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I would keep the XS, forget about the sub and the NAP200, and replace the present speakers (R3's) with a sealed box design that can be used close to walls and has some decent bass. (ATC SCM11's).
Two days after I started using my N-Sats, I had to plug my old R3's back in to demo them for their buyer. It was a shock just how muffled the R3's sounded in comparison.
Obviously the N-Sats would not suit your room or your chosen volume levels, nor produce enough bass - given that you are asking about subwoofers - but I strongly urge you to try out a good sealed box design.
I have heard enough of the ATC SCM11's in a friend's system (with a Primare i30) to confidently recommend trying them in your room. I am confident too that they will have enough bass for you.
i'd agree with chebby, about the sub anyway. i asked a while back about a sub with my dyn's at my local hifi shop, the guy who works there said it can work well but is a real sod to get them to integrate properly, and can ruin the sound if you fail. never heard the r3's so chebbs is in a much better position to advise re a speaker change, but with atc (esp the 19's or 40's) you'll get the full benefit of any future amp upgrades.
I own one and like it. I have read it was designed or built by REL for Rega, but do not know if that is true. It is suppose to be more musical than many subs, but it is the only one I have owned so do not know how it compares.
I am very happy with my Rega Vulcan. I think it works extremely well with music and adds guts to movie sound tracks. I use mission 731i bookshelf/stand speakers for front and rear stereo pairs, and it made a huge improvement to music when I added it. With movies it can add guts and substance to the sound track and if you are into bass heavy movies like say the Jurassic park trilogy is extremely impressive. Using test tones it goes very deep below 20Hz in my home cinema room 114" by 169". It is also very tightly controlled not boomy. I can not hear the subwoofer as the source of any sound when it is on, but can certainly hear the difference it makes when it is switched off. I have it sitting on a paving slab in the corner with the center of the sub about 18" from one wall and 13" from the other. I use the low level input volume set at just under 1/3, just below the first marker. I have the crossover set to just below the marker seperating AV from HiFi ranges.
It could do with more numbered markings on the dial for setting the crossover roll off, and more markings on the volume contol. The high level input recommended for hifi stereo is the same as some Rel subwoofers use, so it is a good idea to buy it with the cable if you can as they are not cheap. I did not get cables with mine and have not bothered buying the cable and connecting it via the high level inputs as I think it works fine using the low level inputs.
Originally many years ago I think the RRP was $1295. But I would not pay too much for one now as they can be had very cheap, I paid £80 including delivery a few years ago. But it did not come with any cables.
Rega Vulcan Specs
Enclosure volume 13 Litres Sealed. Drive Unit 200mm Long throw magnesium chassis,
Seperate switchable high level and low level input.
High Level Input Professional Switchcraft HPC Series (recommended for Hifi stereo use). High Level Gain control 0 to 37dB
Low Level Input Gold plated phono (two, recommended for AV home cinema use). Low Level Gain control 0 to 57dB
Amplifier Power 100 Watts RMS / 200 Watts peak
Frequency Range 17Hz to 240Hz depending on frequency seting. Up to 3KHz in processor position
Frequency Control marked from 30Hz to 230Hz, also marked HiFi, AV, Full Range
I bought a sub for my 2 channel hi-fi set up, a REL Strata II, a few months ago.
I'd agree that it can take a bit of time to get the integration right (it took me about a month of fiddling, thinking I had it right, then finding it boomy, changing it again) However, it's worth the work. It adds a depth to the music that you won't get with speakers, standmount or floorstander.
I find that the benefits apply to whatever genre you play. Metal and rock are completely transformed, making the tracks absorbing foot tappers. Classical stuff gets a dose of more realism, especially on strings, from the extra bottom end.