chebby said:What can I say in my defence ... ?
Van Damme 4mm with soldered spades.
I doubt if there is any difference to be honest.
I will be honest with you I do not understand myself why I had a change in sound everything hooked as it should be on my setup .chebby said:What can I say in my defence ... ?
Van Damme 4mm with soldered spades.
I doubt if there is any difference to be honest.
Blacksabbath25 said:I will be honest with you I do not understand myself why I had a change in sound everything hooked as it should be on my setup .
the only difference is I just soldiered the ends in silver soldier just to stop the lose wire from not going into the hole that's all
Blacksabbath25 said:The only thing I can think of is more resistance or less resistance from the speaker cable as the gold links that came with the speakers have a much bigger contact then the speaker cable has maybe the resistance changed ?
I read that years ago in what hifi when they used to put the tips section in the back of the magazine .CnoEvil said:Blacksabbath25 said:The only thing I can think of is more resistance or less resistance from the speaker cable as the gold links that came with the speakers have a much bigger contact then the speaker cable has maybe the resistance changed ?
If you want to try another free upgrade...polish all the plug pins with Brasso and clean further with Isopropyl Alcohol (if you have it) + clean all plugs on the end of the leads with the same Alcohol (or plug them in and out a couple of times). It's mad, but can improve the sound.
Blacksabbath25 said:I read that years ago in what hifi when they used to put the tips section in the back of the magazine .
if I remember rightly they used to say use Brasso on the 3 pins on the mains plugs as well *smile*
it does sound a bit over the top cleaning the fuses lol .CnoEvil said:Blacksabbath25 said:I read that years ago in what hifi when they used to put the tips section in the back of the magazine .
if I remember rightly they used to say use Brasso on the 3 pins on the mains plugs as well *smile*
It was on the three pins I was referring to....even take out the fuse and lean it and the fuse holder....paying attention to cleaning all contact points can IME make an audible difference.....but I'm as mad as a box of frogs (and just a little less mad than Ellisdj). *crazy*
andyjm said:abacus said:If you change the links yourself there will be a difference, if you get somebody else to change them (A blind test) there won’t.
Most links also have a larger CSA then jumper cable, so they will have less resistance. (Although the difference in resistance over that small gap will be negligible)
Remember, speaker cable/links are a well-known science, so as always, ignore anything mystical spouted out by Hi Fi cable manufactures.
Hope this helps
Bill
Words of wisdom from Bill.
The only thing that replacing the original jumpers with speaker wire will do is make matters worse.
Speaker wires do not have magic properties. A flat plate jumper supplied with the speaker will have lower resistance and greater contact area than a speaker cable and should be used if the option is available.
- though the length of the jumper is so small that any effect won't be audible.
A better solution is to get manufacturers to stop wasting money on useless biwire connections which are only there for marketing purposes and put the money saved toward better drivers, or come to that, lower the price of the speaker.
steve_1979 said:+1
Thank god for abacus and andyjm for injecting some sanity back into this thread.
CnoEvil said:steve_1979 said:+1
Thank god for abacus and andyjm for injecting some sanity back into this thread.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMzd40i8TfA
*blum3*
ellisdj said:Lucky to have a wife still with this setup lol.
She hates it and hates the time I spend with it etc.
so in other words you would use your actual speaker cable that you use to connect to amplifier instead of using any link at all so the bridge would be the actual speaker cables .lindsayt said:If you want to max out your links, why not just strip the right amount off the end of your speaker cables and use that to connect to both terminals for each polarity? In a so called "F" arrangement ("I" would be more representative)?
In that way you'd have one less join in your signal path.
Blacksabbath25 said:... so in other words you would use your actual speaker cable that you use to connect to amplifier instead of using any link at all so the bridge would be the actual speaker cables .
no not really but the audioquest cable is solid core cable with conductors cables around the main core so that's why I did not want to unclamp the ends that's alllindsayt said:I can understand your thinking on this Blacksabbath, especially if you're thinking of resale value, or keeping everything original.
If you ever fancy trying the "F" / "I" type speaker connection, just buy some 770 or 322 strand cable off ebay for £10 to £20 and cut the insulation off the ends to fit your terminals.