A couple of months ago...

a91gti

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a91gti

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@JD. Shame he didn't get the ton but that was very entertaining stuff.
@Cno. I've used BluTak in the past but of course that would be coupling not de-coupling and I require the latter.
@PP.Ta.
 

CnoEvil

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a91gti said:
@JD. Shame he didn't get the ton but that was very entertaining stuff. @Cno. I've used BluTak in the past but of course that would be coupling not de-coupling and I require the latter. @PP.Ta.

I would say that Blu-tac isolates from the stand, rather than couples to it....I've tried both, and in my case, the BT worked just as well as the spikes; but that may not be the same with you.
 

a91gti

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Its all down to the individuals tastes and ears you are quite right.

I feel that the reduced contact area provided by the spikes gives better isolation. BluTak is quite rigid under compression and its stickiness has an anchoring effect.

These are of course my opinions and the fact that they are correct should not deter discussion ;-)
 

fr0g

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The idea of putting spikes anywhere near a nice speaker finish pains me. And is pointless (no (anti-) pun intended).
 

simonlewis

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Never in my life have i seen speakers sitting on spikes, are you sure you have not got your speaker stands the right way round, me thinks they are upside down. :)
 

CnoEvil

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There are two schools of thought. One says that you should couple the speaker to the stand to help drain away un-wanted energy. The other says that the speaker should be de-coupled from the stand.

I suspect that each approach works in different situations ie. You don't want to transmit vibrations into a suspended floor.

Isolation requires either something like the Auralex Gramma, or Sorbathane / blu-tak or Herbie's Fat dots.

It is generally accepted that spikes actually couple the speaker to the stand (which isn't necessarily a bad thing). Back in 09, when Keith Howard used an accelerometer to measure vibration, he discovered that vibration in the speaker stand was 100 times greater using cones vs rubbery feet.

In case you are interested here is an article;
http://www.audioholics.com/education/loudspeaker-basics/speaker-spikes-and-cones-2013-what2019s-the-point
 

a91gti

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BluTak and Sorbothane are different things with different properties that offer different benefits

Place a cdp or other component on BluTak and it doesn't move whereas on Sorbothane there is movement.

Quite frankly though I couldn't give a rats arse.

The speakers are firmly sited and have as little contact with the stands and through them the floor as is possible without hanging them from the ceiling (something I'd love to do).

This is a thread for me to display pictures of my system in and not one for people to attempt to 'educate' me.
 

CnoEvil

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It wasn't my intention to annoy, but help....it's just that I have a set of nicely vaneered speakers that now have a "spike mark rash" underneath, and I wanted to spare yours the same fate.
 

a91gti

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My speakers arrived having been painted white, I removed both the white paint and the underlying factory black using various grades of glasspaper and a lot of sweat. They currently have no lacquer or otherwise so nothing to do great damage to.

All that aside I don't look at the bottom of them a great deal. I tend rather to listen to what comes out of the front of them.

That said I in turn apologise if I offended with my response to what I felt were unnecessarily sustained attempts to instruct. Those coming from not just yourself actually, you at least offered some justification.

I love the fact that we all have different opinions on sound and its variables but I haven't stumbled onto this setup by accident.
 

CnoEvil

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a91gti said:
That said I in turn apologise if I offended with my response to what I felt were unnecessarily sustained attempts to instruct. Those coming from not just yourself actually, you at least offered some justification.

There was no offense taken.....it's just that in this hobby, some people like to go into the "ins and outs", while others don't (and it's not always easy to get the balance right).

I suffer from suspended wooden floors and have done more experimentation than is healthy!
 

fr0g

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a91gti said:
This is a thread for me to display pictures of my system in and not one for people to attempt to 'educate' me.

If you post pictures on an open forum then it's a thread for people to do and say what they like within house rules.

Sometimes people see an obvious potential problem and comment such as speakers too close to a wall, too many hard surfaces, lovely wooden finish being pointlessly ruined by spikes etc etc, and comment.

You'll find no sonic benefit but will certainly reduce the sell-on value.
 

a91gti

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The new kit is Linn Kan 1 and an el34 powered valve amp.

The amp is of unknown origin and vintage but is putting out a very healthy 20+ watts a side. It sounds great and gets better with every tweak. Next on the list is a full compliment of Svetlana "winged C" el34.

All cables are diy.
 

chebby

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a91gti said:
The new kit is Linn Kan 1 and an el34 powered valve amp. The amp is of unknown origin and vintage but is putting out a very healthy 20+ watts a side. It sounds great and gets better with every tweak. Next on the list is a full compliment of Svetlana "winged C" el34. All cables are diy.

Thanks.

I thought they might be Kans (I haven't seen a pair for 25 years though).

If memory serves, they were designed to perform close to walls. I could be wrong though.
 

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