NAD c350 just died, need a little advice

[MeanandGreen]

Hi everyone this is my first post. I have been lurking for a little while and consider myself a bit of an audiophile of sorts.

Anyway, my NAD c350 integrated amp which I have owned from new for about 13 years decided to just die last night (Xmas day typical). It smells like something has burned out and it won't even power up no lights, no relays clicking, no protection circuit, nothing.

Now is it going to be worth having it fixed, or should I just replace it? I love my NAD and didn't want a new amp, so if I need a new one I want a one that will sound as close as possible to my C350.

Will the C326BEE be a good option, I'm assuming things haven't changed that much so the NAD sound will be much the same all these years later?

My speakers are B&W DM601 S3, biwired with QED silver anniversary. Sources are Sony CDP-XB930 and iPod touch on an Arcam iR dock. QED qunex interconnects.

Thanks for any help!

 

[Anonymous]

It could be as simple as a blown fuse but yes, it could be more complicated

If you unplug it; leave it for a few hours and then take the top cover off. Where the power cable goes in there should be a glass fuse. If that's blown replace that with a correct fuse and try again. If that then blows then unfortunately it's going to need more repairing

If you're looking at replacing the NAD C326BEE is a brilliant amp and will work very well; as would the Marantz PM6004. These can still be bought new & 2nd hand

However if you want to save £££ and will consider 2nd hand; the NAD C320BEE, C352 (PD version) or C355BEE amps will work superbly with your speakers as would an Arcam Alpha 9 or Cyrus 8VS2 (these would be higher in price but not by a massive amount)

 

[MeanandGreen]

Thanks for your help

I have checked the fuse in the mains plug, and I have taken the cover off the amp and checked all of the internal fuses which are fine. There are no obvious visual signs of anything wrong although the burnt electrical type smell is around the power circuits. All of the caps look ok as in not leaking or charred, I just see this being an expense in labour more than anything else and in the meantime I have no music

I'm going to have a word with Richer Sounds repair dept to see if it is worth having it checked out. If not I think a new C326BEE will be my preferred option. I think second hand gear like this is a bit of a gamble, I could get a bargain or I could get a pig. I think if I replace it would have to be new.

Thanks again!

If anyone else has any experience of the C326BEE I'd like to hear it

 

[Anonymous]

No worries

I've heard the C326BEE with B&W 685's and CM1's as well as Monitor Audio RX1's and Dynaudio DM 2/6's (I think it was them) and it's a belter of an amp

It 'can' be a little bassy at times BUT using the right speaker cable and interconnects helps to control this. Decent thick core copper cable is sufficient but I'd also recommend Chord Carnival Silverscreen, Odyssey 2 and QED Revelation cables as well as Chord CrimsonPlus interconnects

 

[MeanandGreen]

Thank you for your advice

I have read that it can be a bit bass heavy, that doesn't worry me too much as long as it still sounds clear and detailed with it. I can always use my speakers foam bungs in the bass ports if required.

Thanks again I appreciate it

 

[plastic penguin]

Thank you for your advice

I have read that it can be a bit bass heavy, that doesn't worry me too much as long as it still sounds clear and detailed with it. I can always use my speakers foam bungs in the bass ports if required.

Thanks again I appreciate it

First, I would be wary of getting an old amp repaired: Like anything mechanical chances are it'll pick up other problems, although that isn't set in stone. Worth remembering though.

Any of the newer budget Nad amps would be a better decision IMO.

Second, I wouldn't bung the speakers. From personal experience, not only does it reduce bass but all other frequencies, too.

 

[MeanandGreen]

Yeah I do think having it repaired could be a gamble or not cost effective. I'll see what kind of quotes I get. Otherwise I'm just buying a new amp. Probably my preferred option now really, just need to convince the other half that I need to spend £300 right after Xmas! :roll:

 

[drummerman]

Thank you for your advice

I have read that it can be a bit bass heavy, that doesn't worry me too much as long as it still sounds clear and detailed with it. I can always use my speakers foam bungs in the bass ports if required.

Thanks again I appreciate it

First, I would be wary of getting an old amp repaired: Like anything mechanical chances are it'll pick up other problems, although that isn't set in stone. Worth remembering though.

Any of the newer budget Nad amps would be a better decision IMO.

Second, I wouldn't bung the speakers. From personal experience, not only does it reduce bass but all other frequencies, too.

