Projector screens

Andrewjvt

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As I have never looked into it
What can I learn about projector screens?

What in the screen effects the picture quality?

Is it just contrast/brightness or is it the resolution also?
 
Lot of factors to help you decide which is the best screen for you:

1) Are you able to completely blackout your room? Are the walls painted dark? If not, you’ll need a screen suitable for ambient light like Draper ReAct.

2) Screen size depends on viewing distance.

3) If you’re primarily going to watch movies, then 2.35:1 aspect ratio may suit better than 16:9 ratio, which would eliminate black bars above and below. However, if you’re going to watch TV programmes including sports, then 16:9 ratio may be better.

4) Acoustically transparent screen would suit if you’re planning to have speakers behind the screen.
 

abacus

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The screen is as important as the projector, (It’s the equivalent of the speakers in a sound system, get it wrong and you will not get the best) so don’t skimp on it.

Choose your projector first, then talk to your dealer who will be able to recommend a screen that is within your budget, and will give you the best performance in your room with the projector you have. (Different projector technology’s work better with some screens then others)

Bill
 

Andrewjvt

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I keep the projector for movies at night only and have a TV on for normal TV and sports so it will be able to be dark I suspect.

I may want to watch the rugby on the big screen though and that is normally around 4pm UK time
 

ellisdj

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fixed non acoustically transparent screens are pretty cheap for still great performance. You can even DIY it.

it starts getting expensive when you want motorized drop down - or specific material to combat ambient light to improve contrast.

If your not blacking the room out then a light rejecting screen will be the difference between good picture and very washed out picture.

Things to think about is picture ratio - most movies are 21:10 ratio thats your black bars top and bottom on a tv.

You can with a projector oversize the image so you get a bigger image and the black bars are projected above and below the screen. This is amazing for movie content however you need to be mindful of how light reflective the front wall is. Ideally you want it dark and light absorbing if possible for this type of screen ratio
 

Benedict_Arnold

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bigboss said:
Lot of factors to help you decide which is the best screen for you:

1) Are you able to completely blackout your room? Are the walls painted dark? If not, you’ll need a screen suitable for ambient light like Draper ReAct.

How much lihgt is "too much" and will a little bit of light shining round a door really matter? After all, cinemas (well, all of those except, perhaps, the "private viewing only" genre sterotypically used by old men in dirty Macintoshes, aren't completely blacked out.

bigboss said:
2) Screen size depends on viewing distance.

But like the actress said to the bishop... It's important to realize, however, that most PJs have a distance / screen size relationship, as the lenses can only "spread out" the light so far. Also remember the human eye has a finite angle of attention before it gets into peripheral vision. You want the screen action to be concentrated about +/- 15 degrees off centreline, maybe +/- 30 at a push. 30 degrees (2 x 15) is 1 in 1.73, say 1 in 2 in round numbers, meaning for every 1 foot of total screen width the viewer needs to be 2 feet back or they'll be turning their heads like the spectators on Wimbledon Centre Court. Finally, I think, there'll be a simple scientific correlation between how bright the image is compared to the screen size. Focus all the light onto a small area and it's bound to be brighter (I think) than if focused over a much wider area.

bigboss said:
3) If you’re primarily going to watch movies, then 2.35:1 aspect ratio may suit better than 16:9 ratio, which would eliminate black bars above and below. However, if you’re going to watch TV programmes including sports, then 16:9 ratio may be better.

A 2.35:1 screen will give you the tallest 16:9 picture with black bars at the sides. A 16:9 screen will give you the same height 16:9 image, but a 2.35:1 movie image on a 16:9 screen won't be as tall. It'll be wider, yes, but you'll have black bars top and bottom. Therefore go for the 2.35:1 if you can. Measure available space height as well as width then decide.

bigboss said:
4) Acoustically transparent screen would suit if you’re planning to have speakers behind the screen.

