Why good luck jase.......?? have you tried?? Just giving the op an alternative. Some people like the diy challenge. 
True Blue:Why good luck jase.......?? have you tried?? Just giving the op an alternative. Some people like the diy challenge. Good luck as in putting it together? My DIY is around the home & not building my own cables etc ha id prob end up blowing my precious equipment up...
Good luck as in putting it together? My DIY is around the home & not building my own cables etc ha id prob end up blowing my precious equipment up...Fair enough. Suppose you do have to be handy with a soldering iron for the C7 (figure of 8) end.
tried the cable straight into the blu ray player and am alarmed to see that whilst playing DVD's its proper jittery!! Ive now swapped teh cable back to the free cable that came with the blu ray player and its doing the same thing!! Currently madly swapping cables round to see what the hell is going on..............
Seems only to be doing it on DVD play back, regardless of what power cable i use. I was watching the same DVD taht has not been out of the machine on sunday and it was fine!! grrrrr.
and now when i press stop on the machine instead of giving m ethe blu ray panasonic display it gives me a whole load of blue noise and rubbish up on the screen!
Seems only to be doing it on DVD play back, regardless of what power cable i use. I was watching the same DVD taht has not been out of the machine on sunday and it was fine!! grrrrr.
and now when i press stop on the machine instead of giving m ethe blu ray panasonic display it gives me a whole load of blue noise and rubbish up on the screen!
True Blue:Alternatively, go to RS get some SY or CY shielded control cable. Then Maplins and get a figure of 8 connector and an MK toughplug and build your own for less than £25.
... says the man with QED Silver Anniversary, Chord Crimson Sub Lead, QED HDMI P, a Tacima, Chord Cham Silver+, Chord PowerChord, and a dedicated radial circuit? Mmmm.
As for AC... On many domestic electrical installations, you'll actually find the Neutral connected to the Earth at the supply head, and in any case at the step-down transformer (sub-station). Live is not at the same potential as the Neutral wire.
jase fox:Well yes maybe higher end kit is easier to detect these differences. Im using a RA Reference powerkord on my amp and boy what a difference its made, totally night & day! Mind you at £254 it oughta be, its DCT treated aswell.
I also own the Denon 2500BT & im using a RA classic powerkord with that & it made a huge difference, they really are great powerkords, there pricey but then again quality normally is.
I'm using RA Reference on the 2500 and receiver, and Classic on the subwoofer. Worth every penny pound hundred pounds! Can you say what difference the DCT treatment made Jase?
... says the man with QED Silver Anniversary, Chord Crimson Sub Lead, QED HDMI P, a Tacima, Chord Cham Silver+, Chord PowerChord, and a dedicated radial circuit? Mmmm.
As for AC... On many domestic electrical installations, you'll actually find the Neutral connected to the Earth at the supply head, and in any case at the step-down transformer (sub-station). Live is not at the same potential as the Neutral wire.
jase fox:Well yes maybe higher end kit is easier to detect these differences. Im using a RA Reference powerkord on my amp and boy what a difference its made, totally night & day! Mind you at £254 it oughta be, its DCT treated aswell.
I also own the Denon 2500BT & im using a RA classic powerkord with that & it made a huge difference, they really are great powerkords, there pricey but then again quality normally is.
I'm using RA Reference on the 2500 and receiver, and Classic on the subwoofer. Worth every penny pound hundred pounds! Can you say what difference the DCT treatment made Jase?
Gander: and now when i press stop on the machine instead of giving m ethe blu ray panasonic display it gives me a whole load of blue noise and rubbish up on the screen!
Sounds like you've disturbed/knocked loose one of your other cables, perhaps an HDMI lead, when you pulled the equipment out? Or did you just yank out the old mains cable(s) without switching the kit off first? You might need to reset your player/receiver/screen to get things back to normal. It almost certainly has nothing to do with simply changing one type of mains lead for another.
Sounds like you've disturbed/knocked loose one of your other cables, perhaps an HDMI lead, when you pulled the equipment out? Or did you just yank out the old mains cable(s) without switching the kit off first? You might need to reset your player/receiver/screen to get things back to normal. It almost certainly has nothing to do with simply changing one type of mains lead for another.
