Interconnects - Turntable-to-preamp.Which are best?

admin_exported

New member
Aug 10, 2019
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Are there any interconnects to avoid when connecting a MM cartridge to a phono pre-amp.Most interconnects work using line-level signals, but the output generated by a moving magnet cartridge is much lower, and iv'e heard of problems due to capacitance and microphony.I'm currently looking to replace/upgrade the interconnect on a Rega RB300.Any sugesstions??
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Any tips about what riaa amp to use with nad 533, denon160 pickup.

I have a nad c372 amp and shortlist of riaa:

Nad pp-2

Cambridge 540p or 640p

any tips Andrew?
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Hello again.

I tried both the cambridge 640p and nad pp-1 in a local store. My ears liked nad better. The bass was stronger but vocals were better om cambridge.....

My kind of vinyl is rock and dance so the choice was easy. The pp-1 was a old amp and i got it for about 10 euros.........

Fredrik
 

Thaiman

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Jul 28, 2007
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That made a nice change! most people prefer CA 640p to the NAD PP1 but for 10 euro! Can I have ten please.
 
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Anonymous

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[quote user="Andrew Everard"]
Personally I'd stick with the standard ones. Rega tends to know what it's doing in this department

[/quote]

The general concencus (around the web) seems to be that Rega Tonearms only really "shine" at their full potential when the cable is upgraded, due to the poor quality of wire used within the arm.Would you not recommend the looms from Origin Live, Incognito, etc...

What I actually wanted to do was replace the interconnect leads which are between tonearm, and amplifier, but retain the fine tonearm wires within the tonearm-tube and base.Given the size of the appeture where the fly-leads leave the arm, I think anything more than 6mm (x2) diameter will have trouble fitting.The replacement interconnects would have to be quite supple too.

I was thinking of something from Van Den Hul maybe, but as I originally posted, I don't want an interconnect that is sensitive to capacitance, resistance, etc... due to the miniscule signal from a mm cartridge.

Any advice would be thank fully recieved.
 
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Anonymous

Guest
[quote user="jimc"]
For the Rega300 tonearm I strongly recommend the Incognito re-wire which gives you 1.5 m of
Cardas wire from cartridge pins to plugs (and very good plugs they are). Not cheap but very effective.

Take a look at:

http://www.britishaudio.co.uk/incognito.html
[/quote]

Yes I considered the Likes of Incognito and Origin Live, but I feel that if confident enough, you can do the job yourself at a fraction of the cost.Iv'e done tonearm mods before, and at this point only want to replace the output interconnects, not the tonearm leads.That's a little more tricky!

I find it more satisfying also when you do the mods yourself, you know exactly where the improvements are, and why the improvements are there.

Thanks for your advice.
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Good point - I actually bought the arm pre-wired so I'm reporting an "improvement" based on other 300s
I've heard. It's interesting that to note that even real hard core build-it, mod-it yourself people are starting to take a view that cable companies have access to materials and assembly technology that we amateurs don't -
hence their products will always be that bit better. (I base this on an article in a magazine I can't mention here).

I'd be very interested to know how your mods. proceed.
Apparently, there great milage in stuffing the conterweight spring with bluTack.
Oh, that's assuming you use the conterweight to set the tracking force.

hmmmm, think I'll take some BluTack home with me.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
[quote user="jimc"]

Apparently, there great milage in stuffing the conterweight spring with
bluTack.
Oh, that's assuming you use the conterweight to set
the tracking force.

hmmmm, think I'll take some BluTack home with me.
[/quote]

I'd heard that foam packing (the type your seperates are wrapped in when boxed) cut into slithers, and inserted between the spring coils can reduce ringing.I imagine blu-tack to be a little dense, even heavy, affecting the down-force(vtf).
 
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Anonymous

Guest
The thing, of course, is to "disable" the spring by winding it fully up or down and then adjust the tracking
force with the counterweight. Many recommend setting spring to MAX but I've tried this and the counterweight
ends up too far back. I think the reason people suggest foam is that it is easily removed, unlike BluTack or
thick grease (also recommended!), if you ever decide you want to go back to using the spring.

FYI - a hifi mag. (that I won't mention here) will be reviewing turbocharged Rega300s in the next issue.
 

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