Arcam A5 or A15?

[gasolin]

Nah!. I think that has 30wpc

No,some sites say 23 watt sugden say 25 watt

Sugden A21 Signature

Sugden A21 Signature De eerste commerciële Sugden versterker was de A21 in het midden van de jaren 1960. Hij wordt algemeen erkend als de eerste commerciële, solid state, pure klasse A versterker beschikbaar voor de liefhebber. Het was een heel speciale versterker met een single-ended klasse A...

hifiboutique.eu

https://www.sugdenaudio.com/a21-integrated---line-amplifier

 

[gasolin]

And you wonder why?
I am out of here but certainly hope the OP has gained some understanding.

I didn't reply until yesterday

 

[Al ears]

No,some sites say 23 watt sugden say 25 watt

Sugden A21 Signature

Sugden A21 Signature De eerste commerciële Sugden versterker was de A21 in het midden van de jaren 1960. Hij wordt algemeen erkend als de eerste commerciële, solid state, pure klasse A versterker beschikbaar voor de liefhebber. Het was een heel speciale versterker met een single-ended klasse A...

hifiboutique.eu

https://www.sugdenaudio.com/a21-integrated---line-amplifier

e

Still not relevant.
I am gone

 

[Noddy]

It's not about playing super loud but having a little more power than you need, so it always sounds clean and still have enough if you upgrade speakers to someting less efficient , 40 watt peak isn't much if you wanna play loud

People who spend their life upgrading components in the search for an unachievable perfection may well choose that argument. Someone who wants to find a system to play music probably won’t, as they’re more interested in listening to music.

Friends have had their systems for decades. The only reason I replaced my amp is because it blew, and I decided to replace the speakers when I noticed that female singers sounded weird. I’ve had the current system for a few years, I have no need to change, it should do me out unless it blows.

If people have the money they should find an amp that sounds good and have just about enough power and buy the amp above it, if possible

Just buy one that provides enough power at maximum tolerable listening levels.

How often do you go 200mph or 320kmh in your sportscar,hypercar

The power it has makes it easy to go past slower cars and the engine can handle alot of weight,load without feeling asthmatic

Makes a difference having a little extra power

I wanted a big garden. Looking back, I’m glad it’s only medium sized, a big one would have been too much work. More inappropriate analogies are available on request.

if 40 watt is enough why do you have a 2x160 watt in 8 ohm amp ?

Why not a galion (thomas & stereo) TS34 or the TS A20


Al ears try for a week to live with a 2x40 watt amp and tell us if it's enough, also when playing loud

It’s pretty easy to do calculations of the required sound level and the power needed to achieve that sound level with given speakers. My speakers only use a fraction of the amps power at comfortable listening levels. If the OP is listening in a huge room, from the opposite end, or is fixated on, or currently suffering from, hearing loss, then he would need more wattage.

 

[manicm]

People who spend their life upgrading components in the search for an unachievable perfection may well choose that argument. Someone who wants to find a system to play music probably won’t, as they’re more interested in listening to music.

Friends have had their systems for decades. The only reason I replaced my amp is because it blew, and I decided to replace the speakers when I noticed that female singers sounded weird. I’ve had the current system for a few years, I have no need to change, it should do me out unless it blows.

Just buy one that provides enough power at maximum tolerable listening levels.

I wanted a big garden. Looking back, I’m glad it’s only medium sized, a big one would have been too much work. More inappropriate analogies are available on request.

It’s pretty easy to do calculations of the required sound level and the power needed to achieve that sound level with given speakers. My speakers only use a fraction of the amps power at comfortable listening levels. If the OP is listening in a huge room, from the opposite end, or is fixated on, or currently suffering from, hearing loss, then he would need more wattage.

It's not about adequate power, but headroom for those sudden peaks in music, as can happen in classical and rock. THAT is when extra power comes in handy avoiding clipping and distortion depending on the volume you're playing.

Yes, you don't need extra power, but since the OP has the privilege of choice then by every review I've read, I would definitely keep the A15 over the A5. And since these are class A/B amps, you're not really saving on electricity anyway. It also opens up further possibilities for speaker pairing down the line.

 

[Noddy]

It's not about adequate power, but headroom for those sudden peaks in music, as can happen in classical and rock. THAT is when extra power comes in handy avoiding clipping and distortion depending on the volume you're playing.