Yeah done all that wireman. Tuned off, on, wiggled cables and ensure all is well on connections front. I did plug the cable in live to the back of the blu ray player, stupidly! I think that may have jolted it? What do you think? I may try another HDMI but the one i have on is brand new.
The blu ray seems to be fine, although the sound doesnt seems as sparkly as i remember it, but this may have something to do with my nait xs still warming up.........
The blu ray seems to be fine, although the sound doesnt seems as sparkly as i remember it, but this may have something to do with my nait xs still warming up.........
wireman:
True Blue:Alternatively, go to RS get some SY or CY shielded control cable. Then Maplins and get a figure of 8 connector and an MK toughplug and build your own for less than £25.
... says the man with QED Silver Anniversary, Chord Crimson Sub Lead, QED HDMI P, a Tacima, Chord Cham Silver+, Chord PowerChord, and a dedicated radial circuit? Mmmm.
As for AC... On many domestic electrical installations, you'll actually find the Neutral connected to the Earth at the supply head, and in any case at the step-down transformer (sub-station). Live is not at the same potential as the Neutral wire.
jase fox:Well yes maybe higher end kit is easier to detect these differences. Im using a RA Reference powerkord on my amp and boy what a difference its made, totally night & day! Mind you at £254 it oughta be, its DCT treated aswell.
I also own the Denon 2500BT & im using a RA classic powerkord with that & it made a huge difference, they really are great powerkords, there pricey but then again quality normally is.
I'm using RA Reference on the 2500 and receiver, and Classic on the subwoofer. Worth every penny pound hundred pounds! Can you say what difference the DCT treatment made Jase?
Yes I chose to use my "free"HDMI leads that I got when buying my system because I cannot terminate HDMI, and yes I use a Chord Power Chord because it was good value for money, and again so was the Tacima. All I was saying is that these things are not rocket science. I believe fully in the benefits of mains conditioning and supply screening, but also that it is also within a DIY'ers grasps. Also a Chord Crimson sub lead is an interconnect and the QED is speaker cable.
True Blue:Alternatively, go to RS get some SY or CY shielded control cable. Then Maplins and get a figure of 8 connector and an MK toughplug and build your own for less than £25.
... says the man with QED Silver Anniversary, Chord Crimson Sub Lead, QED HDMI P, a Tacima, Chord Cham Silver+, Chord PowerChord, and a dedicated radial circuit? Mmmm.
As for AC... On many domestic electrical installations, you'll actually find the Neutral connected to the Earth at the supply head, and in any case at the step-down transformer (sub-station). Live is not at the same potential as the Neutral wire.
jase fox:Well yes maybe higher end kit is easier to detect these differences. Im using a RA Reference powerkord on my amp and boy what a difference its made, totally night & day! Mind you at £254 it oughta be, its DCT treated aswell.
I also own the Denon 2500BT & im using a RA classic powerkord with that & it made a huge difference, they really are great powerkords, there pricey but then again quality normally is.
I'm using RA Reference on the 2500 and receiver, and Classic on the subwoofer. Worth every penny pound hundred pounds! Can you say what difference the DCT treatment made Jase?
Yes I chose to use my "free"HDMI leads that I got when buying my system because I cannot terminate HDMI, and yes I use a Chord Power Chord because it was good value for money, and again so was the Tacima. All I was saying is that these things are not rocket science. I believe fully in the benefits of mains conditioning and supply screening, but also that it is also within a DIY'ers grasps. Also a Chord Crimson sub lead is an interconnect and the QED is speaker cable.
wireman:
True Blue:Alternatively, go to RS get some SY or CY shielded control cable. Then Maplins and get a figure of 8 connector and an MK toughplug and build your own for less than £25.
... says the man with QED Silver Anniversary, Chord Crimson Sub Lead, QED HDMI P, a Tacima, Chord Cham Silver+, Chord PowerChord, and a dedicated radial circuit? Mmmm.
As for AC... On many domestic electrical installations, you'll actually find the Neutral connected to the Earth at the supply head, and in any case at the step-down transformer (sub-station). Live is not at the same potential as the Neutral wire.
jase fox:Well yes maybe higher end kit is easier to detect these differences. Im using a RA Reference powerkord on my amp and boy what a difference its made, totally night & day! Mind you at £254 it oughta be, its DCT treated aswell.
