NAD D3020 repair

Timbot

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Evening all. Looking for some advice.
My 5 year old was prattimg about and knocked my D3020 off the TV stand and it bounced off the floor. Everything works apart from the fact you get no sound out of it (speakers or headphones) no matter how loud you turn the volume. I'm guessing (and I'm only guessing) that it could be the pre amp which is done for as if it was the power amp I assume you would get some noise out from the pre amp but I guess it could be anything along the signal pathway.
He has knocked it over once before and the same happened, however after dismantling and pushing all connectors etc in it worked again. This time no such luck.
The NAD website says to contact your distributor (which is Sevenoaks Sound and Vision in the UK) for a list of repairs, however I wonder if anyone on here has any other suggestions for possible 3rd party repair. Many thanks in advance for any suggestioms.
P.S. I use it mainly for the TV so I'll make sure I leave the TV speakers turned off in settings. A few days / weeks of no sound from the TV may encourage him to be more careful in future...
 
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I think it would Be cheaper for you just to buy a new one I’m afraid. They’d just replace the entire board I suspect. And I suspect it would be an uneconomical repair.
 

Timbot

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I think it would Be cheaper for you just to buy a new one I’m afraid. They’d just replace the entire board I suspect. And I suspect it would be an uneconomical repair.
I did wonder if that may be the case.
I've found the service manual online so I may have a look myself. If its destined for the skip as it is then I may as well have more of a tinker and see what happens. When the sound doesn't work it makes little difference if the power and the lights stop working!
 
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Gray

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.....it's probably beyond economic repair, as they say these days.
No doubt it is said more these days.
I started in repairs 40+ years ago. Of course repairing to component level was the norm, but even then we wrote 'BER' on the jobsheet quite often due to customer inflicted drops / floods etc.
No consolation to the poor OP, who's got everything working.....except the sound.
 

Timbot

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No doubt it is said more these days.
I started in repairs 40+ years ago. Of course repairing to component level was the norm, but even then we wrote 'BER' on the jobsheet quite often due to customer inflicted drops / floods etc.
No consolation to the poor OP, who's got everything working.....except the sound.
The lights come on and the Bluetooth connects. What more could you possibly want? Actual sound is definitely a luxury!
(Incidentally I meant it wasn't completely dead and actually did power up.)
 

Gray

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The lights come on and the Bluetooth connects. What more could you possibly want? Actual sound is definitely a luxury!
(Incidentally I meant it wasn't completely dead and actually did power up.)
I knew what you meant 👍
As you said, nothing to lose by having a look inside, with any luck you'll find something obvious. Check for cracked PCB in any places where heavier components are mounted on it.
 

Timbot

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I knew what you meant 👍
As you said, nothing to lose by having a look inside, with any luck you'll find something obvious. Check for cracked PCB in any places where heavier components are mounted on it.
That's a good pointer. Thanks for that.
Looking at the inside last night and at the diagrams and parts list it may be possible to get single sections to replace any faulty bits. The service manual is pretty comprehensive with flow diagrams for diagnosis and output voltages for each stage as well as full wiring diagrams for each section. If I can isolate it to a particular section then hopefully I can get my hands on the offending item and replace just that part. May make it more economically viable. If I can get a droning hum out of it it's better than it was. If I can get proper sound out of it then even better! Wish me luck...
 

Gray

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That's a good pointer. Thanks for that.
Looking at the inside last night and at the diagrams and parts list it may be possible to get single sections to replace any faulty bits. The service manual is pretty comprehensive with flow diagrams for diagnosis and output voltages for each stage as well as full wiring diagrams for each section. If I can isolate it to a particular section then hopefully I can get my hands on the offending item and replace just that part. May make it more economically viable. If I can get a droning hum out of it it's better than it was. If I can get proper sound out of it then even better! Wish me luck...
You're off to a good start with a decent service manual. With no sound at all, concentrate on areas common to both channels - which the manual should identify.
I do wish you luck but I'm optimistic for you - let us know when you fix it (see, there's no if about it, you will!)
 
