Marantz M-CR603 + KEF Q100 - sensible setup?

[admin_exported]

Hello there,

I'm planning to get a Marantz M-CR603 and a pair of KEF Q100 - could anyone tell me if that is a sensible combination? Also, would it be sensible to use bi-wiring / bi-amping? I'm quite not very experienced with amps and speakers, to be honest ;-).

Also I'd like to know for certain whether the M-CR603 has a digital optical in or not - the specs on marantz.com say it doesn't, but clearly on the image of the rear panel I found on the same site it seems to have one - marked as "AUX 4 IN (OPTICAL)". Can anyone who has an M-CR603 confirm that the optical input exists and is fully functional? Since I plan to hook it up with my PC, this would be rather important to me so I can use the M-CR603's integrated DAC.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[chebby]

Yes the optical digital input (AUX 4) is fully functional.

I am using it plugged into my Sony BDP-S370.

If I were you I wouldn't bother with the whole bi-amping, bi-wiring faffing around. Leave it in default mode (all the power from speaker set A only) and single wire those KEFs and enjoy.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks - I'm quite relieved about the digital input.

What about the KEF Q100s? Do they sound like a good match? Are there any other suggestions?

 

[dave_k]

I've heard the Marantz with some Kef Q300s and thought the combination was excellent. I'm sure the 100s will be equally impressive, if a little less large scale.

 

[Anonymous]

Well, that's reassuring, thanks. Concerning scale: If by that you mean "less loud", that doesn't bother me, since I'm going to use them in a rather small room where the Q300s would certainly be overkill. The only thing I am concerned with is whether they sound good.

 

[dave_k]

Well, that's reassuring, thanks. Concerning scale: If by that you mean "less loud", that doesn't bother me, since I'm going to use them in a rather small room where the Q300s would certainly be overkill. The only thing I am concerned with is whether they sound good.

To clarify, i meant there will be a little less bass (but not that much if you look at the specs). The overall sound (with the Q300s) was full and detailed with excellent sound stage and separation of voices and instruments - and i was standing not sitting...

Q100s plus a small sub might be the way to go if you want full range.

 

[Brek]

I recently bought the q100's as the front end to a marantz cd6002, and was also planning on upgrading the ca topaz in the near future (I have put that on hold) as the q100's have transformed my system in a way I did not expect, it sounds 'hi-end' through a cheap amp. Very happy, and, as you, I have a small room approx 4x4m and the q300's would have swamped the room. I have them on atacama stands with a toe in and they image as well as I remember my £1000 dynaudio speakers but with a more tunefull and detailed bass.

 

[krazy_olie]

The bi-amping does work, tried on my 502 and I think it makes a slight difference but subtle at most

 

[The_Lhc]

If I were you I wouldn't bother with the whole bi-amping, bi-wiring faffing around. Leave it in default mode (all the power from speaker set A only) and single wire those KEFs and enjoy.

Have you actually seen inside the Q-series' terminal block? I have, it looks distinctly, ermm, Heath Robinson, I'd bi-wire the Q series just to bypass the nasty looking contacts. For clarity, I already own KEF speakers and I am seriously considering the Q series, so I'm not anti-KEF in any way, I just don't like the look of that. I've seen a few comments to the effect that bi-wiring makes a distinct improvement on the Q series as well, and that's what I'd put it down to.

 

[chebby]

If I were you I wouldn't bother with the whole bi-amping, bi-wiring faffing around. Leave it in default mode (all the power from speaker set A only) and single wire those KEFs and enjoy.

Have you actually seen inside the Q-series' terminal block? I have, it looks distinctly, ermm, Heath Robinson, I'd bi-wire the Q series just to bypass the nasty looking contacts.

In which case, removing the "nasty looking contacts" and substituting small 'jumper' cables (with soldered spades) will do the job without having the faff and expense of fully bi-wiring (and the small loss in power that results.)

 

[The_Lhc]

If I were you I wouldn't bother with the whole bi-amping, bi-wiring faffing around. Leave it in default mode (all the power from speaker set A only) and single wire those KEFs and enjoy.

Have you actually seen inside the Q-series' terminal block? I have, it looks distinctly, ermm, Heath Robinson, I'd bi-wire the Q series just to bypass the nasty looking contacts.

In which case, removing the "nasty looking contacts" and substituting small 'jumper' cables (with soldered spades) will do the job without having the faff and expense of fully bi-wiring (and the small loss in power that results.)

The contacts are internal on the Q series, you undo the knob on the outside to make them bi-wire/amp but yes that'll work just as well.

 

[Anonymous]

The kef Q100's are a great speakers, the bass from the q100's are excellent, imo a fine speaker.

 

[krazy_olie]

If I were you I wouldn't bother with the whole bi-amping, bi-wiring faffing around. Leave it in default mode (all the power from speaker set A only) and single wire those KEFs and enjoy.

Have you actually seen inside the Q-series' terminal block? I have, it looks distinctly, ermm, Heath Robinson, I'd bi-wire the Q series just to bypass the nasty looking contacts.

In which case, removing the "nasty looking contacts" and substituting small 'jumper' cables (with soldered spades) will do the job without having the faff and expense of fully bi-wiring (and the small loss in power that results.)

Yes, you don't need to use the bi amp feature in order to bypass the the internal connections, however the guy that sold mine to me said he tried using some QED jumpers and he heard no difference over the internal wiring so could just be a load of faff for all I know.

Bi amping affects the amp more than it does the speakers. You run 4x25w amps instead of 2x50. It's really designed for running 2 sets of speakers. If you biamp the q100 for example you have one 25w amp working on a driver each, but the amp driving the low frequency driver will be throwing away high frequencies and the amp driving away the tweeter will throw away the low frequencies. Literally it's power lost as heat. On the potential plus side you avoid using whatever amp bridging circuitry is in there. You need to add on an extra few notches of volume in biamp mode to match the equivalent single amp mode.

I just have mine single wired now with no issues, the biamping business was just too many wires and offered no benefit. I may knock up some jumper leads if I can be bothered for testing. The internal connector would have to be quite bad for it to make a difference though