I also own the Denon 2500BT & im using a RA classic powerkord with that & it made a huge difference, they really are great powerkords, there pricey but then again quality normally is.
I'm using RA Reference on the 2500 and receiver, and Classic on the subwoofer. Worth every penny pound hundred pounds! Can you say what difference the DCT treatment made Jase?
No im afraid i cant wireman as ive never tried one untreated to compare, im curious myself as to how an untreated one sounds, all i can say is that its a fantastic kord as you know yourself. Mind you i couldnt tell any differences in performance between the classic & reference powerkord in my 2500BT But between the two on my amp is night & day, the reference is fantastic for amps. Im really curious as to how the signature kord from RA performs? But the near £400 price tag is abit out my depth for a powerkord ha
True Blue:Alternatively, go to RS get some SY or CY shielded control cable. Then Maplins and get a figure of 8 connector and an MK toughplug and build your own for less than £25.
... says the man with QED Silver Anniversary, Chord Crimson Sub Lead, QED HDMI P, a Tacima, Chord Cham Silver+, Chord PowerChord, and a dedicated radial circuit? Mmmm.
As for AC... On many domestic electrical installations, you'll actually find the Neutral connected to the Earth at the supply head, and in any case at the step-down transformer (sub-station). Live is not at the same potential as the Neutral wire.
jase fox:Well yes maybe higher end kit is easier to detect these differences. Im using a RA Reference powerkord on my amp and boy what a difference its made, totally night & day! Mind you at £254 it oughta be, its DCT treated aswell.
I also own the Denon 2500BT & im using a RA classic powerkord with that & it made a huge difference, they really are great powerkords, there pricey but then again quality normally is.
I'm using RA Reference on the 2500 and receiver, and Classic on the subwoofer. Worth every penny pound hundred pounds! Can you say what difference the DCT treatment made Jase?
No im afraid i cant wireman as ive never tried one untreated to compare, im curious myself as to how an untreated one sounds, all i can say is that its a fantastic kord as you know yourself. Mind you i couldnt tell any differences in performance between the classic & reference powerkord in my 2500BT But between the two on my amp is night & day, the reference is fantastic for amps. Im really curious as to how the signature kord from RA performs? But the near £400 price tag is abit out my depth for a powerkord ha
Gander:Yeah done all that wireman. Tuned off, on, wiggled cables and ensure all is well on connections front. I did plug the cable in live to the back of the blu ray player, stupidly! I think that may have jolted it? What do you think? I may try another HDMI but the one i have on is brand new. The blu ray seems to be fine, although the sound doesnt seems as sparkly as i remember it, but this may have something to do with my nait xs still warming up.........
It probably all needs warming up again if it's been switched off, and any cable from Russ Andrews sounds a bit flat until it's had a chance to run in... the sparkle will return. So is it all working again now, or is there still a problem (apart from the lack of sparkle)?
True Blue:All I was saying is that these things are not rocket science. I believe fully in the benefits of mains conditioning and supply screening, but also that it is also within a DIY'ers grasps.
Yes, but you just can't home-fabricate a Russ Andrews cable - the woven structure of the individual cores just isn't possible to do at home on your kitchen table.
jase fox:No im afraid i cant wireman as ive never tried one untreated to compare, im curious myself as to how an untreated one sounds, all i can say is that its a fantastic kord as you know yourself. Mind you i couldnt tell any differences in performance between the classic & reference powerkord in my 2500BT But between the two on my amp is night & day, the reference is fantastic for amps. Im really curious as to how the signature kord from RA performs? But the near £400 price tag is abit out my depth for a powerkord ha
I have a Signature which I bought for my Levinson CD player, but it just didn't do it any favours. There's no difference between the Signature and a Reference when tried on my modest Denon 2310 receiver, but it may be different with your Pioneer. I had the silver AG wattgates put on my Reference Powerkords, but I have no idea what actual improvement that makes over the standard wattgate. It'd be nice to compare, as would a standard Powerkord against a DCT treated one.
