How do you judge the contrast setting with THX optimiser?

Oldboy

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Hello everyone,

I've had my Panasonic plasma for about 6 months now and have gone back to the THX optimiser to re calibrate but the section about contrast has always proved difficult to judge correctly and the description given on the THX disc is not helping much so my question is what am i looking for on the contrast section and are there any sure fire ways that can help me get the contrast correct?

All the other sections on the disc i find easy to get right but i've always found the contrast section a little vague as to what i'm looking for so any help would be very much appreciated, thank you.
 

Oldboy

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Thanks Clare,

Makes much more sense when described like that so i look forward to being able to calibrate correctly later on today
smiley-smile.gif
 

strapped for cash

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I've found with Panasonic plasmas that, even with contrast set to maximum, the boxes on the THX test pattern do not bleed into one another, meaning the THX optimiser isn't much help here. I'm guessing the same will be true with your G20, Oldboy.

I think the only solution, beyond pro calibration, is to leave the contrast at default setting on the THX picture preset. Then just set the brightness correctly and you're good to go. That's all I've done, though I'm considering buying a Spyder 3 colorimeter and techning myself advanced calibration.
 

D.J.KRIME

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strapped for cash said:
I've found with Panasonic plasmas that, even with contrast set to maximum, the boxes on the THX test pattern do not bleed into one another, meaning the THX optimiser isn't much help here. I'm guessing the same will be true with your G20, Oldboy.

I think the only solution, beyond pro calibration, is to leave the contrast at default setting on the THX picture preset. Then just set the brightness correctly and you're good to go. That's all I've done, though I'm considering buying a Spyder 3 colorimeter and techning myself advanced calibration.

Using the THX test paterns can give a improvement over the factory settings but from my experiance most modern Plasma TVs will display all 8 boxes without and bleed but the higher you set the contrast the more pushed the test patern looks and IMHO to correctly set anything on your TV you need to go the colorimeter route.

Have a look at my results after a basic 2 point calibration HERE using a spyder and IMHO you cant correct the failings in the factory default settings by eye alone using the THX patterns.
 

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D.J.KRIME said:
strapped for cash said:
I've found with Panasonic plasmas that, even with contrast set to maximum, the boxes on the THX test pattern do not bleed into one another, meaning the THX optimiser isn't much help here. I'm guessing the same will be true with your G20, Oldboy.

I think the only solution, beyond pro calibration, is to leave the contrast at default setting on the THX picture preset. Then just set the brightness correctly and you're good to go. That's all I've done, though I'm considering buying a Spyder 3 colorimeter and techning myself advanced calibration.

Using the THX test paterns can give a improvement over the factory settings but from my experiance most modern Plasma TVs will display all 8 boxes without and bleed but the higher you set the contrast the more pushed the test patern looks and IMHO to correctly set anything on your TV you need to go the colorimeter route.

Have a look at my results after a basic 2 point calibration HERE using a spyder and IMHO you cant correct the failings in the factory default settings by eye alone using the THX patterns.

Hi D.J. Krime

I completely agree that accurate calibration cannot be done by eye, though at least the THX patterns help with basic settings.

I had a good read of your thread a while back (and similar threads elsewhere) to determine how complicated advanced calibration is. Seems like you achieved excellent results.

How do you find the Spyder 3? I read a few reports that there were some problems with accuracy, which of course negates the point of using it. DIY advanced calibration means you're relying on relatively cheap equipment. If the colorimeter doesn't provide accurate readings, the TV would be set up incorrectly, and the user would never know.

I'm not stating this is the case with your set up, but it's the only reason I've hesitated to go down this route.
 

D.J.KRIME

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It is true that there are known issues with the accuracy of some spyder meters,I believe the figureswere split roughly that a third of spyder's were good,another third proformed OK and the remaining third awfull which is not good! luckly enough I purchased mine from a source where the spyders were tested for accuracy before being shipped, this professional testing did add a slight extra charge but at least I was assured a accurate set of readings. The only downside I find using a spyder is it's not brilliantwhen taking readings at low IRE 0-20. I daren't put a link to where I got my meter as it would be removed.

If I was recomending a starter meter I'd say get the eye-one, it's slightly more expensive over the spyder but they are know to have better accuracy as I believe they are tested before being packaged at the factory.
 

strapped for cash

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I read that the eye-one was better in this regard, though obviously you headed off any problems at the pass.

During a lull in work, if that ever happens, I'm determined to give it a go.

The only other reservation I have is that, assuming I can get to grips with advanced calibration, friends and family will expect me to calibrate their TV (not that I'd object, but I'm pushed for time as it is).
 

Oldboy

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strapped for cash said:
I've found with Panasonic plasmas that, even with contrast set to maximum, the boxes on the THX test pattern do not bleed into one another, meaning the THX optimiser isn't much help here. I'm guessing the same will be true with your G20, Oldboy.

