Yamaha 3060 Atmos and DTS X speaker setup

[Deleted member 2457]

Hi, I was just wondering what setups are possible with the Yamaha 3060 amp? I suppose I would be looking at the B&W M1s going on the wall. And possibly adding another B&W pv1d. How many M1s could I have? Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 2457]

Hi, I was just wondering what setups are possible with the Yamaha 3060 amp? I suppose I would be looking at the B&W M1s going on the wall. And possibly adding another B&W pv1d. How many M1s could I have? Thanks.

Just reading the WHF review:

http://www.whathifi.com/yamaha/rx-a3060/review

It looks like I could've a 7.1.2 system - is that 2 M1s and another pv1d? Or Something else?

 

[Deleted member 2457]

Hi, I was just wondering what setups are possible with the Yamaha 3060 amp? I suppose I would be looking at the B&W M1s going on the wall. And possibly adding another B&W pv1d. How many M1s could I have? Thanks.

And 5.1.4?

 

[Deleted member 2457]

Just read this bit on WHF news page:

http://www.whathifi.com/advice/dolby-atmos-what-it-how-can-you-get-it

I think reading it I will scrap that idea.

 

[Benedict_Arnold]

The Yamaha RX-3060 decodes 11 channels but only has internal power amps for 9.

So you can get 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 out of it as it is. Adding a stereo power amp or using your "proper stereo" to power the fronts gives you the option to go to 7.2.4. Depending on your room size the final .2 or .4 bit may or may not be useful. In a "short" room the .4 speakers may end up too close to be able to discern their individual output. SOme would say that's how it's supposed to work, some would argue that the .4 bit can be overkill. And of course, unless you're using Atmos encoded source discs, it's all a bit moot. Personally, I would go for 7.2.2 rather than 5.2.4, but that's just me.

Atmos speakers work best if they're mounted in or on the ceiling. A .2 setup should have the speakers roughly over but slightly ahead of your main listening position. A .4 setup should see them located in front of and behind your main listening position, at angles between 30 and 45 degrees off horizontal. So if your ceiling is 8 feet high and your ears are 3 feet above the ground when on your couch, the speakers should be between (8-3)=5 and 5/tan(30) = 8-foot 8 inches ahead of and behind your main listening position. Closer than that and the two pairs won't be discernable, further than that and you'll start to notice "holes" in the sound field. My media room is 19 feet long, with the MLP half-way down, and my sepakers are located rounghly 5 feet from the front and back walls, at the quarter-points, so I have roughly a 10-foot gap between them.

Second best seems to be using height speakers mounted where the walls meet the ceiling, angled downwards towards the MLP. I keep on about the Klipsch RP-140SA units - see below - but they're expensive and I'm sure you can figure out what you could do with a set of second hand bookshelf speakers and a tenon saw for much cheaper.



Speakers with drivers in their tops or add-on speakers that bounce sound off the ceiling can be really hit or miss, and a lot depends on your ceiling materials and seating position(s) as anything else, so best avoided.

 

[Deleted member 2457]

The Yamaha RX-3060 decodes 11 channels but only has internal power amps for 9.

So you can get 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 out of it as it is. Adding a stereo power amp or using your "proper stereo" to power the fronts gives you the option to go to 7.2.4. Depending on your room size the final .2 or .4 bit may or may not be useful. In a "short" room the .4 speakers may end up too close to be able to discern their individual output. SOme would say that's how it's supposed to work, some would argue that the .4 bit can be overkill. And of course, unless you're using Atmos encoded source discs, it's all a bit moot. Personally, I would go for 7.2.2 rather than 5.2.4, but that's just me.

Atmos speakers work best if they're mounted in or on the ceiling. A .2 setup should have the speakers roughly over but slightly ahead of your main listening position. A .4 setup should see them located in front of and behind your main listening position, at angles between 30 and 45 degrees off horizontal. So if your ceiling is 8 feet high and your ears are 3 feet above the ground when on your couch, the speakers should be between (8-3)=5 and 5/tan(30) = 8-foot 8 inches ahead of and behind your main listening position. Closer than that and the two pairs won't be discernable, further than that and you'll start to notice "holes" in the sound field. My media room is 19 feet long, with the MLP half-way down, and my sepakers are located rounghly 5 feet from the front and back walls, at the quarter-points, so I have roughly a 10-foot gap between them.

Second best seems to be using height speakers mounted where the walls meet the ceiling, angled downwards towards the MLP. I keep on about the Klipsch RP-140SA units - see below - but they're expensive and I'm sure you can figure out what you could do with a set of second hand bookshelf speakers and a tenon saw for much cheaper.