Agreed. And putting the centre channel speaker behind the screen is a perferable by far to having a soundbar of sp[eaker below the screen IMHO.

Final comment: like everything, there's a lot of snake oil attached to screen materials and well worth doing your homework before making an expensive mistake. Look at the frame construction as well. Can you assemble it and tighten the screen properly yourself or is this a real pain in the derriere?
 

ellisdj

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the best cinema are properly blacked out - the rest deliver a very compromised image which is unnaceptable when you think about it except the public dont realise so they get away with it. An Enthusiast will be bothered by a poor black level or average contrast picture.

Anything in your peripheral vision is also a hinderance to the movie watching experience - you do need to be ultra commited to sort this one out
 

abacus

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ellisdj said:
the best cinema are properly blacked out - the rest deliver a very compromised image which is unnaceptable when you think about it except the public dont realise so they get away with it. An Enthusiast will be bothered by a poor black level or average contrast picture.

Anything in your peripheral vision is also a hinderance to the movie watching experience - you do need to be ultra commited to sort this one out

Public Cinemas have to meet the Fire Safety Regulations, which means there always has to be some light so that in the event of fire the eyes can still focus so that you can find your way out. (Nothing to do with short changing the public)

Bill
 

Andrewjvt

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Ok thanks for all the info.

Question
If I don't have a blackened out specific room available
Would it almost as good if I only use it at night when it's totally dark?
More info on this would help.
 

Benedict_Arnold

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abacus said:
ellisdj said:
the best cinema are properly blacked out - the rest deliver a very compromised image which is unnaceptable when you think about it except the public dont realise so they get away with it.  An Enthusiast will be bothered by a poor black level or average contrast picture.

 

Anything in your peripheral vision is also a hinderance to the movie watching experience - you do need to be ultra commited to sort this one out 

Public Cinemas have to meet the Fire Safety Regulations, which means there always has to be some light so that in the event of fire the eyes can still focus so that you can find your way out. (Nothing to do with short changing the public)

Bill
I was thinking that too. Strikes me that unless you're really really serious (and are prepared to live down an old mine) you're going to have to put up with a little light....
 

ellisdj

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abacus said:
ellisdj said:
the best cinema are properly blacked out - the rest deliver a very compromised image which is unnaceptable when you think about it except the public dont realise so they get away with it. An Enthusiast will be bothered by a poor black level or average contrast picture.

Anything in your peripheral vision is also a hinderance to the movie watching experience - you do need to be ultra commited to sort this one out

Public Cinemas have to meet the Fire Safety Regulations, which means there always has to be some light so that in the event of fire the eyes can still focus so that you can find your way out. (Nothing to do with short changing the public)

Bill

Its not even a green fire exit light that is an issue - at least not in my local cinema - they havent even masked around the screen - you can see reflected image all round the screen - this is terrible for a professional situation.

Worse one film I went to recently they had the wrong image ratio on the screen and no masking - at least in the old days they had curtains that opened and closed to adjust the ratio / mask the image.

Was I the only guy in there who even noticed probably, have I been back since nope.

The cinema experience should be the ultimate expression of a cinema experience - not a half baked shocker like this

By all accounts the Dolby Cinemas do it right - I would to go to one - my local cinema is awful
 

ellisdj

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Andrewjvt said:
Ok thanks for all the info.

Question If I don't have a blackened out specific room available Would it almost as good if I only use it at night when it's totally dark? More info on this would help.

Hi Andrew it doesnt work like that - when you install a projector screen you install a massive light reflector and in some cases amplifier.

You shine even a phone screen at it and see how much ambient light there is in the room, that reflected ambient light bounces off the screen reflects off all the walls and back onto the screen washing out the image - reducing contrast basically.

Now amplifiy the phone screen light to an insane bright bulb and the issue becomes a serious reality.

In a light room you will want a light rejecting screen - these work by reflecting parts of the light in a different plain so not straight back out and help to improve contrast.