It probably all needs warming up again if it's been switched off, and any cable from Russ Andrews sounds a bit flat until it's had a chance to run in... the sparkle will return. So is it all working again now, or is there still a problem (apart from the lack of sparkle)?
True Blue:All I was saying is that these things are not rocket science. I believe fully in the benefits of mains conditioning and supply screening, but also that it is also within a DIY'ers grasps.
Yes, but you just can't home-fabricate a Russ Andrews cable - the woven structure of the individual cores just isn't possible to do at home on your kitchen table.
jase fox:No im afraid i cant wireman as ive never tried one untreated to compare, im curious myself as to how an untreated one sounds, all i can say is that its a fantastic kord as you know yourself. Mind you i couldnt tell any differences in performance between the classic & reference powerkord in my 2500BT But between the two on my amp is night & day, the reference is fantastic for amps. Im really curious as to how the signature kord from RA performs? But the near £400 price tag is abit out my depth for a powerkord ha
I have a Signature which I bought for my Levinson CD player, but it just didn't do it any favours. There's no difference between the Signature and a Reference when tried on my modest Denon 2310 receiver, but it may be different with your Pioneer. I had the silver AG wattgates put on my Reference Powerkords, but I have no idea what actual improvement that makes over the standard wattgate. It'd be nice to compare, as would a standard Powerkord against a DCT treated one.
Thats a little insulting.......do you have specific product knowledge then of the RA gear??
I would never construct a cable on my kitchen table.....wife would kill me
I would never construct a cable on my kitchen table.....wife would kill me
True Blue:Thats a little insulting.......do you have specific product knowledge then of the RA gear??
I would never construct a cable on my kitchen table.....wife would kill me
Sorry, didn't mean to offend. Most of Russ Andrews mains products are based on standard electrical theory. The Silencer and Purifiers are based on Power Factor correction. The Powerkord cables are woven to eliminate RFI - again, standard electrical theory. I'm an electrician, so I find Russ' applications interesting. I own (have taken apart) Classic, Reference and Signature Powerkords, Silencers, Mini and Super Purifiers, Superclamps, Megaclamp Ultra, Powerlink and Power Blocks... There's nothing special about any of them - just good sound application of theory well documented in any number of electricians references. I have even run a dedicated radial hi-fi circuit for a customer in Russ Andrews 60A Ring Main, something I get paid to do quite often. Trust me, this cable is a nightmare to terminate (as are Powerkords) even if you are a dab-hand with a soldering iron because they're all based on multi-stranded cable which is woven together.
There's nothing you can buy from RS or Maplin that would give you the same electrical characteristics as a woven cable, so it stands to reason - if you believe in the benefits of a good mains cables - nothing is going to sound the same either. For the average DIYer, I'd suggest trying to make a woven cable at home that'd emulate the characteristics of a Russ Andrews Powerkord would be nigh-on impossible.
Don't get me wrong - I'm not exclusively Russ Andrews biased - I have several other brands of cables and conditioners which I have similarly pulled apart, and most IMHO have some merit, but many to me don't seem to have much electrical logic behind their construction in the way that RA's mains products do.
I would never construct a cable on my kitchen table.....wife would kill me
Sorry, didn't mean to offend. Most of Russ Andrews mains products are based on standard electrical theory. The Silencer and Purifiers are based on Power Factor correction. The Powerkord cables are woven to eliminate RFI - again, standard electrical theory. I'm an electrician, so I find Russ' applications interesting. I own (have taken apart) Classic, Reference and Signature Powerkords, Silencers, Mini and Super Purifiers, Superclamps, Megaclamp Ultra, Powerlink and Power Blocks... There's nothing special about any of them - just good sound application of theory well documented in any number of electricians references. I have even run a dedicated radial hi-fi circuit for a customer in Russ Andrews 60A Ring Main, something I get paid to do quite often. Trust me, this cable is a nightmare to terminate (as are Powerkords) even if you are a dab-hand with a soldering iron because they're all based on multi-stranded cable which is woven together.