Speakers with drivers in their tops or add-on speakers that bounce sound off the ceiling can be really hit or miss, and a lot depends on your ceiling materials and seating position(s) as anything else, so best avoided.

Cheers mate - very helpful, unfortunately I have decided to cancel my loan of the amp. What about Marantz amps? How do they compare? What do they both sound like, I see the Marantz flagship is £1200 - not bad. Thanks.

 

[buzz_lightclick]

The Yamaha RX-3060 decodes 11 channels but only has internal power amps for 9.

So you can get 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 out of it as it is. Adding a stereo power amp or using your "proper stereo" to power the fronts gives you the option to go to 7.2.4. Depending on your room size the final .2 or .4 bit may or may not be useful. In a "short" room the .4 speakers may end up too close to be able to discern their individual output. SOme would say that's how it's supposed to work, some would argue that the .4 bit can be overkill. And of course, unless you're using Atmos encoded source discs, it's all a bit moot. Personally, I would go for 7.2.2 rather than 5.2.4, but that's just me.

Atmos speakers work best if they're mounted in or on the ceiling. A .2 setup should have the speakers roughly over but slightly ahead of your main listening position. A .4 setup should see them located in front of and behind your main listening position, at angles between 30 and 45 degrees off horizontal. So if your ceiling is 8 feet high and your ears are 3 feet above the ground when on your couch, the speakers should be between (8-3)=5 and 5/tan(30) = 8-foot 8 inches ahead of and behind your main listening position. Closer than that and the two pairs won't be discernable, further than that and you'll start to notice "holes" in the sound field. My media room is 19 feet long, with the MLP half-way down, and my sepakers are located rounghly 5 feet from the front and back walls, at the quarter-points, so I have roughly a 10-foot gap between them.

Second best seems to be using height speakers mounted where the walls meet the ceiling, angled downwards towards the MLP. I keep on about the Klipsch RP-140SA units - see below - but they're expensive and I'm sure you can figure out what you could do with a set of second hand bookshelf speakers and a tenon saw for much cheaper.

Speakers with drivers in their tops or add-on speakers that bounce sound off the ceiling can be really hit or miss, and a lot depends on your ceiling materials and seating position(s) as anything else, so best avoided.

Cheers mate - very helpful, unfortunately I have decided to cancel my loan of the amp. What about Marantz amps? How do they compare? What do they both sound like, I see the Marantz flagship is £1200 - not bad. Thanks.

Why have you cancelled the loan of the amp? Didn't you like the sound or didn't you get that far?

 

[Benedict_Arnold]

I bought my Marantz 7010 at full US price of $2100 plus tax just before the 7011 came out. Only saving grace was that I got it on interest free. That having been said, the sound is great, and the extra features of the 7011 wouldn't have interested me anyway.

I use it in a 19 ft x 12 ft 6 in dedicated media room with a cheap Onkyo M-5010 power amp to drive the rear overheads in a 7.2.4 setup.

Absolutely no complaints whatsoever.

If you're buying new I'd look at the 6011 or 7011, or the 6010 and 7010 on discount and if there's any left.

I believe the 6011 will "do" 11 channels using a stereo amp in addition to the internal amps. It doesn't have the HEOS capability of the7011 and might be a few watts down on power, but it's a lot cheaper than the 7011.

 

[Benedict_Arnold]

The Yamaha RX-3060 decodes 11 channels but only has internal power amps for 9.

So you can get 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 out of it as it is.  Adding a stereo power amp or using your "proper stereo" to power the fronts gives you the option to go to 7.2.4.  Depending on your room size the final .2 or .4 bit may or may not be useful.  In a "short" room the .4 speakers may end up too close to be able to discern their individual output.  SOme would say that's how it's supposed to work, some would argue that the .4 bit can be overkill.  And of course, unless you're using Atmos encoded source discs, it's all a bit moot.  Personally, I would go for 7.2.2 rather than 5.2.4, but that's just me.

Atmos speakers work best if they're mounted in or on the ceiling.  A .2 setup should have the speakers roughly over but slightly ahead of your main listening position.  A .4 setup should see them located in front of and behind your main listening position, at angles between 30 and 45 degrees off horizontal.  So if your ceiling is 8 feet high and your ears are 3 feet above the ground when on your couch, the speakers should be between (8-3)=5 and 5/tan(30) = 8-foot 8 inches ahead of and behind your main listening position.  Closer than that and the two pairs won't be discernable, further than that and you'll start to notice "holes" in the sound field.  My media room is 19 feet long, with the MLP half-way down, and my sepakers are located rounghly 5 feet from the front and back walls, at the quarter-points, so I have roughly a 10-foot gap between them.

