Yamaha A-S501 - Subwoofer Out doesn't send signals. Requesting advice.

[SkidNY]

I just purchased a used but pristine Yamaha A-S501. I paired this with brand new Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-600M II bookshelf speakers and my Technics SL1950 Turntable. Digital music is through my Sharp XL-HF102B, which allows me to connect via Spotify/Bluetooth and also the built-in CD Player and Tuner.
I am blown away by the combined performance of the Yamaha and the Klipsch speakers. I only have one issue, which I am hoping the experts on this platform may help me resolve. I am trying to connect the subwoofer out on the Yamaha A-S501 with a passive subwoofer (Samsung PS-FW1-2) and am not getting any signal on the subwoofer when I use the dedicated subwoofer out, via RCA jack on the amp and bare wire (clips) on the sub.
My first thought was to check if the subwoofer is ok. I tested it by connecting the Speaker B output on the amp via banana jacks to the bare (clip) connection on the sub. It gave perfect sound.
Why isn't the subwoofer out working? Is it a fault with the amp? Can I resolve it myself or should I take it to a professional? Full disclosure, I am not the greatest of experts in electronic fixing, I can just about solder adequately. Also, I am a bit reluctant to open up this beautiful amp and tinker inside (don't wish to ruin it).
Do I need to ditch this cheap sub and splurge on a more expensive (perhaps powered?) version?
I would be really grateful for any suggestions/fixes.
Thanks all, in advance.

 

[My2Cents]

The' sub out' requires a powered subwoofer.
Just curious, how are you connecting the Sharp XL-HF102B to the Yamaha, it has no line outs that I can see?

 

[Cork]

The sub-out is a non-amplified line out, which requires a powered amp. You sub is passive and not powered. More modern subs often have an additional powered connection with outputs to left/right speakers, but the Samsung doesn't have that. So you either have to get a more traditional powered sub, or get a mono-amp. I wouldn't advise getting a mono amp for the older Samsung.

 

[SkidNY]

The sub-out is a non-amplified line out, which requires a powered amp. You sub is passive and not powered. More modern subs often have an additional powered connection with outputs to left/right speakers, but the Samsung doesn't have that. So you either have to get a more traditional powered sub, or get a mono-amp. I wouldn't advise getting a mono amp for the older Samsung.

Thank you - so if I understand correctly, I am looking to purchase a powered sub.
I am looking at Klipsch, to match with my speakers. One is the new Klipsch Reference R-120SW and the other is a used Klipsch R-12SW. What do you think of these? Or perhaps you can suggest another one? I would like to keep the cost down, if possible.

 

[SkidNY]

The' sub out' requires a powered subwoofer.
Just curious, how are you connecting the Sharp XL-HF102B to the Yamaha, it has no line outs that I can see?

I simply use the headphone out (using a 3.5 mm to RCA adapter cable). Works beautifully.

 

[My2Cents]

You could use the Yamaha's B speaker terminals and do this, but I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[My2Cents]

I simply use the headphone out (using a 3.5 mm to RCA adapter cable). Works beautifully.

Which input on the Yamaha do you use to plug the Sharp's headphone out into?
Headphone 'out' to RCA pre-amp 'in' is never a good long term solution.

BTW: You are not getting anywhere near the sound quality from your Yamaha and Klipsch speakers that they are capable of with your current 'Jerry-rigged' set up.
If done correctly you probably wouldn't even need that cheap little soundbar sub.

 

[My2Cents]

Instead of $300 on a powered sub. just buy a WiiM pro plus for 220 and ditch the Sharp.
If you think the sound is good now you might just be blown away.

 

[SkidNY]

Which input on the Yamaha do you use to plug the Sharp's headphone out into?
Headphone 'out' to RCA pre-amp 'in' is never a good long term solution.

BTW: You are not getting anywhere near the sound quality from your Yamaha and Klipsch speakers that they are capable of with your current 'Jerry-rigged' set up.
If done correctly you probably wouldn't even need that cheap little soundbar sub.

I checked both 'Line 1' and 'Line 2'. Both work, seemingly perfectly, at least to my untutored ear. It also works very well with the 'CD' input. No drop in quality or sound level on any of the three inputs. I use the preamp or phono input dedicated to my Technics SL1950

 

[Integralista]

Thank you - so if I understand correctly, I am looking to purchase a powered sub.
I am looking at Klipsch, to match with my speakers. One is the new Klipsch Reference R-120SW and the other is a used Klipsch R-12SW. What do you think of these? Or perhaps you can suggest another one? I would like to keep the cost down, if possible.

Hi,

look for matching sub from Klipsch. Powered for sure😃

 

[Cork]

You could use the Yamaha's B speaker terminals and do this, but I wouldn't recommend it.

I like this idea since it's an A/B amp and not a zone-1/2. Why do you advise against it?

 

[Cork]

... so if I understand correctly, I am looking to purchase a powered sub.
I am looking at Klipsch, to match with my speakers. ...

Subs are not really my thing, but what I do know is that you don't have to match subs. (You really only have to match the fronts, and if you're being hardcore, the surrounds. The subs I have on my theater systems are all Hsu's and they've performed well.

Those subs did not have great manuals so I couldn't get to the specs. But by default I wouldn't trust the amp on a $200 sub, so of those two I'd go with the R-120SW.

 

[SkidNY]

Instead of $300 on a powered sub. just buy a WiiM pro plus for 220 and ditch the Sharp.
If you think the sound is good now you might just be blown away.

That's an excellent suggestion, thanks!

 

[My2Cents]

I like this idea since it's an A/B amp and not a zone-1/2. Why do you advise against it?