There's nothing you can buy from RS or Maplin that would give you the same electrical characteristics as a woven cable, so it stands to reason - if you believe in the benefits of a good mains cables - nothing is going to sound the same either. For the average DIYer, I'd suggest trying to make a woven cable at home that'd emulate the characteristics of a Russ Andrews Powerkord would be nigh-on impossible.
Don't get me wrong - I'm not exclusively Russ Andrews biased - I have several other brands of cables and conditioners which I have similarly pulled apart, and most IMHO have some merit, but many to me don't seem to have much electrical logic behind their construction in the way that RA's mains products do.
wireman, tried all the cable swapping, turning off etc etc and the blu ray player is still shot (for dvd and home page).
Gander:wireman, tried all the cable swapping, turning off etc etc and the blu ray player is still shot (for dvd and home page).
That's really unlucky Gander. I'm sure you've tried, but is there something in the manual that tells you how to do a factory reset on the player so that the factory default settings are restored? Worth a try, and maybe try posting a question over on the home cinema forum to see if others have had that problem with your player? I can't think what else you could try, though it does sound like it might need a trip to the repair shop.
That's really unlucky Gander. I'm sure you've tried, but is there something in the manual that tells you how to do a factory reset on the player so that the factory default settings are restored? Worth a try, and maybe try posting a question over on the home cinema forum to see if others have had that problem with your player? I can't think what else you could try, though it does sound like it might need a trip to the repair shop.
Wireman,
In your opinion, what is the difference between a RA silencer & mini purifier?
Im currently using a silencer with which surprisingly for what it is gave off some positive results on the sound etc although not the same jump as what the powerkords made.
I was thinking of investing in a mini purifier nxt year to demo one & to see what extra benefits it may bring, but what were your findings between the two?
Thanks...
In your opinion, what is the difference between a RA silencer & mini purifier?
Im currently using a silencer with which surprisingly for what it is gave off some positive results on the sound etc although not the same jump as what the powerkords made.
I was thinking of investing in a mini purifier nxt year to demo one & to see what extra benefits it may bring, but what were your findings between the two?
Thanks...
Cheers wireman. I cant see the top menu screen though as it just gives me a load of blue noise and rubbish on the screen, so there's no chance of resetting the factory settings on it. I shall give richer sounds a call as i think its still within the 12 months warranty......just.....i hope.....
jase fox:Wireman, In your opinion, what is the difference between a RA silencer & mini purifier? Im currently using a silencer with which surprisingly for what it is gave off some positive results on the sound etc although not the same jump as what the powerkords made. I was thinking of investing in a mini purifier nxt year to demo one & to see what extra benefits it may bring, but what were your findings between the two? Thanks...
Electrically, the Silencer, Mini-purifier, and Ultra-purifier are all the same circuit. They work by stringing capacitors across the live and neutral supply which corrects phase shifts (caused by inductive loads sharing the supply like fridge compressor motors, washing machine motors etc - or even that factory down the road from your house using big electrical machinery and hundreds of flourescent lights). The difference between the Silencer, Mini and bigger Purifiers is simply the size of the capacitors used, so that more 'correction' is applied. The trouble really is knowing if you need any correction in the first place (a discussion I've had with RA's staff previously).
If you use a Silencer and notice an improvement, it indicates that correction probably is required. The Mini-Purifier would add more correction so in your case is likely to be a further improvement. Similarly, the Super/Ultra Purifiers would add even more correction, but there's a danger here that if you had too much correction, these circuits start to have a negative effect on the mains in that they swing the phase in the opposite direction. It's really a choice of choosing a fixed dose of medicine to cure an unknown/infinitely variable ailment - possibly for some people with already good mains, taking medicine when none is required. I hope you follow what I mean there!
From what you say Jase, it sounds as if a Mini-Purifier would work well for you, but personally, I'd avoid the larger Purifiers - they're just too OTT unless your mains is really 'dirty'. In all honesty, the Isotek Isoplug is exactly the same circuit as a RA Silencer but with better spike protection and cheaper, and the great unsung hero in my book is the Isotek Neoplug... better than the Silencer, more like the Mini-purifier, but with vastly superior mains spike protection. It's a much overlooked product which electrically offers a good mix of phase correction and spike protection, and is considerably cheaper than a Mini-Purifier.