I think the only solution, beyond pro calibration, is to leave the contrast at default setting on the THX picture preset. Then just set the brightness correctly and you're good to go. That's all I've done, though I'm considering buying a Spyder 3 colorimeter and techning myself advanced calibration.

Indeed!! Last night i tried the suggestion on the WHF THX optimiser guide and you are correct the boxes NEVER bleed or blur into each other leaving the contrast section completely useless for my plasma. Made me feel better that it wasn't just my eyes and/or judgement that was at fault though but it doesn't help much that THX may have made an oversite with the optimiser as it can't calibrate a plasma tv correctly, i wonder if all plasma tv's suffer here?

DJ Krime,

I have looked at advanced calibration before and found it very confusing and even the beginners guides that i found during a search went over my head perhaps because even those guides presume that you have some prior knowledge and understand what IRE is etc, i'm afraid i don't. That has put me off for some time now as originally i wanted to do this when i first got my plasma so i'm wondering how much prior knowledge you had before embarking on the calibration and how easy you found it to do?

If i had the money to burn i would think about ISF calibration but when i looked into that the rough cost was about £250 - £350 which i thought was excessive when put into context with the purchase price of my tv. I can understand the reasoning when you add up the cost of all your home cinema equipment but they only calibrate the tv picture so to me that doesn't really add up which is why i looked at the DIY method.
 

strapped for cash

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I have similar anxieties, Oldboy!

That said, even if the learning curve is steep, I'm sure I could get to grips with advanced calibration with enough practice (and frankly, I'm a complete idiot once you introduce a computer to any process). In other words, I'm sure there would be some confusion, frustration (and probably swearing) along the way.

The obvious advantage of DIY advanced clibration, beyond the fact that it's cheaper than paying an ISF engineer, is that you can repeat the process periodically to account for changes with the panel; not to mention the fact that you've then got the equipment (and hopefully confidence and experience) to calibrate other TVs.
 

Oldboy

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strapped for cash said:
I have similar anxieties, Oldboy!

That said, even if the learning curve is steep, I'm sure I could get to grips with advanced calibration with enough practice (and frankly, I'm a complete idiot once you introduce a computer to any process). In other words, I'm sure there would be some confusion, frustration (and probably swearing) along the way.

The obvious advantage of DIY advanced clibration, beyond the fact that it's cheaper than paying an ISF engineer, is that you can repeat the process periodically to account for changes with the panel; not to mention the fact that you've then got the equipment (and hopefully confidence and experience) to calibrate other TVs.

Great to hear i'm not alone in this regard strapped for cash!

When i looked at advanced calibration the deeper i dug the more confusing it became and i found the various guides on grey scales confusing also but perhaps that's mainly down to not being up to speed with the various jargon that is used and because i had no idea what i was looking at or for in the various guides lol.

It was the fact that black, contast and colour levels vary over the life of a plasma tv that pushed me towards DIY calibration because then i would have to have an ISF engineer out ideally once a year or so to check the calibration again and that is far too costly when the tv only cost £900 in the first place. Plus of course that once mastered i could charge my friends a small fee for calibrating their tv's lol, it's a hot topic amongst us as none of us feel they have got the best out of their respective screens.

I noticed in this months mag that LG (i think) have started to include an auto calibration mode in their new range of tv's, that's a step in the right direction but i wonder how accurate they are when compared to a proper DIY advanced calibration?
 

D.J.KRIME

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Now lets say I'm not the best at using Pc nor did I have any previous knowledge of advanced calibration prior to getting my spyder and using the guide and colorHCFR software. I did have a fairly good understanding of how various settings on the tv have knock-on effercts upon each other but was a complete novice when it came to 0-100 IRE patterns etc.

When you start using the colorHCFR software along with the online greyscale guide for dummies, you simply follow the step by step instructions that tell you which test patern to select on the DVE disk and what to click on the software, as you make adjustments within your TVs white ballance controls you can see in real time on your PC the impact the adjustments are having on either the colour ballance or brightness that your display is giving you.

It takes a little bit of trial and error and as you learn your way around your TVs controls and how to use the software you gain confidence and understanding of what your doing and end up much quicker and refer to the guide less. Don't worry about messing anything up on your TV as you can always reset it to factory defalts.
 

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Good to hear you were no more confident that I'd initially be. I've spent far too much on equipment of late, so this will have to wait. Sounds like a summer project!
 

Sizzers

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strapped for cash said:
I've found with Panasonic plasmas that, even with contrast set to maximum, the boxes on the THX test pattern do not bleed into one another, meaning the THX optimiser isn't much help here. I'm guessing the same will be true with your G20, Oldboy.

Oldboy said:
Indeed!! Last night i tried the suggestion on the WHF THX optimiser guide and you are correct the boxes NEVER bleed or blur into each other leaving the contrast section completely useless for my plasma.