Yes, you don't need extra power, but since the OP has the privilege of choice then by every review I've read, I would definitely keep the A15 over the A5. And since these are class A/B amps, you're not really saving on electricity anyway. It also opens up further possibilities for speaker pairing down the line.

Good amps have headroom beyond the nominal power ratings to allow for transient peaks. And the dynamic power rating of an amplifier can be measured. For example my amp has nominal power ratings of 50W into 8 Ohms and 75W into 4 Ohms, but measured dynamic power ratings of 71 and 133W respectively. And that’s ignoring the fact that the power draw for normal listening will be well below the nominal values.

As ever the surest method is to demo units. My experience is that my ears are easily fooled, and some time and a range of music are needed.

 

[gasolin]

It's not like amps has huge amount of dynamic power over rated rms power (thats only nad and it's not much but more than most amps).

Dynamic power over rms is often 1-2db if lucky 3db , a yamaha r-n800a has the same amp,power as the r-n1000a

We often don't know how loud we play, if we could keep max peak power under rated rms all would be fine

We just don't know how much dynamic power music has, since it can easily be + 10 db over avarage power,spl and 30db from lowest to highest peakes is not uncommon

https://www.audioholics.com/av-receiver-reviews/yamaha-r-n1000a-receiver (rated at 100 and 140 watt pr channel in 8 ohm, 220 watt peak in 4 ohm)

 

[Noddy]

I am currently listening to my modest 50W per channel amp with a volume of -32 dB relative to the maximum output. I am seated about 2.5 m from the not so easy to drive speakers in a 4 by 5 m2 room, and the volume level is comfortable, a bit louder than I usuallly have it, I wouldn’t want it louder. I turn it down if I’m reading something, so I can concentrate.

 

[gasolin]

you can't say 0db is full power

-32 is -32 but how much is it from max power ? (no 0 db doesn't mean max power)

i had to try loud on my amp -20 was very loud and i set max volume to -20 and now -25

Not sharper or lack of bass just loud

 

[Noddy]

You can work out the required amp power using numerous online tools such as this one:

Request Rejected

I take 70 dB as a comfortable and safe level, but even with 75 dB the power required is well below a modest amps rating.

As for the volume level, countless sources state that the volume level is the attenuation of the input signal before it passes though the amplifier.

I certainly don’t want to turn my volume knob up to anywhere near maximum. I value my hearing and my speakers.

I agree with Al ears, and the little bit of technobabble I dug up supports us both.

 

[gasolin]

Arcam A5 Richersounds £749

One store in Denmark £586

Arcam a15 Richersound £1099

One store in denmark £860

A15 open box £970 https://www.tvatech.co.uk/arcam-a15-gr-200015616.html

None of them in denmark is open box

Buy the A15 at a good bf price and don't have to worry about power as much as when you bought the A5

As written by manicm:

It's not about adequate power, but headroom for those sudden peaks in music, as can happen in classical and rock. THAT is when extra power comes in handy avoiding clipping and distortion depending on the volume you're playing.

 

[RoA]

You may also be able to pick up an SA20 for under £700.

 

[gasolin]

SA20

Class G , A15 is class A/b

 

[RoA]

Yup. Is that an issue?

 

[Noddy]

Yup. Is that an issue?

Class A is best in winter when it will warm your room. Class D is best in summer when it won’t create (much) waste heat. Class A/B is a nice compromise. Class G is a dual season system, listen loud in winter, quiet in summer, and you’re cushtie. They should all sound the same if well implemented and not voiced. But that won’t stop people claiming to hear differences.

 

[RoA]

It's a fantastic amplifier. I also have your 6000A which I like a lot.

 

[plastic penguin]

Yup. Is that an issue?

To be honest, DM, when I heard the A39 (Class G) in isolation, it sounded just like any other Arcam. I love the Arcam sound regardless of the class of amplification.

 

[gasolin]

It can be, i like nad class a/b better than similar priced nad class d amps but i wouldn't mind a nad c399 (Hypex nCore)

 

[Al ears]

To be honest, DM, when I heard the A39 (Class G) in isolation, it sounded just like any other Arcam. I love the Arcam sound regardless of the class of amplification.

just so. Regardless of the amplification method used you either like it or you don't.
most people wouldn't know the difference between an A/B type amplifier and a Class G if they didn't have a spec sheet in front of them.