Bi Wiring a Vintage Amp some advise please

[nemo78]

Hi!

I have a Conrad Johnson MV52 power amp (with another CJ tube preamp) which I am going to BIWIRE to a set of Dali Ikon Mk2 speakers. I have previously used this with single(no Bi) wire and they sounded great. Now I would like to Bi Wire (using Chord Carnival SS Biwire) .

The question I have is (keeping in mind the "nominal impedence" of my Dalis are 6 ohms), TO WHICH speaker binding posts do I connect the 2 set of speaker wires, in order to Biwire? the image below will make clear what I am trying to ask:

And what does "C" mean in the above?

Thanks

Ricky

 

[eggontoast]

The terminals on the rear are C = common (negative speaker terminal)

4 = 4 ohms

8 = 8 ohms

16 = 16ohms

These terminals are different taps on the output transformer, you connect your speaker between C (negative) and the corresponding impedance tap (positve) in your case try either the 4 or 8 and see which sounds best.

 

[nemo78]

The terminals on the rear are C = common (negative speaker terminal)

4 = 4 ohms

8 = 8 ohms

16 = 16ohms

These terminals are different taps on the output transformer, you connect your speaker between C (negative) and the corresponding impedance tap (positve) in your case try either the 4 or 8 and see which sounds best.

Thanks! But I will be connecting two sets of speaker cables on one side (bi wiring), so I should be ok if I select the 4 ohms AND the 8 ohms for each side (my speakers being 6 ohms)?

Thanks

 

[eggontoast]

If you are biwiring you have both cables together in the same terminals (4 or 8 ) then split the crossovers on the speakers and have separate connections for the bass/mid and treble unit. You don't use two different output taps.

 

[TrevC]

Don't bother biwiring. It's a pointless exercise.

 

[nemo78]

If you are biwiring you have both cables together in the same terminals (4 or 8 ) then split the crossovers on the speakers and have separate connections for the bass/mid and treble unit. You don't use two different output taps.

I see. I guess you're referring to biwiring an amp that doesnt already have two sets of inputs already built, like in my Yamaha AS-500 (I use that with Kef my Kef Q300, I use 2 sets of connections per speaker and remove the links on the speaker. Is that Biwiring, or something else?)

 

[andyjm]

To reinforce trevc's point above, there is absolutely no point biwiring a loudspeaker if you intend to remove the jumper at the loudspeaker end. If anything, you will put a little hump in the frequency response of the speaker at the crossover point. If however you leave the jumper in place, then you have at least run an 'effectively' thicker cable, and that won't do any harm.

Spend the money on more music.

 

[eggontoast]

If you are biwiring you have both cables together in the same terminals (4 or 8 ) then split the crossovers on the speakers and have separate connections for the bass/mid and treble unit. You don't use two different output taps.

I see. I guess you're referring to biwiring an amp that doesnt already have two sets of inputs already built, like in my Yamaha AS-500 (I use that with Kef my Kef Q300, I use 2 sets of connections per speaker and remove the links on the speaker. Is that Biwiring, or something else?)

Yes that is bi wiring, if you have two sets of binding posts it's easier to do it that way. It effectively does exactly the same as putting both cables in the same hole though, it just means they are shorted together inside the amp with the speaker selector instead. Your valve amp doesn't have two sets of outputs, it just has one. There are three taps to match the impedance of the output TX with the load, you can't use two or all three at once. You need to put both cables in the same output of the amplifier, either 4 or 8 in this case.

But take note of what others have said, there's not really much point!

 

[nemo78]

To reinforce trevc's point above, there is absolutely no point biwiring a loudspeaker if you intend to remove the jumper at the loudspeaker end. If anything, you will put a little hump in the frequency response of the speaker at the crossover point. If however you leave the jumper in place, then you have at least run an 'effectively' thicker cable, and that won't do any harm.

Spend the money on more music.

Actually, the only speaker I have biwired is the KEFQ300. They have their own little knob, you have to switch to a different position when biwired. And they make a helluva difference (biwired vs single wired that is). Respectfully, You should perhaps have a listen first.

 

[nemo78]

If you are biwiring you have both cables together in the same terminals (4 or 8 ) then split the crossovers on the speakers and have separate connections for the bass/mid and treble unit. You don't use two different output taps.

I see. I guess you're referring to biwiring an amp that doesnt already have two sets of inputs already built, like in my Yamaha AS-500 (I use that with Kef my Kef Q300, I use 2 sets of connections per speaker and remove the links on the speaker. Is that Biwiring, or something else?)

Yes that is bi wiring, if you have two sets of binding posts it's easier to do it that way. It effectively does exactly the same as putting both cables in the same hole though, it just means they are shorted together inside the amp with the speaker selector instead. Your valve amp doesn't have two sets of outputs, it just has one. There are three taps to match the impedance of the output TX with the load, you can't use two or all three at once. You need to put both cables in the same output of the amplifier, either 4 or 8 in this case.

But take note of what others have said, there's not really much point!

Thanks very much for the explanation.

I actually wrote to Conrad sometime ago, and they suggested Biwiring will get me more oomph, so I thought I'd give it a shot.

 

[eggontoast]

Well everyone has an opinion, it's best to form your own one really so give it a try and report back your findings!

 

[andyjm]

If you are biwiring you have both cables together in the same terminals (4 or 8 ) then split the crossovers on the speakers and have separate connections for the bass/mid and treble unit. You don't use two different output taps.

I see. I guess you're referring to biwiring an amp that doesnt already have two sets of inputs already built, like in my Yamaha AS-500 (I use that with Kef my Kef Q300, I use 2 sets of connections per speaker and remove the links on the speaker. Is that Biwiring, or something else?)

Yes that is bi wiring, if you have two sets of binding posts it's easier to do it that way. It effectively does exactly the same as putting both cables in the same hole though, it just means they are shorted together inside the amp with the speaker selector instead. Your valve amp doesn't have two sets of outputs, it just has one. There are three taps to match the impedance of the output TX with the load, you can't use two or all three at once. You need to put both cables in the same output of the amplifier, either 4 or 8 in this case.

But take note of what others have said, there's not really much point!

Thanks very much for the explanation.

I actually wrote to Conrad sometime ago, and they suggested Biwiring will get me more oomph, so I thought I'd give it a shot.

So the amplifier manufacturer recommended biwiring?