Also worth noting that if one Silencer works for you, adding a second will double the correction and add improvement. You can mix and match a Silencer with an Isoplug, Neoplug or a Mini-Purifier (they're all similar circuits inside)... but don't overdo it, otherwise you'll be swinging the phase so far in the opposite direction you'll be doing more harm than good. (EDIT: With your ears and equipment Jase, you'll know when you've applied enough/too much).
If you lived anywhere near me, you'd be welcome to borrow another Silencer, a Mini-Purifier, a Super-Purifier, an Isotek Neoplug, a RA Megaclamp ultra, even a couple of the Quantum/RA's electroclears (although they really are a nonsense) and try them all (heck, I'd even let you try the RA Signature cable since I'm not using it), but the chances are we're at the opposite ends of the country.
Hope that helps.
Electrically, the Silencer, Mini-purifier, and Ultra-purifier are all the same circuit. They work by stringing capacitors across the live and neutral supply which corrects phase shifts (caused by inductive loads sharing the supply like fridge compressor motors, washing machine motors etc - or even that factory down the road from your house using big electrical machinery and hundreds of flourescent lights). The difference between the Silencer, Mini and bigger Purifiers is simply the size of the capacitors used, so that more 'correction' is applied. The trouble really is knowing if you need any correction in the first place (a discussion I've had with RA's staff previously).
If you use a Silencer and notice an improvement, it indicates that correction probably is required. The Mini-Purifier would add more correction so in your case is likely to be a further improvement. Similarly, the Super/Ultra Purifiers would add even more correction, but there's a danger here that if you had too much correction, these circuits start to have a negative effect on the mains in that they swing the phase in the opposite direction. It's really a choice of choosing a fixed dose of medicine to cure an unknown/infinitely variable ailment - possibly for some people with already good mains, taking medicine when none is required. I hope you follow what I mean there!
From what you say Jase, it sounds as if a Mini-Purifier would work well for you, but personally, I'd avoid the larger Purifiers - they're just too OTT unless your mains is really 'dirty'. In all honesty, the Isotek Isoplug is exactly the same circuit as a RA Silencer but with better spike protection and cheaper, and the great unsung hero in my book is the Isotek Neoplug... better than the Silencer, more like the Mini-purifier, but with vastly superior mains spike protection. It's a much overlooked product which electrically offers a good mix of phase correction and spike protection, and is considerably cheaper than a Mini-Purifier.
Also worth noting that if one Silencer works for you, adding a second will double the correction and add improvement. You can mix and match a Silencer with an Isoplug, Neoplug or a Mini-Purifier (they're all similar circuits inside)... but don't overdo it, otherwise you'll be swinging the phase so far in the opposite direction you'll be doing more harm than good. (EDIT: With your ears and equipment Jase, you'll know when you've applied enough/too much).
If you lived anywhere near me, you'd be welcome to borrow another Silencer, a Mini-Purifier, a Super-Purifier, an Isotek Neoplug, a RA Megaclamp ultra, even a couple of the Quantum/RA's electroclears (although they really are a nonsense) and try them all (heck, I'd even let you try the RA Signature cable since I'm not using it), but the chances are we're at the opposite ends of the country.
Hope that helps.
Wireman,
Thankyou very much for that informative speech mate !! It was a good read, you certainly seem to know what your talking about.
I have been told before to avoid the larger ultra purifiers & to be honest i was never going to intend on buying one for those negative reviews, however, i am still wanting to at least try the mini purifier? So wireman, where would i be able to get a Isotek Neoplug? Have they a website etc? As you do seem to give it alot of praise & i have every faith in your judgement.
I so wish we were neighbours as youd be a dream mate, ha all that demoing i could do, i live in Grimsby (North East Lincolnshire) & i suppose your now going to tell me you live the other end of the country?? It,d be nice borrowing the signature powerkord but then it wouldnt as if i loved the sound it produced id want one & its very pricey..
Ive just looked up the Isotek Neoplug on ebay and like you say its a hell of alot cheaper than the mini purifier & it looks the same as it, so in your experience wireman would you say it performs just as good as the mini then?
Thankyou very much for that informative speech mate !! It was a good read, you certainly seem to know what your talking about.
