Speaker plugs/pins

grdunn123

Well-known member
Sep 24, 2007
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I've been out of the hifi loop for about 10 years now for various reasons but have recently bought an amp and floorstanders and some decent speaker cable.What happened to 4mm banana plugs??? I bought a coupl and fitted them but they don't fit in to the sockets any more! What do I need to use (other than bare cable) to make a good connection?

HELP!
 

professorhat

Well-known member
Dec 28, 2007
992
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It's fairly rare that speakers / amps won't accept banana plugs - is it that there is a bung in there blocking the hole or is that it genuinely doesn't fit? If it's the bung, this is because, banana plugs are actually banned under EU law (as they are exactly the same size as the plug sockets they use on the continent) but you should be able to prise out the bung with some sniper noes pliers or a screwdriver and use them as normal.
If they genuinely don't fit, then your best bet is contacting the manufacturer and seeing what options they offer.
 

fr0g

New member
Jan 7, 2008
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professorhat:It's fairly rare that speakers / amps won't accept banana plugs - is it that there is a bung in there blocking the hole or is that it genuinely doesn't fit? If it's the bung, this is because, banana plugs are actually banned under EU law (as they are exactly the same size as the plug sockets they use on the continent) but you should be able to prise out the bung with some sniper noes pliers or a screwdriver and use them as normal.
If they genuinely don't fit, then your best bet is contacting the manufacturer and seeing what options they offer.

Prof, have you a source for the 'EU law' As far as I know banana plugs are quite legal. The only problem is the 'double banana plug' which is very similar to the electrical plug socket.
We have these Schuko sockets here in Sweden, but I have no problem obtaining banana plugs, and my amplifier hasn't the bungs (sourced here).
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
The relevant standard is EN 60065:1998 replaced by EN 60065:2002.

It was concerned with the fact that a 4mm (or smaller) cable mounted plugs can be fitted into a mainland European style power socket. There were many workarounds in the beginning, one being the BFA connector as implemented by Arcam (who led the way in its development - John Dawson being a past Chairman of the BFA).

The most popular current method is to plug connectors with a bung whose removal requires a tool. i.e. It should not be removable by hand. Many companies keep the 19mm centre spacing of terminals to accommodate connectors like the Naim one, even though this is common with some European plugs and power sockets.

You will see this standard referred to on the CE self-declaration found in all audio/visual equipment sold in Europe.

Maybe John can add some clarification if he happens to drop by this way.
hth
Gary

btw: if you really want to read the standard, you'll have to stump up a couple of hundred quid to buy it.
 

Cofnchtr

Well-known member
Oct 4, 2007
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18,590
Hi,

I have a similar issue with a Yamaha 757SE - what's the easiest way to remove the bungs as these seem to be part of the binding post. Looks like the only way to get them out is to break them. You can see a thin piece of plastic around the outside edge (almost like an airfix kit fixing if you know what I mean).

Thanks.

Cheers,

Cofnchtr.
 

Andrew Everard

New member
May 30, 2007
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Depending on the design, a pen-knife blade and lever them out, needle-nose pliers and pull them out or, if they have a small hole in the centre, twist in a suitable screw - only finger-tight - , and then pull out with the bung using pliers.
 

a.g.

New member
May 30, 2008
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Andrew Everard:Depending on the design, a pen-knife blade and lever them out, needle-nose pliers and pull them out or, if they have a small hole in the centre, twist in a suitable screw - only finger-tight - , and then pull out with the bung using pliers.

Just thought I should add some advice...

If you're having trouble getting the screw (and it should be a self-tapping screw) to "bite" the plastic bung, counter-sinking the bung with a cross-point screwdriver is beneficial.
 

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