A couple of months ago...
- Thread starter a91gti
- Start date
John Duncan
Well-known member
That worked out nicely John. I was having a nightnare uploading pics via the poxy system used here.
John Duncan
Well-known member
It all looks wonderfully musical......have you tried Blu-tac under the speakers (less damaging than those spikes).
plastic penguin
Well-known member
@JD. Shame he didn't get the ton but that was very entertaining stuff.
@Cno. I've used BluTak in the past but of course that would be coupling not de-coupling and I require the latter.
@PP.Ta.
@Cno. I've used BluTak in the past but of course that would be coupling not de-coupling and I require the latter.
@PP.Ta.
a91gti said:
I would say that Blu-tac isolates from the stand, rather than couples to it....I've tried both, and in my case, the BT worked just as well as the spikes; but that may not be the same with you.
Its all down to the individuals tastes and ears you are quite right.
I feel that the reduced contact area provided by the spikes gives better isolation. BluTak is quite rigid under compression and its stickiness has an anchoring effect.
These are of course my opinions and the fact that they are correct should not deter discussion ;-)
I feel that the reduced contact area provided by the spikes gives better isolation. BluTak is quite rigid under compression and its stickiness has an anchoring effect.
These are of course my opinions and the fact that they are correct should not deter discussion ;-)
The idea of putting spikes anywhere near a nice speaker finish pains me. And is pointless (no (anti-) pun intended).
Never in my life have i seen speakers sitting on spikes, are you sure you have not got your speaker stands the right way round, me thinks they are upside down. 
I do tend to see things differently to most and as it works...
The stands are the right way up but back to front btw.
The stands are the right way up but back to front btw.
There are two schools of thought. One says that you should couple the speaker to the stand to help drain away un-wanted energy. The other says that the speaker should be de-coupled from the stand.
I suspect that each approach works in different situations ie. You don't want to transmit vibrations into a suspended floor.
Isolation requires either something like the Auralex Gramma, or Sorbathane / blu-tak or Herbie's Fat dots.
It is generally accepted that spikes actually couple the speaker to the stand (which isn't necessarily a bad thing). Back in 09, when Keith Howard used an accelerometer to measure vibration, he discovered that vibration in the speaker stand was 100 times greater using cones vs rubbery feet.
In case you are interested here is an article;
http://www.audioholics.com/education/loudspeaker-basics/speaker-spikes-and-cones-2013-what2019s-the-point
I suspect that each approach works in different situations ie. You don't want to transmit vibrations into a suspended floor.
Isolation requires either something like the Auralex Gramma, or Sorbathane / blu-tak or Herbie's Fat dots.
It is generally accepted that spikes actually couple the speaker to the stand (which isn't necessarily a bad thing). Back in 09, when Keith Howard used an accelerometer to measure vibration, he discovered that vibration in the speaker stand was 100 times greater using cones vs rubbery feet.
In case you are interested here is an article;
http://www.audioholics.com/education/loudspeaker-basics/speaker-spikes-and-cones-2013-what2019s-the-point
John Duncan
Well-known member
BluTak and Sorbothane are different things with different properties that offer different benefits
Place a cdp or other component on BluTak and it doesn't move whereas on Sorbothane there is movement.
Quite frankly though I couldn't give a rats arse.
The speakers are firmly sited and have as little contact with the stands and through them the floor as is possible without hanging them from the ceiling (something I'd love to do).
This is a thread for me to display pictures of my system in and not one for people to attempt to 'educate' me.
Place a cdp or other component on BluTak and it doesn't move whereas on Sorbothane there is movement.
Quite frankly though I couldn't give a rats arse.
The speakers are firmly sited and have as little contact with the stands and through them the floor as is possible without hanging them from the ceiling (something I'd love to do).
This is a thread for me to display pictures of my system in and not one for people to attempt to 'educate' me.
John Duncan said:
The article wasn't in 09, but July/August 02......Oh well, addled brain and all that!
John Duncan
Well-known member
It wasn't my intention to annoy, but help....it's just that I have a set of nicely vaneered speakers that now have a "spike mark rash" underneath, and I wanted to spare yours the same fate.
My speakers arrived having been painted white, I removed both the white paint and the underlying factory black using various grades of glasspaper and a lot of sweat. They currently have no lacquer or otherwise so nothing to do great damage to.
All that aside I don't look at the bottom of them a great deal. I tend rather to listen to what comes out of the front of them.
That said I in turn apologise if I offended with my response to what I felt were unnecessarily sustained attempts to instruct. Those coming from not just yourself actually, you at least offered some justification.
I love the fact that we all have different opinions on sound and its variables but I haven't stumbled onto this setup by accident.
All that aside I don't look at the bottom of them a great deal. I tend rather to listen to what comes out of the front of them.
That said I in turn apologise if I offended with my response to what I felt were unnecessarily sustained attempts to instruct. Those coming from not just yourself actually, you at least offered some justification.
I love the fact that we all have different opinions on sound and its variables but I haven't stumbled onto this setup by accident.
chebby
Well-known member
a91gti said:
There was no offense taken.....it's just that in this hobby, some people like to go into the "ins and outs", while others don't (and it's not always easy to get the balance right).
I suffer from suspended wooden floors and have done more experimentation than is healthy!
a91gti said:
If you post pictures on an open forum then it's a thread for people to do and say what they like within house rules.
Sometimes people see an obvious potential problem and comment such as speakers too close to a wall, too many hard surfaces, lovely wooden finish being pointlessly ruined by spikes etc etc, and comment.
You'll find no sonic benefit but will certainly reduce the sell-on value.
The new kit is Linn Kan 1 and an el34 powered valve amp.
The amp is of unknown origin and vintage but is putting out a very healthy 20+ watts a side. It sounds great and gets better with every tweak. Next on the list is a full compliment of Svetlana "winged C" el34.
All cables are diy.
The amp is of unknown origin and vintage but is putting out a very healthy 20+ watts a side. It sounds great and gets better with every tweak. Next on the list is a full compliment of Svetlana "winged C" el34.
All cables are diy.
chebby
Well-known member
a91gti said:
Thanks.
I thought they might be Kans (I haven't seen a pair for 25 years though).
If memory serves, they were designed to perform close to walls. I could be wrong though.
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