I have been told before to avoid the larger ultra purifiers & to be honest i was never going to intend on buying one for those negative reviews, however, i am still wanting to at least try the mini purifier? So wireman, where would i be able to get a Isotek Neoplug? Have they a website etc? As you do seem to give it alot of praise & i have every faith in your judgement.
I so wish we were neighbours as youd be a dream mate, ha all that demoing i could do, i live in Grimsby (North East Lincolnshire) & i suppose your now going to tell me you live the other end of the country?? It,d be nice borrowing the signature powerkord but then it wouldnt as if i loved the sound it produced id want one & its very pricey..
Ive just looked up the Isotek Neoplug on ebay and like you say its a hell of alot cheaper than the mini purifier & it looks the same as it, so in your experience wireman would you say it performs just as good as the mini then?
Yes, sorry, I got a bit carried away there. I'm afraid I just go into autopilot and rattle off the monologue - it's an age thing. It's a shame we're a good couple of hundred miles apart Jase, 'cos I could see a good evening spent trying these things on your system (I'm on the Bedfordshire/Hertfordshire border).
You mention negative reviews about the larger Purifiers: Anyone who experiences (hears) a bad effect with any of these types of devices is simply applying power factor correction to a mains supply that is inherently 'right' and doesn't need correcting, or at least they're applying more correction than is needed - easily done with a Super/Ultra Purifier. On a mains supply where the voltage and current are already precisely aligned, even a modest product like the Silencer or IsoPlug can have a mildly negative (audible) effect - a big Purifier can swing things wildly off course and make a system sound truly awful - hence some negative reviews.
The official NeoPlug page is here: http://www.isoteksystems.com/neoplug.asp. Worth trying the Mini-Purifier too Jase as it's effectively just a slightly larger Silencer, and you seem to get good results with that. The NeoPlug is just 40% (£55) of the cost of a Mini-Purifier (£145), but the NeoPlug as standard offers considerably better spike protection and because of this it can sound slightly different (I'd say better) depending on the problems on your mains. So what sounds better may be different for you. Looking inside, they're both based on similar standard electrical text-book theory, component quality is good/comparable, and I'd say both probably cost more-or-less the same to make. It makes you wonder about some of Russ Andrews' margins, eh?
I'm into monologue mode again. Sorry to Gander who started this thread - we seem to have drifted way off topic. Maybe if we just keep this thread going until Gander gets back from the repair shop with his blu-ray player, he can let us know what he thinks of his new Powerkord figure-8 mains cables? Just don't get me started on mains regenerators or balanced power supplies!
You mention negative reviews about the larger Purifiers: Anyone who experiences (hears) a bad effect with any of these types of devices is simply applying power factor correction to a mains supply that is inherently 'right' and doesn't need correcting, or at least they're applying more correction than is needed - easily done with a Super/Ultra Purifier. On a mains supply where the voltage and current are already precisely aligned, even a modest product like the Silencer or IsoPlug can have a mildly negative (audible) effect - a big Purifier can swing things wildly off course and make a system sound truly awful - hence some negative reviews.
The official NeoPlug page is here: http://www.isoteksystems.com/neoplug.asp. Worth trying the Mini-Purifier too Jase as it's effectively just a slightly larger Silencer, and you seem to get good results with that. The NeoPlug is just 40% (£55) of the cost of a Mini-Purifier (£145), but the NeoPlug as standard offers considerably better spike protection and because of this it can sound slightly different (I'd say better) depending on the problems on your mains. So what sounds better may be different for you. Looking inside, they're both based on similar standard electrical text-book theory, component quality is good/comparable, and I'd say both probably cost more-or-less the same to make. It makes you wonder about some of Russ Andrews' margins, eh?
I'm into monologue mode again. Sorry to Gander who started this thread - we seem to have drifted way off topic. Maybe if we just keep this thread going until Gander gets back from the repair shop with his blu-ray player, he can let us know what he thinks of his new Powerkord figure-8 mains cables? Just don't get me started on mains regenerators or balanced power supplies!
aliEnRIK:
hey up Jase
Hows that TM3 cable come along?
Now then Rik, hows it going?
