Vladimir said:
A lot of meaningless things in domestic hi-fi. In the pro world it is clear, the amplifier should be equal to twice the speaker power rating.
How do I choose the right amplifier power for my speaker system?
- Ideally you should pick an amplifier that can deliver power equal to twice the speaker's continuous IEC power rating. This means that a speaker with a "nominal impedance" of 8 ohms and a continuous IEC power rating of 350 watts will require an amplifier that can produce 700 watts into an 8 ohm load. For a stereo pair of speakers, the amplifier should be rated at 700 watts per channel into 8 ohms.
Source: JBL Pro FAQ
BTW, manufacturer's
Recommended Amplifier Power and
Speaker Power Rating are two different things.
Still not exactly cut and dried, even in the pro world and a complete nonsence when applied to hi-fi.
JBL measure the power handling using the IEC system, 'shaped' pink noise used to drive the speaker long term. This is pretty demanding and most hi-fi speaker systems would have very low power handling measured in this way. The distortion limit is not specified because it is different for speakers with different applications.
I doubt if any hi-fi speakers are tested in this may, maybe some B&W or PMC, but only those units with a non hi-fi, 'pro' application. Most manufactures just take the ratings from the driver manufacturer and use that and, frankly, it is as good as anything.
For many years they have relied on the fact that their products will be used to play recorded music, with a reasonable dynamic range, say 20db, in a domestic setup. Ie a 100wpc amplifier will have a peak power of around 140 watts, and with that dynamic range the maximun average power delivered by the amplifier will be 14watts. Any competent hi-fi speaker will handle that.
The problem arises when modern, heavily compressed bass heavy music is played on the same setup. In this case, with say a dynamic range of 6db, the maximum average power being delivered is around 70 watts, big difference. Note that in both cases the peak levels are the same.
Throw in the differences in speaker sensitivity, the ridiculous setup of amplifier volume controls (discussed elsewhere, at some length) and it is easy to see why power ratings are, in the case of speakers in particular, practically useless