Book case speakers on stands

[Chris Munden]

Does a standmount speaker need to be coupled or de-coupled with isolation pads from the standmount top plate. My local store says use Blu-tack, but all this does is stick the speaker to the stand and not very firmly. Would very strong double sided sticky foam tape be a better join, I don't want to screw the speaker to the stands because of damaging the wooden enclosure.

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Chris

 

[CnoEvil]

It depends on:

- the construction of the speakers.
- whether the stands are on a suspended wooden floor
- the construction of the stands.

As a rule, speakers usually (but not always), like heavy part filled stands. The filling type and how much the stands are filled, can effect the sound. On a suspended wooden floor, every effort should be made to isolate the stands and speakers from it.

Spikes couple, which is OK if pressed through carpet into concrete. Blu-Tac to a degree, de- couples and is generally helpful.

Experimentation is key.

 

[macdiddy]

try this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-black-strength-adhesive-photographers/dp/B0051BT40K

although when I used blutack to couple my speakers to stands, I never had any problems so long as I used at least 4 ball shaped pieces of it in the corners and left it alone for a week or longer as the wait of the speaker pushing down on the stand compressed the blutack and made it stick better.

*music2*

ps. why did you post your question in the wrong section, should be under "Hifi"

 

[CJSF]

Blu-tack is the best medium to couple speakers to stand. Four small, very small (3mm) pea size, one in each corner 10mm in, position speaker, press HARD down, the Blu-tack will spread to a large paper thin contact area, think suction pad? Years of experimenting has showed this to be the best setup. To remove speaker, twist through its vertical axis, try to pull using the cabinet as a leaver risks tearing the venerre!

As has been mentioned, patialy filled stands work best, trial and error is the only way to establish the best fill, 1/2 to 3/4 full is a good starting point?

There is a lot of missunderstanding regarding floor spikes, originaly conceived by John Michell as a means for a solid standing through the then popular, thick underley/fitted carpet in homes. Works great all that weight on to a tiny point! Problem is the energy in the stand does not transfer into the floor very well . . . think about it, fill a bowl with water, water represents 'energy', drill a 1mm hole in the botton of the bowl, takes for ever to empty. Same senario, bowl/water, drill a 6mm or even 10mm hole, the emptying process is very quick, 'better transfer of energy'? Still not that quick but you get the point.

Spikes are nothihg more than adjustable feet that will damage modern wooden floors. Blunted spikes into cups is the answer for wooden floors, giving the speaker an 'adjustable, solid, rock free standing'. The work of dispersing energy has to be done by and in the stand, filling and patient listening tests required.

Material for filling, there are expensive, commercial offereings, they can work but dried sand seems to do the job OK, dried sand used for block paving gap in-fill is good and cheap.

CJSF

 

[Chris Munden]

Thanks every one for the advice and tips, CJSF, I have carpet over wooden floor boards and my floor standers have spikes which I dig in the boards through the carpet, what is the method you are saying is better and do I need to purchase any more bits.

Chris

 

[CJSF]

Thanks every one for the advice and tips, CJSF, I have carpet over wooden floor boards and my floor standers have spikes which I dig in the boards through the carpet, what is the method you are saying is better and do I need to purchase any more bits.

Chris

Nothing extra required, that is exactly what the spikes are for, to create a 'rigid platform' on the floor boards. Normal non penetrating feet will 'float' on the carpet/underley and alow the speaker/stand to move in sympathy with the moment of the drive unit, not a desirable situation.

What has been described is very basic, much more can be done to both floor standers and stands, as well as room accoustics, however it gets very individual and involved, not something I would want to get into on the forum.

CJSF

 

[Chris Munden]

Quite so, thanks any way.

Chris