Second best seems to be using height speakers mounted where the walls meet the ceiling, angled downwards towards the MLP.  I keep on about the Klipsch RP-140SA units - see below - but they're expensive and I'm sure you can figure out what you could do with a set of second hand bookshelf speakers and a tenon saw for much cheaper.

 

Speakers with drivers in their tops or add-on speakers that bounce sound off the ceiling can be really hit or miss, and a lot depends on your ceiling materials and seating position(s) as anything else, so best avoided.

Cheers mate - very helpful, unfortunately I have decided to cancel my loan of the amp.  What about Marantz amps?  How do they compare?  What do they both sound like, I see the Marantz flagship is £1200 - not bad.  Thanks.  

Why have you cancelled the loan of the amp? Didn't you like the sound or didn't you get that far? 

He had a return bus ticket....

 

[Deleted member 2457]

The Yamaha RX-3060 decodes 11 channels but only has internal power amps for 9.

So you can get 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 out of it as it is. Adding a stereo power amp or using your "proper stereo" to power the fronts gives you the option to go to 7.2.4. Depending on your room size the final .2 or .4 bit may or may not be useful. In a "short" room the .4 speakers may end up too close to be able to discern their individual output. SOme would say that's how it's supposed to work, some would argue that the .4 bit can be overkill. And of course, unless you're using Atmos encoded source discs, it's all a bit moot. Personally, I would go for 7.2.2 rather than 5.2.4, but that's just me.

Atmos speakers work best if they're mounted in or on the ceiling. A .2 setup should have the speakers roughly over but slightly ahead of your main listening position. A .4 setup should see them located in front of and behind your main listening position, at angles between 30 and 45 degrees off horizontal. So if your ceiling is 8 feet high and your ears are 3 feet above the ground when on your couch, the speakers should be between (8-3)=5 and 5/tan(30) = 8-foot 8 inches ahead of and behind your main listening position. Closer than that and the two pairs won't be discernable, further than that and you'll start to notice "holes" in the sound field. My media room is 19 feet long, with the MLP half-way down, and my sepakers are located rounghly 5 feet from the front and back walls, at the quarter-points, so I have roughly a 10-foot gap between them.

Second best seems to be using height speakers mounted where the walls meet the ceiling, angled downwards towards the MLP. I keep on about the Klipsch RP-140SA units - see below - but they're expensive and I'm sure you can figure out what you could do with a set of second hand bookshelf speakers and a tenon saw for much cheaper.

Speakers with drivers in their tops or add-on speakers that bounce sound off the ceiling can be really hit or miss, and a lot depends on your ceiling materials and seating position(s) as anything else, so best avoided.

Cheers mate - very helpful, unfortunately I have decided to cancel my loan of the amp. What about Marantz amps? How do they compare? What do they both sound like, I see the Marantz flagship is £1200 - not bad. Thanks.

Why have you cancelled the loan of the amp? Didn't you like the sound or didn't you get that far?

I would've been paying nearly full price of the amp and the Yamaha's go down a fair bit in price.

 

[Deleted member 2457]

I bought my Marantz 7010 at full US price of $2100 plus tax just before the 7011 came out. Only saving grace was that I got it on interest free. That having been said, the sound is great, and the extra features of the 7011 wouldn't have interested me anyway.

I use it in a 19 ft x 12 ft 6 in dedicated media room with a cheap Onkyo M-5010 power amp to drive the rear overheads in a 7.2.4 setup.

Absolutely no complaints whatsoever.

If you're buying new I'd look at the 6011 or 7011, or the 6010 and 7010 on discount and if there's any left.

I believe the 6011 will "do" 11 channels using a stereo amp in addition to the internal amps. It doesn't have the HEOS capability of the7011 and might be a few watts down on power, but it's a lot cheaper than the 7011.

How would you describe the sound?

 

[bigboss]

Marantz is excellent. It's also very easy to set it up. You can easily do it yourself, simply follow the instructions. No prior knowledge is needed.

 

[Deleted member 2457]

Marantz is excellent. It's also very easy to set it up. You can easily do it yourself, simply follow the instructions. No prior knowledge is needed.

Thanks BB, are they powerful like a Pioneer or Yamaha? What are the main differences?

 

[Benedict_Arnold]

These days the main differences are the badges on the front, the shapes of the buttons, and the quality of the remotes...

