nima said:
lindsayt said:
If overdrivern / drivern with a lot of clipping the insulation on the voicecoil of speaker drivers can melt from excessive heat, resulting in the voicecoil insulation rubbing on the magnets, which sounds like a horrible scratchy sound on bass transients. A replacement cone / complete driver would be the solution to that problem...
If overdriven / excessive clipping voicecoil wire can burn out - like an old filament light bulb. Voicecoil wire is hair thin. This results in a dead driver...
Some types of capacitors (found in the crossovers in passive speakers) can go off over time. Other types seem to stay within spec for decades. The solution to out of spec capacitors is to replace them. How easy this is to do depends on how easily accessible the crossover is and on soldering skills.
Dead driver means what? No sound? And in first case scenario if voicecoil melts, that's also something that would be noticed easily?
If there is a fault in crossover element could result in simply speaker not sounding as good as it should - something not so evident as previous 2 options?
Dead driver means that particular driver wont work. Usually the tweeters are burnt by irresponsible owners and can be difficult to tell one is not functioning in a multiway speaker design (especially if your hearing isn't the best at high frequencies). When buying second hand the most important listening test is to put your ear on the tweeters to hear they work.
It's also good to reasearch with 20 y/o + speakers if they have ferro-fluid cooling in the tweeter (and squaker in some cases). If yes, then that usually needs replacing with new f-f, which involves disassembling the driver (or replace it with a new equivalent).
Regarding crossovers, if the capacitors are gone bad they will certanly deteriorate the sound, but you may not notice this considering you have no reference how the 100% functioning speaker sounds. With 20 year old speakers general rule of thumb is to replace all electrolytic capacitors, resolder, refresh connections and clean switches and potentiometers. The differences before and after can be huge.
I had a situation with intermitent sound in a pair of vintage speakers and the solution was soldering the crimped internal wiring, which was the last thing on my mind. In a another speaker from the 90's I had the magnet come loose from the driver basket slightly and I heard rattling and distortion above certain loudness levels. I fixed it with resin since the old factory one failed after 15 years. A lot of detective work involved when buying oldies and especially when they are two decades or more, they have high chance to have some defect(s) even when they look and sound good. The materials alone deteriorate and go out of spec since these are transducers and the tolerances and reliability are different from electronics.
This is why JBL vintage speakers are very popular among vintage lovers. They were really good quality built even by todays standards and can survive abuse and 20+ years of service without going too much out of spec and the company still offers reconing kits and replacement drivers. No other company can match that.