Bi-wire or bi-amp

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Considering altering the set-up at home, but unsure of the best way to go. I run Cambridge Audio Azur 540C and 540A, Thorens TD160 Mk2 with a pair of Kef Cresta 3s. I also have a spare Technics SUA900 Mk2 - a little prone to knocking itself out when pushed a bit, hence the 540A replacement. Musical tastes mainly rock/metal.

Question I'm asking is - is it better to just bi-wire the Crestas or to bi-amp using my old Technics (assuming the two amps are compatible).

Views welcomed.
 
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Anonymous

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Bi-Amping is a better proposition when you are using identical amplifiers, and possibly with amps from the same manufacturer and range, but in your case, with different amps of different outputs from different manufacturers, I would bi-wire with some quality cable.
 
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Anonymous

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Hi Andrew, sent the info you requested re my LG Blu-Ray issue early last week but did not get confirmation from anyone at the office acknowledging receipt.
Could you please check and confirm you receeived it when you are back in the office Monday?
Ta,
Gerry.
 
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Anonymous

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I suspected that bi-wiring would be better in this case. Given that I have a reel of cable sitting looking for something to do, I'll do it that way - cheaper than spending another £250 on a second Cambridge!

Any ideas on why my Technics gives up the ghost? The protection circuitry was prone to cutting in at even modest output. My initial thought was a problem with the cooling fan (as it never cut in) but I'd welcome any other ideas, as well as thoughts as to whether it's worth getting it looked at.
 

Andrew Everard

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[quote user="Oldskool"]Hi Andrew, sent the info you requested re my LG Blu-Ray issue early last week but did not get confirmation from anyone at the office acknowledging receipt.
Could you please check and confirm you receeived it when you are back in the office Monday?
Ta,
Gerry.[/quote]

Received and passed on to Joe Cox, News Editor, who's looking into it
 
A

Anonymous

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I had a Technics SUV90D which I believe is reasonably similar - from the same range and era. The protection circuitry is more likely to trip due to an excessive load rather than heat. Does it do it when cold? Provided you are happy that there are no shorts in the speaker cables, (check resistance with a meter) or no bad/earthed connectors at the amp or speaker end connections, and the speaker resistance is not too low, then I feel the amp is not worth fixing and is best used at low output in the garage.
Shame if that is the case cos that was a really nice amp in its day.
 
A

Anonymous

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It used to do it when cold as well. Fire it up, put on a bit of rock, and it'd cut out - sometimes after as little as 15 minutes or so. Volume control was never set beyond 1/4 way. Definitely no shorts with the cables - they're used still to run the Cambridge. It currently sits in its box in the loft as a "last chance" spare in case the Cambridge goes. I was quoted about £40 to have it checked at a local dealer three years ago, but thought it might be good money thrown after bad.

As you say, a pity as it's still a cracking amp.
 

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