Seriously, remember Denon and Marantz come from the same stable, as do Onkyo and Pioneer. Yamaha, Sony, and a few "boutique" brands like Arcam are the only "independents" out there.

Sound wise I can't fault the Marantz anywhere. Surround sound is superb, Atmos works as intended, drives two Polk PSW110 10 inch subs with aplomb, etc. etc.

TBH though my speaker options at the moment (Yamaha in walls or a pair of Krapsch floor standers) don't give me any basis to say how they sound with music.

 

[Benedict_Arnold]

Oh. The volume knob on the Marantz is logarithmic, so don't get upset if small movements at low levels don't change the output much, but at "60" and above the output is more than you're likely to need in anything short of the Albert Hall.

And if you DO have the Albert Hall to play in, you can always couple up external power amps to any or all of the Marantz 6 and 7 series. I'd suggest the Emotive CPA gen 3 (?), which is a modular design capable of driving up to seven channels at genuine 200+ wards RMS per channel. The individual power amps are on cards much like graphics cards in a PC so you simply add more amps / cards as you want/need/ can afford them. Once you add power amps for the main channels, that takes the strain off the receiver's power supply, so the remaining internally amplified channels step up to match the levels of the externally amplified ones.

 

[Deleted member 2457]

Oh. The volume knob on the Marantz is logarithmic, so don't get upset if small movements at low levels don't change the output much, but at "60" and above the output is more than you're likely to need in anything short of the Albert Hall.

Excellent. Thanks mate.

 

[Andrewjvt]

Ive got the 3050 model the year before yours and you really need to demo the q acoustics concept range. In the right room and right soace it will blow tour socks off. Id have 2 subs also. The clarity is top class and dynamic range very good.

 

[Deleted member 2457]

Ive got the 3050 model the year before yours and you really need to demo the q acoustics concept range. In the right room and right soace it will blow tour socks off. Id have 2 subs also. The clarity is top class and dynamic range very good.

Ah cheers, that's what I thought it would sound like.

 

[Deleted member 2457]

I just paid £1600 for the Yamaha 3060 amp in black.

 

[Q5]

I just paid £1600 for the Yamaha 3060 amp in black.

Good luck with it Gel, hope you like it.

 

[Deleted member 2457]

I just paid £1600 for the Yamaha 3060 amp in black.

Good luck with it Gel, hope you like it.

Ah thanks. I just passed on the offer though and trying to go back to my original deal so I get a loan and setup too. Cheers. I should still be getting one though, just want more warranty too.

 

[buzz_lightclick]

I just paid £1600 for the Yamaha 3060 amp in black.

Good luck with it Gel, hope you like it.

Ah thanks. I just passed on the offer though and trying to go back to my original deal so I get a loan and setup too. Cheers. I should still be getting one though, just want more warranty too.

So you agree a loan, then cancel a loan, then buy one then cancel the purchase and try to arrange another loan instead?! *dash1*

 

[Deleted member 2457]

I just paid £1600 for the Yamaha 3060 amp in black.

Good luck with it Gel, hope you like it.

Ah thanks. I just passed on the offer though and trying to go back to my original deal so I get a loan and setup too. Cheers. I should still be getting one though, just want more warranty too.

So you agree a loan, then cancel a loan, then buy one then cancel the purchase and try to arrange another loan instead?! *dash1*

Basically yeah but now I have changed my mind again and just want to keep my Pioneer.

 

[buzz_lightclick]

I just paid £1600 for the Yamaha 3060 amp in black.

Good luck with it Gel, hope you like it.

Ah thanks. I just passed on the offer though and trying to go back to my original deal so I get a loan and setup too. Cheers. I should still be getting one though, just want more warranty too.

So you agree a loan, then cancel a loan, then buy one then cancel the purchase and try to arrange another loan instead?! *dash1*

Basically yeah but now I have changed my mind again and just want to keep my Pioneer.

At least a loan is free so if you try one out and decide you don't want to keep it, at least it wouldn't cost you anything?

 

[Deleted member 2457]

I just paid £1600 for the Yamaha 3060 amp in black.

Good luck with it Gel, hope you like it.

Ah thanks. I just passed on the offer though and trying to go back to my original deal so I get a loan and setup too. Cheers. I should still be getting one though, just want more warranty too.

So you agree a loan, then cancel a loan, then buy one then cancel the purchase and try to arrange another loan instead?! *dash1*

Basically yeah but now I have changed my mind again and just want to keep my Pioneer.

At least a loan is free so if you try one out and decide you don't want to keep it, at least it wouldn't cost you anything?

£70 the loan was. Or you could possibly get one free but then pay return postage.