How to wire new speakers and what with please?

[admin_exported]

Following on from a previous thread I have managed to source some Monitor Audio RS6s to go with my A85.

Thanks for all the help with that! Am just waiting for them to arrive now!

It has been years since I have had to wire speakers, although I have had to re-wire my curent ones of course, they were bi-wirable. I am not going to do that with these at first and not at all if necessary.

So which is the best way to connect?

Also what is the recommended cable? Silver Anniversary?

Many thanks.

 

[Anonymous]

PS

I know it is a real simple(ton?) question, but this is where I come to get hi fi answers full stop.

Sorry... 🙂

 

[CnoEvil]

If you get stuck (which is unlikely to be honest), you should be able to get the manual on-line.

The positive (red/+) from the amp goes to the positive (red/+) on the speaker.
The negative (black/-) from amp to negative on speaker.

There should be similar markings on the cable.

As for makes, my favorites are Atlas and Telurium Q.

 

[Overdose]

What he said.

Van Damme do some reasonably priced cable, the thickest that you can squeeze in your binding posts the better. Leave the ends unterminated, ie without plugs for the most secure attachment

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the replies, however I was more concerned with the HF / LF thing? Which sets to use on the amp/speakers.

Unterminated? Really, I was going to lump some plugs/connectors on the ends too. Will leave them out of the equation then.

Cheers.

 

[Gerrardasnails]

Thanks for the replies, however I was more concerned with the HF / LF thing? Which sets to use on the amp/speakers.

Unterminated? Really, I was going to lump some plugs/connectors on the ends too. Will leave them out of the equation then.

Cheers.

It does

It doesn't matter LF or HF as long as you have the brass binding posts connected to them. Ignore the previous suggestion that bare wire is more secure than banana plugs or spades. They are handy to use if you need to unplug them from time to time.

 

[Blackdawn]

If you plan on changing your system around often then terminating the end is a good idea because its so much easier to swap over the connections. However, if not I would use the wire unterminated.

Also I doubt you will find an improvement if you bi-wire your system, it just means your going to need twice as much cable(twice as expensive). Make sure you have eaqual length going to each channel (left and right) so that the signal has the same distance to travel on both sides also another tip is to buy a little bit more cable than you calculate to allow for going around corners in rooms etc

The HF LF just means high and low frequency. You often have 4 terminals on each speaker with a jumper connection between HF and LF for both left and right. However, as I have said you don't need to bi-wire your speakers. most people can't notice any difference. Make sure you have the jumper connection still present between the H and L terminals for both L and R.

 

[Blackdawn]

I'm happy with thick copper cable. You shouldn't need anyting thicker than 4mm.

 

[CnoEvil]

I would wire the amp to the LF terminals, and get links made from whatever speaker wire you end up getting (ie to replace cheap links provided).

Personally, I would terminate the ends of the speaker cable - which makes connection easier, prevents corrosion, and stops stray wires causing grief. What OD says is not wrong, but a matter of opinion.

If you get the ends properly terminated, I doubt that you would hear a difference. The worthwhile improvement comes with replacing the supplied cheap links/jumpers.

Edit: sorry for repitition, but my typing is so slow that 3 replies came in meanwhile.

 

[Overdose]

Just a quick not to those that like to terminate cables. Terminated ends mean more connections/joints in a run (at least twice as many in fact) and therefore more potential problems.

Banana plugs come in many different designs and they don't all have the same surface contact or security in the post plugs. In addition, most banan plugs are just grub screw connections clamping the wire inside the housing anyway.

If using nice chunky speaker cable you could just strip off an extra few inches and thread through LF and HF binding posts, doing away with the jumper strip altogether.

Terminated for convenience if repeatedly connecting/disconnecting kit.

Non terminated for a more permanent installation.

Not just an opinion, but more a matter of fact.

 

[Blackdawn]

Just a quick not to those that like to terminate cables. Terminated ends mean more connections/joints in a run (at least twice as many in fact) and therefore more potential problems.

Banana plugs come in many different designs and they don't all have the same surface contact or security in the post plugs. In addition, most banan plugs are just grub screw connections clamping the wire inside the housing anyway.

If using nice chunky speaker cable you could just strip off an extra few inches and thread through LF and HF binding posts, doing away with the jumper strip altogether.

Terminated for convenience if repeatedly connecting/disconnecting kit.

Non terminated for a more permanent installation

Agree with this Overdose. I use bare wire and find it works the best if not regularly changing the system. You can always strip the wires back every five-ten years if you think theres some oxidation of the exposed copper. Always good to buy at least an extra meter of cable to what you think.
.