What Thorens should i buy

Mickfromdenmark

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Hello everyone I am looking to buy a vintage/older Thorens TT.

Question is which one to buy, i have looked at a TD 160S with a SME 3009 s2 arm and TD 320 MK 2 with tp 90 arm.

My budget is around 600£ so is there something that is better sounding or which of the two mentioned would you say is the better and why? Fyi i do not like the look of the TD 124 or 125!

Regards Mick
 
Mickfromdenmark said:
Hello everyone I am looking to buy a vintage/older Thorens TT.

Question is which one to buy, i have looked at a TD 160S with a SME 3009 s2 arm and TD 320 MK 2 with tp 90 arm.

My budget is around 600£ so is there something that is better sounding or which of the two mentioned would you say is the better and why? Fyi i do not like the look of the TD 124 or 125!

Regards Mick

Can I ask a couple of questions?

What cartridge do you intend using with these turntables and are you familiar with turntable set-up and repairs?
 
Gray said:
I've owned a 160S from new, seemed quite expensive at the time.

Turns out to have been somewhat of an investment though.

I like it (but then I would say that)

A lot of people appear to say the same. If the OP knows someone who can set up the suspension properly then this, out of the two listed, would be the one I would go for.

The 320 Mk2 is also excellent and possibly easier to set-up but I must profess to know nothing about the quality of the TP-90 tonearm which apparently many users replaced. This is a more modern deck and, as such, might have a few less 'issues'. Having said that most 'tweakers' tend to go for the older 160
 

Mickfromdenmark

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I have next to none experience with repairing turntables, but quiete handy (not bragging).

But i must admit that i fell into temptation bought the TD 160s before it was gone, and considering it has a SME arm i think that upgradeitis will be cured for some time.

Some eye candy for you guys.

thorens%203.jpeg


thorens%201.jpeg
 
Mickfromdenmark said:
I have next to none experience with repairing turntables, but quiete handy (not bragging).

But i must admit that i fell into temptation bought the TD 160s before it was gone, and considering it has a SME arm i think that upgradeitis will be cured for some time.

Some eye candy for you guys.

I must say it looks to be in very good condition. What cartridge is fitted to it? If that's original or thereabouts it may be best to replace it so no chance of damaging your vinyl. Hope there is enough left in your budget to do that.

PS: Is that an Akai reel-to-reel I see?
 
You’ve definitely chosen the better model I think. However, I cannot spot the anti skating weight on the arm. It might be my eyes, but without that you’ll never get optimum performance from whatever cartridge you use. It is a nylon thread that atttaches to the rearward pointing graduated stub, then passes over the little pulley to the left.

The cartridge might be an old Ortofon VMS, probably a 20.
 
nopiano said:
You’ve definitely chosen the better model I think. However, I cannot spot the anti skating weight on the arm. It might be my eyes, but without that you’ll never get optimum performance from whatever cartridge you use. It is a nylon thread that atttaches to the rearward pointing graduated stub, then passes over the little pulley to the left.

The cartridge might be an old Ortofon VMS, probably a 20.

I thought that, first registered as VMS 10, difficult to see (but if it's either I'd replace it), the anti skate I didn't notice but you are right, this little weight and thread are often misplaced on turntable moves. The thread can be very fine but there is certainly no sign of the weight.
 

Gray

Well-known member
Check to see if your start-up is smooth.

There's a clever (in theory) little clutch mechanism built into the motor pulley designed to ease the platter into rotation from stationary.

If this isn't working properly, the platter will judder into motion on start-up.

Using an allen key, you can take the pulley apart. Inside there's a spring-pressured felt washer designed to do the slipping but this can stick, resulting in no clutch action.

You may be OK, but if you have got the judder, until you sort out the clutch, be sure to give the platter a helping hand into motion just before switching the motor.

Also, when you look at the speed change arrangement, you'll see why it's good practice not to be changing speed from stop but to do it while the platter is in motion.

Both the above will do the belt a favour.
 
Mickfromdenmark said:
The cartridge is a Ortofon m20FL Super, Gold body.
Ah, thanks. That's why I recognised the gold finish as I once owned this. Funnily I still have the box, and the tiny little capacitance loading device that fitted over the pins. Quite a warm sound, I recall. On reflection, the cheaper VMS20 had a silver body I think, though the overall shape was the same.
 
nopiano said:
Mickfromdenmark said:
The cartridge is a Ortofon m20FL Super, Gold body.
Ah, thanks. That's why I recognised the gold finish as I once owned this. Funnily I still have the box, and the tiny little capacitance loading device that fitted over the pins. Quite a warm sound, I recall. On reflection, the cheaper VMS20 had a silver body I think, though the overall shape was the same.

Thanks for clarification Mick. The cartridge has been around for some time so will need careful examination. A replacement stylus can still be had (the D20FL) and the cartridge tracks best at 1.5g. The capacitance loading device that nopiano talks about is the Ortofon 210, a plate that touched all four pins and increased the capacitance by 210pf so, when fitted, the catridge showed with a total capacitance of 400pf.... I had one too ;-

PS Did you find that little weight on a thread?
 

Mickfromdenmark

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I have a small 30x magnifying glass used for stamps, jewelry etc. Was thinking that I would use that and look for concavity on the stylus. How to inspect the suspension on it? By ear? Have never heard the cartridge before.

Yes i also reveived a small weight for the antiskating system.

Best way to check this will be an antiskating LP? What method do you guys use?
 
Mickfromdenmark said:
I have a small 30x magnifying glass used for stamps, jewelry etc. Was thinking that I would use that and look for concavity on the stylus. How to inspect the suspension on it? By ear? Have never heard the cartridge before.

Yes i also reveived a small weight for the antiskating system.

Best way to check this will be an antiskating LP? What method do you guys use?

Suspension is difficult but obvious when it is shot. With the correct downforce applied there should be a good gap between base of cartridge and the surface of the LP and it should track without skipping, if cartridge 'bottoms-out' at any time then suspension has gone.. always assuming the LP you are testing with is good and flat and not warped to any degree. ;-)
 

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