Hi there i am looking at purchasing some clearer audio copper-line mains cables for my Receiver, Apple TV, Sky HD, PS3 but they have an option of what size fuse is required? Could anyone please point me in the right direction as i want to make sure i get the right one!
What size fuse for brand new mains cable?
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The fuse in the plug should be about protecting the cable, not the attached device (which should have its own fuse).
PJPro:The fuse in the plug should be about protecting the cable, not the attached device (which should have its own fuse).
Therefore the supplier should be fitting the appropriate fuse for the cross sectional area of the cable, it should not be your call!
Therefore the supplier should be fitting the appropriate fuse for the cross sectional area of the cable, it should not be your call!
Dave_
Well-known member
andytucker:Hi there i am looking at purchasing some clearer audio copper-line mains cables for my Receiver, Apple TV, Sky HD, PS3 but they have an option of what size fuse is required? Could anyone please point me in the right direction as i want to make sure i get the right one!
Appliances upto 700w = 3 amp fuse
Appliances over 700w = 13 amp fuse
Appliances upto 700w = 3 amp fuse
Appliances over 700w = 13 amp fuse
Hello,
Your devices will have internal fuses but if it blows the fuse it would be much easier to change it in the plug in my opinion. To be honest a 1mm cable can hold about 13 amps and so can the casing of the plug before it over heats and melts. I would calculate what fuse you require for each device. Simply its just a change of the ohms law equation, replacing r(resistance) with watts, so a=w/v , a is the amps on load(size of fuse required) w is how many watts your device draws and v is the volts which is about 240 v.
I hope this helps.
Your devices will have internal fuses but if it blows the fuse it would be much easier to change it in the plug in my opinion. To be honest a 1mm cable can hold about 13 amps and so can the casing of the plug before it over heats and melts. I would calculate what fuse you require for each device. Simply its just a change of the ohms law equation, replacing r(resistance) with watts, so a=w/v , a is the amps on load(size of fuse required) w is how many watts your device draws and v is the volts which is about 240 v.
I hope this helps.
chudleighpaul:IMHO you are wasting your money
"a fool and his money are easily parted"
OMFG I've just looked at those. £75 power cables and £200 4 gang extension leads. It's like the enlightenment never happened.
"a fool and his money are easily parted"
OMFG I've just looked at those. £75 power cables and £200 4 gang extension leads. It's like the enlightenment never happened.
I've got copper line alpha on all my kit and chord power lead on amp, and each time the picture or sound or both was improve a lot, i got the most improvement from upgrading power cables. I really was amazed at the difference. But you know you dont have to believe me, but why would i make it up, i would get nothing from that. It really is worth investment in this area to get the most noticeable improvement. Try it yourself.
fayeanddavid:
PJPro:The fuse in the plug should be about protecting the cable, not the attached device (which should have its own fuse).
Therefore the supplier should be fitting the appropriate fuse for the cross sectional area of the cable, it should not be your call!
Exactly.
PJPro:The fuse in the plug should be about protecting the cable, not the attached device (which should have its own fuse).
Therefore the supplier should be fitting the appropriate fuse for the cross sectional area of the cable, it should not be your call!
Exactly.
PJPro:fayeanddavid:
PJPro:The fuse in the plug should be about protecting the cable, not the attached device (which should have its own fuse).
Therefore the supplier should be fitting the appropriate fuse for the cross sectional area of the cable, it should not be your call!
Exactly.
"Rated at a massive 26A this high specification cost-effective power
cable is capable of powering both front-end components and powerful
amplifiers"
That'll be a 26A fuse then.
PJPro:The fuse in the plug should be about protecting the cable, not the attached device (which should have its own fuse).
Therefore the supplier should be fitting the appropriate fuse for the cross sectional area of the cable, it should not be your call!
Exactly.
"Rated at a massive 26A this high specification cost-effective power
cable is capable of powering both front-end components and powerful
amplifiers"
That'll be a 26A fuse then.
With you there PJProm, the fuse in the plug only protects the cable.
It is a legal requirement in the UK to fit fuses to plugs.
The smaller the Amp rating the more it will strangle the flow of current. So there you go.
It is a legal requirement in the UK to fit fuses to plugs.
The smaller the Amp rating the more it will strangle the flow of current. So there you go.
"the more it will strangle the flow of current." . You've lost me there - can you please explain exactly what you mean?
As someone once said "ye cannae change the laws of physics"
My Sony amp has a theoretical output of 7x100w. However, there's no way it can deliver that simultaneously to all channels as the internal power supply isn't up to it (this is what NAD harp on about when they claim their amps are more powerful - they put bigger power supplys on them). This is backed up by the specs which list the peak power consumption as 360W. 360W is 1.5 Amps at 240V. Since that's the highest current the internal cabling is rated to take there will be an (internal) fuse on the Amp to prevent a higher current flowing and melting the amps insides.
This is basic physics now but running a current through a wire generates heat - this is how an electric fire works and why a light bulb gets hot.
It doesn't matter whether you use the cable that comes with the Amp or one with conductors the size of a baby's arm - that Amp will not draw more than 1.5A and that's a pretty piddlng amount of power (about a third of a hair dryer for example).
Those cables look beautifully made - they're a work of art - but they make no difference to the power getting to your equipment.
As someone once said "ye cannae change the laws of physics"
My Sony amp has a theoretical output of 7x100w. However, there's no way it can deliver that simultaneously to all channels as the internal power supply isn't up to it (this is what NAD harp on about when they claim their amps are more powerful - they put bigger power supplys on them). This is backed up by the specs which list the peak power consumption as 360W. 360W is 1.5 Amps at 240V. Since that's the highest current the internal cabling is rated to take there will be an (internal) fuse on the Amp to prevent a higher current flowing and melting the amps insides.
This is basic physics now but running a current through a wire generates heat - this is how an electric fire works and why a light bulb gets hot.
It doesn't matter whether you use the cable that comes with the Amp or one with conductors the size of a baby's arm - that Amp will not draw more than 1.5A and that's a pretty piddlng amount of power (about a third of a hair dryer for example).
Those cables look beautifully made - they're a work of art - but they make no difference to the power getting to your equipment.
not exactly right mate,
the fuse doesnt strangle the flow of current at all. It will simply just blow if the current exceeds its rating. Its always a good idea to protect your equipment externally too. If you have to open up your kit to change a fuse you will loose your warranty. If you have too small fuse in the plug it will just blow, it will not strangle the flow of current. If you work out the correct size of fuse the device requires by dividing watts by volts, then it will protect your expensive, warranty protected, device and wont strangle the current flow.
the fuse doesnt strangle the flow of current at all. It will simply just blow if the current exceeds its rating. Its always a good idea to protect your equipment externally too. If you have to open up your kit to change a fuse you will loose your warranty. If you have too small fuse in the plug it will just blow, it will not strangle the flow of current. If you work out the correct size of fuse the device requires by dividing watts by volts, then it will protect your expensive, warranty protected, device and wont strangle the current flow.
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