable. If you don't, then use the jumper that came with the speaker originally.

If you don't care because, frankly, life's too short to worry about things like this, use either.
 
hah! its the question thats compounds all. just done it with speaker cable and its sounds grand! gona use the B-Speakers option on amp for sony speakers to be placed in kitchen..... wheres me drill for hole makin!
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