If you want a great demonstration watch videos on Screen Innovations Black Diamond - they show the issue perfectly.

Now no such thing as a free lunch - first issue with light rejecting is the image wont be as bright - now brightness in a projector image is really important as it helps with image sharpness.

2 screens from the same company one will have a sharper brighter and more LCD like image, the other a softer more plasma like image, but it wont be as punchy and crisp just by how they reflect light. This is referred to as gain but there is also more to it - I think more so with AT Screens, like anything some are better than others.

You will want a brighter projector with a light rejecting screen ideally, not normally an issue with modern light cannons but worth pointing out as higher brightness means more fan noise for example

The other issue with light rejecting screens, a bigger one they didnt use to make them Acoustically Transparent - otherwise I would have bought one.

They might do now days but it wont be cheap
 

Andrewjvt

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ellisdj said:
Andrewjvt said:
Ok thanks for all the info.

Question If I don't have a blackened out specific room available Would it almost as good if I only use it at night when it's totally dark? More info on this would help.

Hi Andrew it doesnt work like that - when you install a projector screen you install a massive light reflector and in some cases amplifier.

You shine even a phone screen at it and see how much ambient light there is in the room, that reflected ambient light bounces off the screen reflects off all the walls and back onto the screen washing out the image - reducing contrast basically.

Now amplifiy the phone screen light to an insane bright bulb and the issue becomes a serious reality.

In a light room you will want a light rejecting screen - these work by reflecting parts of the light in a different plain so not straight back out and help to improve contrast.

If you want a great demonstration watch videos on Screen Innovations Black Diamond - they show the issue perfectly.

 

Now no such thing as a free lunch - first issue with light rejecting is the image wont be as bright - now brightness in a projector image is really important as it helps with image sharpness.

2 screens from the same company one will have a sharper brighter and more LCD like image, the other a softer more plasma like image, but it wont be as punchy and crisp just by how they reflect light.  This is referred to as gain but there is also more to it - I think more so with AT Screens, like anything some are better than others.

You will want a brighter projector with a light rejecting screen ideally, not normally an issue with modern light cannons but worth pointing out as higher brightness means more fan noise for example

 

The other issue with light rejecting screens, a bigger one they didnt use to make them Acoustically Transparent - otherwise I would have bought one.

They might do now days but it wont be cheap 

I've been watching loads of YouTube videos demonstrating the different models of same manufacturers side by side and have learnt a lot.

A lot of dimmer spec projectors seem to have better colour and other sacrifice colour balance for brighter whites.

I'm going to keep researching then arrange a demonstration of a few.

It all.comes to what is realistic within a cheap budget though.

I'm hoping that the cheaper Lazer projectors come down in price.
 

ellisdj

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I think laser projectors will hold the higher prices for longer than bulbs - they are the new buzz in projectors really.

In saying that if they bring out new models each year the older models reduce in price same as everything.

I think a lot people are waiting for affordable 4k laser projectors from JVC and Sony but thats 5 years away at least, if we even see it at all.
 

ellisdj

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It might be an idea to get your screen first then pick the best projector for the screen - i.e. see how much budget you have left after an AT Light rejecting screen at the size you want.

Pay attention to contrast ratio numbers in particular ansi contrast
 

Benedict_Arnold

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So what's the relationship between light rejection and gain? Does a low gain screen reREJECT (rather than reFLECT) more undesired, repeat undesired, light?

All of this and the prices still demanded for genuine 400k (not faux-K) PJ's and bits of high tech cloth in a picture frame keep pushing me back to waiting for 100 ish inch barebones 4K TV's to come down to under $10K... J can get an 85 incher now for what I paid for a 55 incher back in 2013 or 14 after all...
 

Andrewjvt

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bigboss said:
What's your budget?

I don't really have a budget
And never do
If I think something is worth it I'll get it
But I have higher priority than TV so I'd try and get cheap as possible.
I like the look of the optoma uhd51 at £1499
 

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