Right the TM3 !! Id say by now its fully burnt in as its been around 5 to 6 mths & the sound had become "very" noticably better as like you say silver seems to take alot longer before changes do become noticable. Also the Reference should have already peaked, now even though the TM3 produces a great sound & great value for money i do prefer the sound of the Reference, its not so much better but just different, or is it better? mmmm? Well, theres something i just prefer?
Now for the twist? My mate who had the Reference didnt share my enthusiasm with it (on his own system that is) as he says he couldnt tell the difference between that & the classic powerkord, so it just goes to show that we only hear what we want. As ive just been recently talking to wireman about the fact id like to try an untreated kord to see what differences are as id love to know what DCT treatment actually adds to the performance.
hey up Jase
Hows that TM3 cable come along?
Now then Rik, hows it going?
Right the TM3 !! Id say by now its fully burnt in as its been around 5 to 6 mths & the sound had become "very" noticably better as like you say silver seems to take alot longer before changes do become noticable. Also the Reference should have already peaked, now even though the TM3 produces a great sound & great value for money i do prefer the sound of the Reference, its not so much better but just different, or is it better? mmmm? Well, theres something i just prefer?
Now for the twist? My mate who had the Reference didnt share my enthusiasm with it (on his own system that is) as he says he couldnt tell the difference between that & the classic powerkord, so it just goes to show that we only hear what we want. As ive just been recently talking to wireman about the fact id like to try an untreated kord to see what differences are as id love to know what DCT treatment actually adds to the performance.
jase fox:aliEnRIK:
hey up Jase
Hows that TM3 cable come along?
Now then Rik, hows it going?
Right the TM3 !! Id say by now its fully burnt in as its been around 5 to 6 mths & the sound had become "very" noticably better as like you say silver seems to take alot longer before changes do become noticable. Also the Reference should have already peaked, now even though the TM3 produces a great sound & great value for money i do prefer the sound of the Reference, its not so much better but just different, or is it better? mmmm? Well, theres something i just prefer?
Now for the twist? My mate who had the Reference didnt share my enthusiasm with it (on his own system that is) as he says he couldnt tell the difference between that & the classic powerkord, so it just goes to show that we only hear what we want. As ive just been recently talking to wireman about the fact id like to try an untreated kord to see what differences are as id love to know what DCT treatment actually adds to the performance.
Ive been pretty ill this last few days but im feeling a lot better now (Not right mind)
Can you define the differences to your ears? Im just kinda intrigued as ive never heard the russ andrews one (I do have a classic, but the TM3 blows that away to my mind)
hey up Jase
Hows that TM3 cable come along?
Now then Rik, hows it going?
Right the TM3 !! Id say by now its fully burnt in as its been around 5 to 6 mths & the sound had become "very" noticably better as like you say silver seems to take alot longer before changes do become noticable. Also the Reference should have already peaked, now even though the TM3 produces a great sound & great value for money i do prefer the sound of the Reference, its not so much better but just different, or is it better? mmmm? Well, theres something i just prefer?
Now for the twist? My mate who had the Reference didnt share my enthusiasm with it (on his own system that is) as he says he couldnt tell the difference between that & the classic powerkord, so it just goes to show that we only hear what we want. As ive just been recently talking to wireman about the fact id like to try an untreated kord to see what differences are as id love to know what DCT treatment actually adds to the performance.
Ive been pretty ill this last few days but im feeling a lot better now (Not right mind)
Can you define the differences to your ears? Im just kinda intrigued as ive never heard the russ andrews one (I do have a classic, but the TM3 blows that away to my mind)
idc
Well-known member
- Jan 2, 2008
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jase fox:........its not so much better but just different, or is it better? mmmm?.......
Jase, sometimes this is like being asked to describe a smell or taste! Does it make you foot tap more? Do you get spine tingles more frequently? Does the music as a whole have more of a lift to it? Have you got any tester tracks you can say, 'that has a clearer treble'? Does it sound more realistic?
Jase, sometimes this is like being asked to describe a smell or taste! Does it make you foot tap more? Do you get spine tingles more frequently? Does the music as a whole have more of a lift to it? Have you got any tester tracks you can say, 'that has a clearer treble'? Does it sound more realistic?
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