Class A - Wattage (Marantz PM7200)

[Entrigo]

Hi,

So, have been re-discovering my Marantz playing in class A, which I had forgotten about. I was initially one of those people who couldn't 't tell the difference, but once you start playing it, it does seem to be much more engaging and involving.

So, after fretting for months about an upgrade (mostly as my n.1 and n.2 choice are extremely hard to come by on the used market) I decided to make the most of the Marantz, especially using class A.

Long story short - specs say it has 25 watts in class A. What does that mean? As in, how do I make sure I keep it in class A? Is there a dB threshold or something?

Notwithstanding that if it sounds good, all is good - I want to try and maximise class A playback, and avoid accidentally "exiting" this golden zone (especially as for me, it is a pretty subtle difference, as above, so I might not immediately realise).

Thanks!

P.s. the "Wattage for Dummies" version

P.s. 2 - My speakers are 89dB rated, and my listening position is about 2.2 metres away. According to my new best friend Chat GPT if the volume at my listening position is below 90dB, I should be well within the 25 W limit (and still in class A). Is that correct?

 

[Al ears]

Hi,

So, have been re-discovering my Marantz playing in class A, which I had forgotten about. I was initially one of those people who couldn't 't tell the difference, but once you start playing it, it does seem to be much more engaging and involving.

So, after fretting for months about an upgrade (and with my n.1 and m.2 choice being extremely hard to come by on the used market) I decided to make the most of the Marantz, especially using class A.

Long story short - specs say it has 25 watts in class A. What does that mean? As in, how do I make sure I keep it in class A? Is there a dB threshold or something?

Notwithstanding that if it sounds good, all is good - I want to try and maximise class A playback, and avoid accidentally "exiting" this golden zone (especially as for me, it is a pretty subtle difference, as above, so I might not immediately realise).

Thanks!

P.s. the "Wattage for Dummies" version

not sure on the technologies involved but I would have thought, if you have very efficient speakers, you are unlikely to use more than those 25 watts.
See this thread:-

Marantz PM7200 Class A and Class A/B any good?

Hey all, was just having a browse on the bay and came across one of these in really good condition, was wondering if anyone knew anything about them, i googled the model and read a few reviews havent found a bad one yet. In the description on the bay it says it runs 95 watts in class A/B and 25...

forums.whathifi.com

 

[Entrigo]

not sure on the technologies involved but I would have thought, if you have very efficient speakers, you are unlikely to use more than those 25 watts.
See this thread:-

Marantz PM7200 Class A and Class A/B any good?

Hey all, was just having a browse on the bay and came across one of these in really good condition, was wondering if anyone knew anything about them, i googled the model and read a few reviews havent found a bad one yet. In the description on the bay it says it runs 95 watts in class A/B and 25...

forums.whathifi.com

That is what I was thinking if the AI calculations are correct!

I don't think I ever go over 80/85 dB at my listening position (also as I live in a Victorian terraced house with flimsy walls )

And there I was for months worrying that an amp with 70 watts was not powerful enough...

P.s. That thread is probably the one that made me decide to pull the trigger on the amp a year ago

 

[twinkletoes]

Hi,

So, have been re-discovering my Marantz playing in class A, which I had forgotten about. I was initially one of those people who couldn't 't tell the difference, but once you start playing it, it does seem to be much more engaging and involving.

So, after fretting for months about an upgrade (mostly as my n.1 and n.2 choice are extremely hard to come by on the used market) I decided to make the most of the Marantz, especially using class A.

Long story short - specs say it has 25 watts in class A. What does that mean? As in, how do I make sure I keep it in class A? Is there a dB threshold or something?

Notwithstanding that if it sounds good, all is good - I want to try and maximise class A playback, and avoid accidentally "exiting" this golden zone (especially as for me, it is a pretty subtle difference, as above, so I might not immediately realise).

Thanks!

P.s. the "Wattage for Dummies" version

P.s. 2 - My speakers are 89dB rated, and my listening position is about 2.2 metres away. According to my new best friend Chat GPT if the volume at my listening position is below 90dB, I should be well within the 25 W limit (and still in class A). Is that correct?

When class A is activated on the pm7200 (the little unassuming switch) the amp will stay there, It wont 'slide" in and out of this mode, it is 100% class A. It takes around 30mins for it too stabilise and reach temperature.
Im not sure if its single ended in this mode or not, its not stated so I assume its not.

class A quite simply means always on in theory leading to little to no crossover distortion but they're other short comings.

I have one at my mum house in champagne gold they are very good amps and when it goes wrong ill be spending the money to put it right