M&K Speakers.

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I've heard that M&K make very good speakers for watching movies but what do any of you guys think of them? Also, I would like some information on system matching and any other useful information. Lastly, why has WHF only reviewed one of the new M&K subs and not any of the complete system packages since 2005?
 
Pick any hi-fi speaker package and pit it against an equivalently priced M&K package and the differences are huge, so big you can compare them to more expensive packages.

As for matching, people use M&K with many different amplifiers. I wouldn't say that there are any amps that don't go with them, but I find the processing of Yamaha's AV amps mixed with M&K speakers to be about as good as the movie experience gets.
 
Thank you everyone for all your help. The other M&K thread is very useful.
 
How would you describe their sound? What are their strengths and weaknesses? Does anyone know any info on M&K system matching?
 
Nintendo_Fan:How would you describe their sound? What are their strengths and weaknesses? Does anyone know any info on M&K system matching?Strengths? Detail in spades, 'make you jump' dynamics, they will go stupidly loud if and when needed with the right amplification, and produce a huge sound given their cabinet sizes. Weaknesses? Maybe a little thin sounding to some, can sound a little harsh on the wrong amplifier, music not their forte as they're designed for movies. On the plus side, many people who do buy them are quite happy with their music performance.

Many films are mixed/mastered on M&K sub/sat based speaker setups, and even the ones that aren't, are mixed on similar sounding speakers. They're not mastered on hi-fi speakers, which have too warm a midrange and bass to be able to give the sort of detail that the M&K's can.

The K series can be driven by any of the £400-500 decent amps (1909/606/863), and the M series upwards are better of matched with a decent £1k amp or upwards (3808/876/1800).
 
I wouldn't worry too much about THX. Most of the benefits of THX aren't really appreciable unless you're listening at or near reference levels, which most people don't.

The 750's can be driven by anything from an Onkyo 876 upwards, but will sound better with better amplification. Ideally something like an RXV3800/Denon 3808/Onkyo 906 as a starting point, and as far as you'd like to take things past that. The 150's should really be partnered with top notch AV amps like Denon's A1, Yamaha's Z11 and Marantz's 8003 pre/power, but hopefully can be used with something like Arcam's AVR600 and Yamaha's Z7. If these two amps are up to the job, then the cost of a top notch AV system has just been lowered......
 
Wow. Thanks for ALL the advice, now things seem a lot clearer. One last question, does anyone know of any amps that output power at 4 Ohms?
 
Amps don't output power at a level of Ohms - Ohms is the SI unit for electrical resistance. So speakers which are rated at 4 Ohms will require more power to be driven to the same volume as speakers rated at 8 Ohms. So basically, you need an amp which has a reasonably high power output (which is a figure measured in Watts) for these kind of speakers.
 
Does the mean 4 Ohm speakers would need twice as much power as 8 Ohm speakers with the same power requirements? If that's so, what is the point of 4 Ohm speakers then?
 
I don't think it works like that, though I have to admit getting a bit out of my depth on the technical stuff here - I know Ohms law but I'm not sure how this comes into play with a speaker's impedance rating. Do you have the sensitivity figures? I think they're more value for calculating how hard a speaker is to drive than the impedance rating.
 
I have the Xenon lcr36 all round with the mx7000 sub running with my Onkyo 875.

I have set the impedance to 4ohm on the reciver and it never lacks power to neighbour baiting levels.
 
Apparently, switching receivers to 4 Ohms mode clips the speakers. Is this true?
 

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