Lots of reasons.
1) His sub doesn't have a crossover so it's going to sound like junk as it attempts to reproduce the entire frequency range sent by the amp.
2) I believe that his sub. is 3 ohms. Wired this way it needs to be a minimum of around 12 (when bridging, the speakers need to be twice the amps. minimum recommended resistance).
3) As the volume increases as the main speakers are turned up the Yamaha may just blow it up (or it will distort like crazy).
4) This amp requires speaker loads to be 8 ohms or higher if A and B are used together (and the impedance switch set to LOW). This set up would compromise that requirement and may trip the amps. overheat protection if driven at high power levels.
5) The Klipsch speakers are probably capable of better bass extension than that little sub. so what's the point?
6) I actually owned a Samsung soundbar with a similar sub. Yes, it was waaaay better than the TV's built in sound but the bass was woolly, muffled and basically not very good.

 

[My2Cents]

That's an excellent suggestion, thanks!

Only you would be missing a CD source? Perhaps you could pick up a used CD player locally on marketplace, possibly a used WiiM too and still be under budget?

 

[My2Cents]

I checked both 'Line 1' and 'Line 2'. Both work, seemingly perfectly, at least to my untutored ear. It also works very well with the 'CD' input. No drop in quality or sound level on any of the three inputs. I use the preamp or phono input dedicated to my Technics SL1950

Well that's good, but you have already degraded the sound coming into the Yamaha.
Checking that you haven't accidentally turned up the volume on the Sharp before switching on the Yamaha every time you use it could be a pain though?

 

[SkidNY]

Only you would be missing a CD source? Perhaps you could pick up a used CD player locally on marketplace, possibly a used WiiM too and still be under budget?

Thanks, as it happens, I am looking at a Yamaha CD-C600. Just weighing if I do need to spend the extra for CDs, as the only thing I seem to listen to these days is Spotify and sometimes, my vinyl. Then again, I would probably spend money on a sub (zeroing in on Klipsch Reference R-120SW) and keep my Sharp for CDs and Bluetooth. Seems to be the most economical compromise, without giving up quality.

 

[SkidNY]

Well that's good, but you have already degraded the sound coming into the Yamaha.
Checking that you haven't accidentally turned up the volume on the Sharp before switching on the Yamaha every time you use it could be a pain though?

I actually keep the volume on the Sharp at a constant 50% and only modulate the volume on the Yamaha. That seems to be the way to minimize distortion. I live in an apartment, so there's no question of maxing out the volume, without getting lynched by irate neighbors.
I would definitely not presume to call me an audiophile, but I like the sound I am hearing, both from the Technics and from the Sharp (CD or Bluetooth).

 

[SkidNY]

Another quick question - if I buy the Klipsch Reference R-120SW, I would only need a 'subwoofer cable' i.e. a single RCA to single RCA (to the L/LFE jack on the sub), correct? Please advise.
Clarification - my amplifier (Yamaha A-S501) has a single RCA subwoofer out. The Klipsch Reference R-120SW has two RCA ins, (L/LFE + R). So, single RCA to single RCA or single RCA to 2 RCA (L+R)? I would really appreciate advice.

 

[SkidNY]

Just bought the Klipsch Reference R-120SW! Eagerly anticipating the package!
Thanks to everyone for the good advice.

 

[My2Cents]

Another quick question - if I buy the Klipsch Reference R-120SW, I would only need a 'subwoofer cable' i.e. a single RCA to single RCA (to the L/LFE jack on the sub), correct? Please advise.
Clarification - my amplifier (Yamaha A-S501) has a single RCA subwoofer out. The Klipsch Reference R-120SW has two RCA ins, (L/LFE + R). So, single RCA to single RCA or single RCA to 2 RCA (L+R)? I would really appreciate advice.

here's and excerpt from the manual online @ Klipsch.com
Amazing that you didn't spend the money on a better front end. Depending on your room and how it's furnished much of that bass may well get lost and cause room modes that will affect other frequencies that may disappear into the ether.

 

[My2Cents]

Thanks, as it happens, I am looking at a Yamaha CD-C600. Just weighing if I do need to spend the extra for CDs, as the only thing I seem to listen to these days is Spotify and sometimes, my vinyl. Then again, I would probably spend money on a sub (zeroing in on Klipsch Reference R-120SW) and keep my Sharp for CDs and Bluetooth. Seems to be the most economical compromise, without giving up quality.

You gave up quality connecting the Sharp to the A-S501 with a headphone out (and using Spotify and Bluetooth to boot)! LOL

 

[SkidNY]

Yeah, you are probably right. But as I mentioned earlier, to my untutored ear, it still sounds great. Besides, I have my vinyl collection +the technics sl1950 w/ortofon, when I need quality.

 

[SkidNY]

here's and excerpt from the manual online @ Klipsch.com
Amazing that you didn't spend the money on a better front end. Depending on your room and how it's furnished much of that bass may well get lost and cause room modes that will affect other frequencies that may disappear into the ether.

The choice of Klipsch RP600 II as front end was largely driven by budgetary concerns. For the money, these are probably the best available. I tried a few. I'd love to burn $15000 on a set of speakers, but that's not happening any time soon.

 

[My2Cents]

The choice of Klipsch RP600 II as front end was largely driven by budgetary concerns. For the money, these are probably the best available. I tried a few. I'd love to burn $15000 on a set of speakers, but that's not happening any time soon.

I'm sure the 600's are great, my point is that a sub woofer may not improve the bass and may cause more problems. Most bass punch in recordings is around the 500-1,000Hz range not in the sub frequency range of 20-70 ish (unless you listen to modern electronic music and or EDM)