Best Sounding Class D?

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podknocker

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That's true. You can use a class A amp, as a heater, when not sending current to your speakers! I had an Arcam amp that was class A, up to 20 watts and then class G for the remaining 100 watts per channel. I couldn't hear the transition, to be honest and it did sound great, but quite a large unit, with no digital inputs etc. I'm sure you'll find something suitable, with your current budget.
 
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podknocker

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I agree. Also, switching off anything class A, to save money, will shorten its lifespan. Frequently pulling current, to warm up the tubes, will upset them. I have a class AB Audiolab Omnia and I leave it on 24/7 now, as I know that switching it off and on every day, will have a negative impact on the circuits and relays etc. It's the same with these 'green' cars, where the engine cuts out, when at traffic lights etc. I'm not convinced it saves money and the strain on the ignition coil and starter motor, every few minutes, must be dreadful.
 
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I agree. Also, switching off anything class A, to save money, will shorten its lifespan. Frequently pulling current, to warm up the tubes, will upset them. I have a class AB Audiolab Omnia and I leave it on 24/7 now, as I know that switching it off and on every day, will have a negative impact on the circuits and relays etc. It's the same with these 'green' cars, where the engine cuts out, when at traffic lights etc. I'm not convinced it saves money and the strain on the ignition coil and starter motor, every few minutes, must be dreadful.
Interesting....... You have evidence to support this?
I have had valve amps for years and cannot say that switching them off ever shortened their life span.
Its a bit like saying the best way to prolong the life of a lightbulb is never to turn it on.
 

CleanCopperz

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That's true. You can use a class A amp, as a heater, when not sending current to your speakers! I had an Arcam amp that was class A, up to 20 watts and then class G for the remaining 100 watts per channel. I couldn't hear the transition, to be honest and it did sound great, but quite a large unit, with no digital inputs etc. I'm sure you'll find something suitable, with your current budget.

That was exactly what I was thinking maximum 20watt, for a "warmer" before the Class D.

So i changed the plan a bit. I am not only looking for a Class D. I will change everyting from source to speakers.

What I need

DAC, Blanced:
TOSLINK Optical input
USB connection from PC

Preamp, Balanced:
Tube and balanced out XLR or 4.4mm

Power or Integrated amp, Balanced:
Should be and only be Class D. Minimum 150watt

I have 8.000 - 10.000 dollars.

I have moved away from the thought of keeping everything in one box(AIO).
 
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Guys I think I found something that implements alot of thinks I want. I just don´t have any experience with this brand. Looks scandinavia, but is build id china?

I have its predecessor, the I32, and they’re a delight to own and use. They look nice too! As you know, I have ATCs too. No idea what Primare cost where you live, however.

There’s very good support from the HQ in Sweden if you need it. There are several YouTube videos by Terry Medalen, their main PR guy, who loves music and is very knowledgeable about hifi too. They design in Sweden and it’s assembled in China - then shipped back to Sweden where it is all quality checked before onward shipping to distributors.
 
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CleanCopperz

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I have its predecessor, the I32, and they’re a delight to own and use. They look nice too! As you know, I have ATCs too. No idea what Primare cost where you live, however.

There’s very good support from the HQ in Sweden if you need it. There are several YouTube videos by Terry Medalen, their main PR guy, who loves music and is very knowledgeable about hifi too. They design in Sweden and it’s assembled in China - then shipped back to Sweden where it is all quality checked before onward shipping to distributors.

very helpful info right here. Thanks. Im just tired of looking for different devices and that was the reason I found it.

I was thinking of splitting the option to there A35.2 amp and preamp i35 prisma.

the amp has a little more “sauce” than the built in one I guess😂….its very expensive
 
If I knew I could buy 10year warrenty I would buy it instantly.
You get a 6 year warranty with an ATC amplifier, as long as you register it, although it’s not class D. In the UK it is much the same cost. Passive, £3990; Active, £7400. SIA2-150 integrated amplifier, £3,625.

But then you may as well buy the active versions with the amp built in, though obviously it only has one input. A Primare
preamp might go well! Or one of ATCs?

 
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CleanCopperz

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You get a 6 year warranty with an ATC amplifier, as long as you register it, although it’s not class D. But then you may as well buy the active versions with the amp built in, though obviously it only has one input.

In the UK it is much the same cost. Passive, £3990; Active, £7400. SIA2-150 amplifier, £3,625.

I ordered the passive.(2 months waiting) If there was a remote for the ATC SCM40A maybe, I would have considered it. But I will not, want to turn speakers on/off., manually. I want a remote on my next setup.

I will definitly register my speaker for that warrenty. But I also want warrenty for the Primare, if I bought it :)
 
I ordered the passive.(2 months waiting) If there was a remote for the ATC SCM40A maybe, I would have considered it. But I will not, want to turn speakers on/off., manually. I want a remote on my next setup.

I will definitly register my speaker for that warrenty. But I also want warrenty for the Primare, if I bought it :)
I think it’s a case of you can’t get everything you want in life! My amp is coming up for five years and hasn’t missed a beat. I’d not fret too much about a long warranty. The only amplifier I can think of that has a long warranty is Bryston, 20 years iirc, imported here by the PMC speaker people. There are doubtless others.
 
I need some hints of how to to see what class the amplifiers are from the different brands. Power consumption?

right now I am looking to see if Bryston Class D
Not as far as I know. They’re pretty traditional.

Hifi News magazine measures power consumption of all the amplifiers it tests. For example…https://www.hifinews.com/content/rotel-ra-1592mkii-integrated-amplifier-lab-report

Three rows up from the bottom of the specification summary. Power consumption at rated output, also on standby and idle - ie. switched on but not working
 
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Pedro2

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I once paired a Nord Hypex power amp with SCM11s. The sound was very detailed, very transparent, and the Nord could certainly drive the ATCs to incredible volume levels (not my scene). I believe that since then, Colin at Nord has refined the amps even more although I’ve always found navigating his website a nightmare.
 
I once paired a Nord Hypex power amp with SCM11s. The sound was very detailed, very transparent, and the Nord could certainly drive the ATCs to incredible volume levels (not my scene). I believe that since then, Colin at Nord has refined the amps even more although I’ve always found navigating his website a nightmare.
Yes, it’s still a bit jumpy and confusing, isn’t it? In some ways at least we know the money isn’t going on web designers, but it’s a bit of a nightmare to negotiate!
 

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