Speaker power.What rating should speakers be in relation to Amp power?

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Vladimir

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Dec 26, 2013
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robg1976 said:
read my other post power in watts in not just factor power supply and other factors play a part. i have owned 40 watt nad amp that will drive speakers than a sony 200w amp

Remember the model names of those two amps?
 

lindsayt

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Apr 8, 2011
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Sparks, one thing to check. Your Marantz amp to Pioneer speakers. The combination that sounds thin compared to your old Pioneer amp. Are you 100% sure you've got the speakers wired in phase with the Marantz?

It's something that is quick and easy to check. I can tell you how to check if you don't already know.
 

sparks68

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Oct 18, 2014
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Lidsay, if by in phase you mean wired + to + and - to - yes all is well. Here to learn though ,what is your test?
 

Tannoyed

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Aug 6, 2014
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As others have said it would be safer to use a higher power amp than the specified rating of the speaker.

If you use a low power amp and run it flat out you will not realise immediately that the output stage is clipping and squaring off all those lovely sine waves. These square waves contain odd harmonics which extend well up the frequency range. These harmonics will destroy your tweeters if played for extended periods and you won't notice them unless they get severe, particularly with complicated sounds where there is a lot going on.

If you use a high power amp your ears will tell you when you are being over enthusiatic with the volume control. If you use a low power one they may not.
 
D

Deleted member 108165

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Tannoyed said:
As others have said it would be safer to use a higher power amp than the specified rating of the speaker.

If you use a low power amp and run it flat out you will not realise immediately that the output stage is clipping and squaring off all those lovely sine waves. These square waves contain odd harmonics which extend well up the frequency range. These harmonics will destroy your tweeters if played for extended periods and you won't notice them unless they get severe, particularly with complicated sounds where there is a lot going on.

If you use a high power amp your ears will tell you when you are being over enthusiatic with the volume control. If you use a low power one they may not.

But as Sparks has already stated he does not listen at anywhere near high volume so any amp would do whether it be 35W or 200W output. My amp is rated at 70W but using tables on the internet I barely use 10W of its available power to generate the volume I listen at. Sparks requirements have very little to do with output required, more to do with synergy of amp/speakers.
 

Vladimir

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[font="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"]What is "Signal Burn"?[/font] Signal burn is a failure mode where the voice coil is burnt across its entire width, indicating uniform voice coil travel with respect to the stationary magnet structure. Such a burn pattern is not indicative of amplifier malfunction but instead is due to excessive signal or program level. The cause is simply trying to get more from the speaker than it is capable of delivering.

[font="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"]What is "DC Burn"?[/font] DC (direct-current) burn is a failure mode where the voice coil is burnt only at one end. This is an indication that it has been traveling in one direction more than the other. Since the transfer of heat is from the voice coil to the adjacent magnet and metal parts, the voice coil will be burnt on the end that stays the farthest away from the top plate.
[*][font="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"]Woofers: When a DC burn pattern appears on the voice coil of a woofer, the problem will be due to a fault in the associated electronic equipment. Most likely, the power amplifier has leaky or shorted transistors that are allowing its internal power supply voltages to be applied directly to the loudspeaker or loudspeaker system.[/font][*][font="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"]Midrange and Tweeter: When a DC burn pattern is observed on the voice coil of such devices, it DOES NOT always mean that the amplifier is faulty. In systems with passive crossovers, mid and high frequency drivers are protected from DC by the cross-over. The most likely cause of DC-like burns is an overdriven amplifier.[/font][*][font="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"]When an amplifier receives an input signal capable of driving it beyond its power rating, the result is clipping. This means that the negative and positive peaks of the amplifier's output signal are "clipped" off. The amplifier may also clip in an asymmetrical fashion, meaning that the positive side of the signal is clipped more than the negative (or vice versa). When subjected to an asymmetrical clipped waveform, one end of the loudspeaker's voice coil is "on average" spending more time outside of the gap (corresponding to the direction that is clipped) than the other. The end of the coil that is spending more time outside of the gap has poor heat transfer to the magnet structure. As a result, it overheats and burns.[/font][/list]
[font="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"]
[/font]

[font="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"]Source: JBL Pro FAQ[/font]
 

lindsayt

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sparks68 said:
Lidsay, if by in phase you mean wired + to + and - to - yes all is well. Here to learn though ,what is your test?
OK, that's fine if all the + and - connections are as they should be. I suppose you never know if someone at the factory wired the speaker terminals incorrectly inside the amp. Or if someone has modded the amp and mixed the wiring up. So it's always worth double checking.

There are at least 2 ways to check that your speakers are in phase.

1 with a test disk. Usually you have a person speaking, with the recording being in phase and then out of phase. It's easy to spot the out of phase one as it sounds as if the person is all over the space between your speakers instead of standing centrally between them.

2 place both speakers very close to each other - about 1 cm apart - with the bass cones facing each other. Play some music. Switch the amp off. Reverse the + and - connections on one speaker only, leaving all amp connections as they were. Switch the amp back on. Play the same piece of music. The in phase arrangement is the one with the most bass.
 

Native_bon

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Nov 26, 2008
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How many times on forums have I seen people assuming, if someone does not like the sound of a settup there must be something wrong with it. 99% of the time it turns out the person does not like the sound. Course they brought items or an item with very good reviews which does not necessary work together as a whole.

Get the system right first then you can go on to make other adjustments to make the system sound better. Not the other way round. If you do this right in the first place you will not have to put up with so much tech jargon that often puts alot of people off reading these pages.
 

sparks68

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Oct 18, 2014
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Whilst I get what you are saying ,I'm sure that I am not alone in not being flush enough to walk into a HiFi shop and pick exactly what I like.I just dont have the budget .Even buying a couple of units 2nd hand I am relying on plastic to pay. Unless you are lucky enough to have walked into someones house and see and hear a used set up you like and just go and duplicate it cheaply with used equipment there is going to be some trial and error .

It could be I just don't like the sound I've ended up with ,but equaly having bought a 2nd hand amp Lindsay may have a valid point about something wrong inside ,also I could also just be an idiot and crossed wires .

Me I'm grateful of all the advice ,even when much of it has gone above my head being quite technical .But I have read and learned much. Not everyones cup of tea I know .

I guess if you don't like reading techy stuff its best to start your own thread , pose a question you want answering specifying you don't want to get deeply technical. Other than that if you are asking advice ,just roll with it .People are trying to help after all ,even if the answer does'nt come in the form you would prefer.
 

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