Agreed, totally useless.

My thinking was to use the optimizer as a (hopefully) reasonable standby until I could afford to buy a decent colorimeter and embark on the steep learning curve of D-I-Y calibration. Now I'm just beginning to feel screwed and very frustrated. :wall: :wall:
 

strapped for cash

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Sizzers said:
strapped for cash said:
I've found with Panasonic plasmas that, even with contrast set to maximum, the boxes on the THX test pattern do not bleed into one another, meaning the THX optimiser isn't much help here. I'm guessing the same will be true with your G20, Oldboy.

Oldboy said:
Indeed!! Last night i tried the suggestion on the WHF THX optimiser guide and you are correct the boxes NEVER bleed or blur into each other leaving the contrast section completely useless for my plasma.

Agreed, totally useless.

My thinking was to use the optimizer as a (hopefully) reasonable standby until I could afford to buy a decent colorimeter and embark on the steep learning curve of D-I-Y calibration. Now I'm just beginning to feel screwed and very frustrated. :wall: :wall:

Right, but you can still use the THX patterns to set other levels.

Assuming the THX picture preset's default contrast setting is close to "optimal," it should be a reasonable baseline from which make other adjustments. In other words, THX test patterns are not entirely useless when calibrating Pansonic plasmas, though they have certain limitations.

If you're serious about calibration there's really no substitute for getting a professional in, or plunging head-first into the world of DIY advanced calibration. The latter option's still reasonably far down my "to do" list. Maybe one day...
 

Oldboy

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There is a FREE alternative that i happened to stumble across soon after posting this thread...it's called AVS HD 709 and is an open source calibration tool which you copy to dvd for calibration and it includes an exhaustive amount of test patterns and a 'how to' video about every process of calibration.

It's by far the best calibration tool i have found at judging contrast, brightness and colour but you do require some sort of blue filter to calibrate the colour, either a pair of THX specs, the filters included in DVE Essentials disc or the blue mode that some tvs can show on screen.

As it's an open source you have to be careful to copy and burn the correct file for use in a bluray player for more accurate results but full instructions are provided and i have to say that i've found it far more accurate than the THX calibration and the DVE Essentials disc (blimey is that long winded eh).

It's that good that i haven't felt the need to investigate calibration any further at present but the thought of using a proper colorimeter still appeals although from the research i have done it does seem very technical and perhaps a little beyond my capabilities or perhaps i'm just too lazy? I'm very happy with the results from the AVS disc so i don't really feel the need to investigate further and it's therefore fallen down my list too...perhaps one day i will get round to it.

If the house will permit me here is the link to the AVS disc with full instructions to download and burn, hope it helps you as much as it did me:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496
 

strapped for cash

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Oldboy said:
If the house will permit me here is the link to the AVS disc with full instructions to download and burn, hope it helps you as much as it did me:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

Cheers Oldboy.

Work schedule permitting, I'll give it a go at some point soon, though I'll need to get a blue filter to fine tune colour...
 

Sizzers

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Hi Oldboy. Very kind and helpful as always, and thank you.

I've already been down that route here with, er, not very good results! lol. I gathered beforehand there might be some faff to set the TV up, but....

Misplaced my copy of DVE (which I truly hate) but guess I'll have to get around to ordering another copy. Never mind, at least I've got Alf filling the room to calm me down.... 8)
 

Oldboy

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strapped for cash said:
Oldboy said:
If the house will permit me here is the link to the AVS disc with full instructions to download and burn, hope it helps you as much as it did me:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

Cheers Oldboy.

Work schedule permitting, I'll give it a go at some point soon, though I'll need to get a blue filter to fine tune colour...

No worries ;)

If you can find the time it's well worth taking the time out to burn it to disc and go through the calibration...let me know how you get on.
 

Oldboy

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Sizzers said:
Hi Oldboy. Very kind and helpful as always, and thank you.

I've already been down that route here with, er, not very good results! lol. I gathered beforehand there might be some faff to set the TV up, but....

Misplaced my copy of DVE (which I truly hate) but guess I'll have to get around to ordering another copy. Never mind, at least I've got Alf filling the room to calm me down.... 8)

Well that's strange...what i can say is that i sometimes get some cds that simply don't like my laptop and therefore i can't copy to iTunes and they make a strange wurring sound and fail to even register as a disc in my laptop but i can't say i have ever had such an issue with a burnt dvd. Such a shame as it's well worth using AVS for calibration, have you not tried the download and burn from scratch just incase something went awry in the process?

I truly dislike the DVE disc i'm afraid, it's soooo long winded that i almost fell asleep and i found the end result poor and inaccurate but it's definately better than no calibration atall so may be worth persevering with but if possible i would steer you towards AVS as it's a far better tool. You could get someone else to perform the download and burn on their system to see if that eradicates the disc issue, for example.
 

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