How much Blu Tack?

Lee H

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Now there's a line I thought I'd never type! So, I'll be getting some new speaker stands for my MA BX2s shortly, and have read about the virtues of using some Blu Tack between the speaker and the stand. How much though? Are we talking a pea sized amount, a squash ball size blob or something else altogether?

Is it then simply a case of a <insert blob size here> in each corner of the plate and carefully lower the speaker on, or do you push the speaker firmly on to the Blu Tack?
 

scene

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Sep 25, 2008
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Pea-sized blobs - yes - garden pea, not petit pois ;)

Blob in each corner or 2 front / one rear - depending on exact stand configuration. I would press down on top of the speaker enough to ensure the blu tak is compressed and the speaker is reasonably adhered, but not so crushed down that you cant see a perceptible gap between the stand and the speaker when you look closely.
 

Lee H

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Yes, but frozen or organic?
smiley-smile.gif


I'm probably going for the Soundstyle Z2's
 
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Anonymous

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You might want to get something to put over the blobs, as the spears finish will take the moisture from the blu-tac and it will stain them where the blobs are. Anything plastic or metal will do. Had this happen to a pair of DM602's once, in the light wood finish. Left marks on the bottom of the speakers which just wouldnt come off as it'd soaked right through.

Be sure to level the stand perfectly flat aswell; otherwise the blue tac will allow the speaker to very slowly slide off the stand. It'd take years to fall off, but it's worth mentioning just incase :).

For demonstrating standmounts, I use a speaker stand with a whole flat pad of blu-tac (how it comes from the packet) with a rubber pad ontop of it.
 
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Anonymous

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Forgive my ignorance, but do speaker stands normally come with a flat plate onto which the speaker is placed? The only stands I had came with spikes on top that the speakers rested on so presumably this removes the need to use blu-tac, and seems like an all together better method of attaching, assuming the stand and speaker size are matched of course.
 

aliEnRIK

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I think most stands come flat, but have the holes there ready for spikes

Personally id rather 'dye' the bottom of the speaker than cut into it with a spike (Although thats not happened to my speakers)
 

Scissor_digits

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If you're willing to contemplate an alternative I can recommend Atacama's Isolation Gel Pads.

I noticed a subtle difference, which to my ears was an improvement, when I switched from Blu Tack with my old MA BR2's but I haven't tried a direct Blu Tack v Gel Pad comparison with my Dynaudios
 

Frank Harvey

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Over a period of time, it really starts to stick, and if you're not careful when taking (pulling!) the speakers off the stand (while you're standing on the stand's base - it's that sticky), it can rip off the veneer!
 

BenLaw

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Scissor_digits said:
If you're willing to contemplate an alternative I can recommend Atacama's Isolation Gel Pads.

I noticed a subtle difference, which to my ears was an improvement, when I switched from Blu Tack with my old MA BR2's but I haven't tried a direct Blu Tack v Gel Pad comparison with my Dynaudios

Fwiw I changed from gel pads to blu tack with my SCM11s and noticed a remarkable improvement, tighter bass in particular, which I think in term cleared things up in the mid range. Given that blu tack is also cheaper, I'd always go for that now.
 

Frank Harvey

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BenLaw said:
Fwiw I changed from gel pads to blu tack with my SCM11s and noticed a remarkable improvement, tighter bass in particular, which I think in term cleared things up in the mid range.

I see a What Hi-Fi Big Question coming on.... :bigsmile:
 
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Anonymous

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I would have thought that spikes were most effective, followed by blu-tac and gel pads last. Anything that allows the speakers to move fore/aft like squidgy gel pads isn't going to help the bass sound tight since the speaker can move a little. Gel probably provides better isolation given it is less "solid" so would be a good choice for isloating source components, but I can't see how gel would work well with speakers?

Now what about a set of small metal cones which have a sticky pad on the underside to attach to the stand (the pad should be resiliant like blu tac and thin enough so it does move laterally) and can be placed to fit the footprint of the speaker. These could be complemented by small metal plates that stick to the underside of the speaker to avoid damage from the the spikes, and with a wee dimple on the underside that the top of the cone locates into...
 

Scissor_digits

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BenLaw said:
Fwiw I changed from gel pads to blu tack with my SCM11s and noticed a remarkable improvement, tighter bass in particular, which I think in term cleared things up in the mid range. Given that blu tack is also cheaper, I'd always go for that now.

Well a remarkable improvement surely means having to dig out the Blu Tack to do a comparison
smiley-smile.gif
 

BenLaw

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FrankHarveyHiFi said:
Over a period of time, it really starts to stick, and if you're not careful when taking (pulling!) the speakers off the stand (while you're standing on the stand's base - it's that sticky), it can rip off the veneer!

Absolutely, my speakers are pretty much immovable now. Someone, possible Chebby, recently recommended sliding a non-scratching credit card through the blu tack to detach, sounds like a good plan.
 

bluebrazil

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i used a full pack of blu/white tac rolled into eight balls, instead of the top spikes i had, because i am a bit clumsy. i think the extra stability is priceless if the bottom of your stands are mass loaded with lead or similar.
 

Lee H

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In which case, I see a gap in the market for my new product - Silver plated, OFC, braided core, shielded, directional, reference, bi-tack.
 

Mr Morph

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Lee H said:
Surely there must be a high end Tack product available at £50 per pack?
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Oh, the industry was way ahead of you. Audioquest marketed a 6' X 6' sheet of something called 'Sorbothane' at about £15. It was a high viscosity compound dampening material (various applications, they used it on the skin of submarines to avoid sonar detection). I use the stuff between speaker and stand because of the reasons that David at Frank Harvey mentioned earlier. I've encountered exactly the same problem in someone elses system. If the blu tack sets for long enough, it will bond with the speaker cabinet to such an extent that the cabinet will come apart when removed, it really is much worse than super-glue. Mission also used Sorbothane in the feet of their 'Isoplat' isolation platform.

Out of the tests I did between spikes, blu tack, and sorbothane... the sorbothane did come out on top. Not too sure if they still make the stuff today?
 

Frank Harvey

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Sorbthane was supposed to have the same dampening qualities as human skin - good news for you serial killers out there - firstly, you have a free alternative, and secondly, you know how another use for you interests :)
 

scene

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FrankHarveyHiFi said:
Sorbthane was supposed to have the same dampening qualities as human skin - good news for you serial killers out there - firstly, you have a free alternative, and secondly, you know how another use for you interests :)

You been watching Dexter on DVD David? ;)
 

MUSICRAFT

Well-known member
Lee H said:
Now there's a line I thought I'd never type! So, I'll be getting some new speaker stands for my MA BX2s shortly, and have read about the virtues of using some Blu Tack between the speaker and the stand. How much though? Are we talking a pea sized amount, a squash ball size blob or something else altogether?

Is it then simply a case of a <insert blob size here> in each corner of the plate and carefully lower the speaker on, or do you push the speaker firmly on to the Blu Tack?

Hi Lee H

Blu Tack (the size of a penny coin) in each corner of the top plate will do the trick nicely. Lower and place the BX2's with mild force on the blu tack. Therefater leave the BX2's to settle down on their own weight.

Btw, Soundstyle XS122 stands are also worth a look.

All the best

Rick @ Musicraft