Using bungs re-tunes ports, handy if port output co-incides with a major room mode. As for repairing, it is probably worth contacting a local hifi retailer with a repair department and see what they say. Most signifant problems would likely trip the fuses so it could be repairable at reasonable cost. Perhaps worth it if the repair is no more than what the product is worth secondhand.

regards

 

[plastic penguin]

Thank you for your advice

I have read that it can be a bit bass heavy, that doesn't worry me too much as long as it still sounds clear and detailed with it. I can always use my speakers foam bungs in the bass ports if required.

Thanks again I appreciate it

First, I would be wary of getting an old amp repaired: Like anything mechanical chances are it'll pick up other problems, although that isn't set in stone. Worth remembering though.

Any of the newer budget Nad amps would be a better decision IMO.

Second, I wouldn't bung the speakers. From personal experience, not only does it reduce bass but all other frequencies, too.

Using bungs re-tunes ports, handy if port output co-incides with a major room mode.

regards

Eh? got me on that one, DM. How does one retune a hole?

 

[Johnno2]

It could be as simple as a blown fuse but yes, it could be more complicated

If you unplug it; leave it for a few hours and then take the top cover off. Where the power cable goes in there should be a glass fuse. If that's blown replace that with a correct fuse and try again. If that then blows then unfortunately it's going to need more repairing

If you're looking at replacing the NAD C326BEE is a brilliant amp and will work very well; as would the Marantz PM6004. These can still be bought new & 2nd hand

However if you want to save £££ and will consider 2nd hand; the NAD C320BEE, C352 (PD version) or C355BEE amps will work superbly with your speakers as would an Arcam Alpha 9 or Cyrus 8VS2 (these would be higher in price but not by a massive amount)

I didnt realise there where two versions of NAD c352 whats the differnce between PD and non PD

 

[Anonymous]

The PD version was a later release of the amp and was tweaked to give a better overall sound...

I cant remember the full breakdown of the tweak and struggling to find the details online!

 

[drummerman]

Eh? got me on that one, DM. How does one retune a hole?

You change the frequency of the port/driver/internal volume etc contribution, also called Helmholtz Resonance, by changing the amount of airflow that is allowed to exit through it. The frequency of that resonance, usually higher with smaller speakers, lower with larger ones, can co-incide with what is generally called room modes which, simply put, exhagerate bass at certain frequencies. Using bungs can help to shift that out of this zone. Some bungs allow controlled airflow, some block it completely, creating in effect a sealed box. Books have been written about this and it is a complex task to find the ideal compromise when designing speakers.

Whistling or blowing across a bottle has similar effects, re-tuning a hole can also be achieved by musical farting.

regards

 

[plastic penguin]

Eh? got me on that one, DM. How does one retune a hole?

You change the frequency of the port/driver/internal volume etc contribution, also called Helmholtz Resonance, by changing the amount of airflow that is allowed to exit through it. The frequency of that resonance, usually higher with smaller speakers, lower with larger ones, can co-incide with what is generally called room modes which, simply put, exhagerate bass at certain frequencies. Using bungs can help to shift that out of this zone. Some bungs allow controlled airflow, some block it completely, creating in effect a sealed box. Books have been written about this and it is a complex task to find the ideal compromise when designing speakers.

Re-tuning a hole can also be achieved by musical farting.

regards

Holy warthog, have you swallowed a hi-fi dictionary?

If you suffer musical flatulence, I'd see your GP - or join a circus. :dance:

 

[MeanandGreen]

A new NAD C326BEE is on it's way to me now :dance:

Thanks for all of the replys chaps

I've spoken to a few repair shops and the general opinion was it would be cheaper and easier to buy another secondhand C350 which I didn't want to do. So I should have my C326BEE in the morning

 

[eggontoast]

Good choice, so how much do you want for your broken C350

 

[rymidd]

the nad c326bee is a lot better than it price may suggest .its has a natural sounding mid range fast tight bass , try not to stack anything on it becase it runs very hot.

 

[MeanandGreen]

Thanks for the tip. My components always have their own shelves on my equipment rack.

I'm looking forward to hear how it compares to my old amp.

 

[MeanandGreen]

the nad c326bee is a lot better than it price may suggest .its has a natural sounding mid range fast tight bass , try not to stack anything on it becase it runs very hot.

my last post was in response to this, I forgot the quote button