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Gray

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I have a C375BEE integrated that I bought awhile back that I like quite a bit. Built a new house, so my system was in boxes for awhile. Finally finished the house, so I unpacked my system and bought the MDC DAC 2.0 card from Crutchfield to add to my amp. I specifically bought this DAC so I could stream from iTunes via the USB input on the DAC. Installed the DAC, and right away noticed a significant buzz ONLY on the USB input (buzz rises/falls in step w/ volume). Tried the phono and optical inputs on the DAC, and they are fine, no buzz.







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If you haven't already done it, try another USB source.
(Regardless of whether the buzzing source is OK into other devices).
 

Timbot

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If you haven't already done it, try another USB source.
(Regardless of whether the buzzing source is OK into other devices).

Saw this thread back at the top and thought someone was checking to see how I'd got on and I would be ashamed to admit that I haven't even started yet!

Thanks goodness that isn't the case!
 

Timbot

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Well... it's me again! Just four years later.
Have a reason to look at the D3020 again as I'd ideally like to use it for a computer based system in a hole office (TV plugged into a Naim Muso since 2020 and KEF floorstanders have gone so the D3020 has been in a box in the cupboard since then).
Powered it up last night again to see what was going on. The headphone out was working fine as well as the left speaker out, but not the right speaker out (neither the headphone out or either of the speaker outs were working when it went in the box four years ago- go figure).
Opened it up and had a bit of a rummage round- to be honest it's somewhat beyond me and I'm concerned I may cause more damage than I fix. Put it back together and the headphone out was working but neither speaker out was working any more (see earlier comment about causing more damage than I can fix!)

Will send an update in another four years- it'll likely be much the same! 🤣
 

Gray

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Well... it's me again! Just four years later.
Have a reason to look at the D3020 again as I'd ideally like to use it for a computer based system in a hole office (TV plugged into a Naim Muso since 2020 and KEF floorstanders have gone so the D3020 has been in a box in the cupboard since then).
Powered it up last night again to see what was going on. The headphone out was working fine as well as the left speaker out, but not the right speaker out (neither the headphone out or either of the speaker outs were working when it went in the box four years ago- go figure).
Opened it up and had a bit of a rummage round- to be honest it's somewhat beyond me and I'm concerned I may cause more damage than I fix. Put it back together and the headphone out was working but neither speaker out was working any more (see earlier comment about causing more damage than I can fix!)

Will send an update in another four years- it'll likely be much the same! 🤣
I didn't think anyone could rival my lack of urgency - but you're coming close Timbot.

At least, from what you say, there's hope there - if you're anywhere near South Essex I'd have a go at it 👍
 

Timbot

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I didn't think anyone could rival my lack of urgency - but you're coming close Timbot.

At least, from what you say, there's hope there - if you're anywhere near South Essex I'd have a go at it 👍
I'm afraid not- Cumbria for me so can't get much further away than that without crossing the border!

Given my lack of urgency / ability / will power I'm tempted to keep it as a headphone amplifier- at least that bit still works at the moment. Most difficult part seems to be working out how to dismantle all the boards! Getting the casing off is easy enough but then it becomes a bit of a mine field.

Can I still blame Covid for the delay in getting it sorted? (Lots of others still blame that so may be able to still jump on that band wagon!)
 
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Din5

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I wonder if it could be something as simple as dirty sprung metal connections within the headphone jack socket ? which may be the reason for intermittent sound via phones or speaker. Best if you can gain access to clean these terminals internally, or if not possible, try a cotton bud stick soaked in IPA or meths to clean them by inserting the bud stick right into the headphone jack hole. Let it all dry before testing.
Worth a try ?
 

Timbot

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Jun 7, 2010
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I wonder if it could be something as simple as dirty sprung metal connections within the headphone jack socket ? which may be the reason for intermittent sound via phones or speaker. Best if you can gain access to clean these terminals internally, or if not possible, try a cotton bud stick soaked in IPA or meths to clean them by inserting the bud stick right into the headphone jack hole. Let it all dry before testing.
Worth a try ?
Definitely worth a punt! I've got some very fine (3mm dia) applicator brushes from another job I did a year or two back so will dig these out and have a try.

I've been sitting tonight watching people test circuit boards with multimeters on internet video channels. It's over 20 years since my A-level physics and I wasn't overly attentive back then! Should have paid more attention...
 

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