Help Pls - Speaker cables for B&W MT 30 !!!!

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Hi,

I ordered my new sound system - the B&W MT 30 (which includes the PV 1sub). Now I'm faced with a dilemma as to which cables I should use to connect these to my amp (SC LX81) in order to get the best possible sound quality. I was thinking of QED Silver Anniversary XT initially but the dealer says it might not fit through the in-lets in the B&W speaker & the speaker stands as they are very narrow. Also I understand I cannot use the banana plugs for the M1s as they have their own connection method. Is this the case ? If so can anybody pls advise the best options available to me ?

Thanks in advance...

Cheers !
 

Big Chris

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Fear not, your dealer is being over cautious.

I use QED S.A XT with my MT-30 system, yes it's snug, but it's not a problem and you've only gotta wire them in once. ***Although, I'm using the wall brackets and the table-top stands for mine. If you're using the optional floor-stands, you might want to double check***

The M1 speakers use small grub screws in the bases/wall brackets to secure the cable, so banana plugs are a no-no (Of course, you could still use banana plugs for the amp end.
 
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Anonymous

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Thanks Chris. Yes I'll be using the floor-stands. So that might be the reason why I was told that QED Silver XT might not be the right option. Assuming that's the case, any alternatives to get the best out of the system?
 

Big Chris

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Well. If they haven't got the facilities, or 2 minutes to spare to stuff a bit of wire up a stand and check for themselves. I'd maybe look at the QED Micro.

;-)
 
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Anonymous

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Cheers Chris ! I'll ask them to try the QED Siver Anniversary XT. Fall back option will be the micro ! Cheers !
 

professorhat

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I used QED Micro for the M1s which make up my rears (also using the stands), but that was mainly due to the long lengths involved. I was advised the same thing and I'll be honest, it was quite fiddley to get the Micro cable in. I have read elsewhere that the QED Anniversary will fit but it's even more fiddley to do! It's probably worth seeing if you can either get them to test when you're at the dealer, or ask if you can borrow some to see for yourself. If it's not possible, you can then exchange for the QED Micro.
 

Big Chris

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Darshana:Cheers Chris ! I'll ask them to try the QED Siver Anniversary XT. Fall back option will be the micro ! Cheers !

TBH. I'm surprised they haven't checked already. It's in their interest to sell you the S.A XT as it's dearer than the micro!
 

Cofnchtr

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Big Chris:Darshana:Cheers Chris ! I'll ask them to try the QED Siver Anniversary XT. Fall back option will be the micro ! Cheers !

TBH. I'm surprised they haven't checked already. It's in their interest to sell you the S.A XT as it's dearer than the micro!

Hi,

Unless it's a 'free' cable offer they have wangled in to the deal!!

Above suggestion of 'try before you buy' or at least ask the dealer to do this is a good one because as stated already, it's in their interest to try it. If not only for your benefit but their own so the next person who enquires can be given an informed answer.

Cheers,

Cofnchtr.
 
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Anonymous

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I use the QED Silver Aniversary XT as well and it fits in nicely with the included speaker stands and wall bracket.

What do you guys use to connect your PV1 sub to the amp? I'm still trying to find the best connection that will maximise the performance of this highly rated sub.
 
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Anonymous

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Total pain those M1's, I don't think B&W could have designed a more awkward method of wiring them up !

When I did mine, I had Chord's Carnival Silverscreen, which is huge in diameter, no way that was going to go through the holes.....But it's not too bad, just have to cut back the outerÿsheath neatlyÿat the entrance to the stand/bracket, push it through, then cut back a bit more once inside to reveal the two individual wires, and connect them to the posts....

All a bit of a pfaff ÿand waste of time really for how long I ended up listening to them!.....Now sitting in boxes in front of me waiting to be sold.

Look good though !ÿ
 
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Anonymous

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Oh, and as you already know, I have the Chord Cobra running to the PV1. Or there's the cheaper Crimson as ProfHat advised...
 
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Anonymous

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Hi SC,

Why are you changing all your Chord Cables?

Am I right to say that your Chord Cobra and the Prof's Crimson are analogue and not digital coaxial cables like the manual recommends?

Thanks!
 

daveh75

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seakingadvice:Am I right to say that your Chord Cobra and the Prof's Crimson are analogue and not digital coaxial cables like the manual recommends? Thanks! sub-woofer cables are co-axial cable's also, It's not just digital i/c cables that are co-axial!
 
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Anonymous

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Im not changing all the cables, I'm changing the whole system....Have been for a few months now. Chord cables are fine cables and I would thoroughly recommend them....

As for the co-ax thing, I think daveh75 is right, in that co-ax is a type of cable structure, regardless of whether the signal is digital or analogue. True, co-ax is normally referred, and used, in the digital sense, but I think if you read some of the technicalÿexplanationsÿon Chord's own website, you will understand the concept a little better. I think in the case of the sub cable, because it is essentially a mono signal, the termination at the plugs is done slightly different...something like that anyway !

Don't worry to much about it. If you want Chord, just make an order with a decent dealer, explain to them what it is for, and everything should be taken care of...

Steveÿ
 
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Anonymous

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Thanks. Now back to speaker cables, does it make any difference to sound quality if we were to add in banana plugs into the AV Receiver side only as the cables need to be connected "raw" to the tiny B&W M1s?
 
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Anonymous

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Not really, though depends who you ask...!

I know Mr E has given advice on this in another thread....

Plugs are moreÿconvenient and reduce the need to strip back the bare cable every so often to reduce oxidation over time....

I had my cables terminated with Chord plugs and sleeves simply because it didn't add too much to the cost and it made for a neater and clearer mass of cables at the rear of the AVR.ÿ
 
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Anonymous

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You only had one side terminated right?

Do you have the link to the other thread that you're referring to?
 
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Anonymous

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Yep, The amp end....Which also helped in easily seeing the direction of the cables, quite obviously...

SynergyAV made up all the cables for me and did a good job.

Don't have the link to hand, I'm sure it can be found quite easily through search...ÿ
 
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Anonymous

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Couldn't find the thread. Any idea what the thread title was?

Did you get the original QED plugs or just some third party generic? I'm still contemplating this but someone told me that it was pointless to only terminate one end but not the other. But with the M1s, unfortunately, there is no way of doing both sides.
 
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Anonymous

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Chord plugs and sleeves, as I have Carnival Silverscreen...
 

professorhat

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Link doesn't work as there's a space on the end - here it is again. Also, seakingadvice, it's certainly not pointless getting a cable terminated on one end. I have the same for my M1 rears - one side is terminated with just standard banana plugs (the kind that you screw on to the wire) which goes into the amp and the other is bare wire into the M1s. The terminated end just means it's easier to unplug and plug into the amp - I don't believe there's any sonic benefit.
 
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Anonymous

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Cheers Prof, didn't see the space...have amended the original link also.
 
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Anonymous

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Thanks guys!

Is there any difference between "airloc" termination and "normal" termination? Is it true that an "airloc" termination means that the cable will not degrade at all over time so we don't have to worry about stripping fresh wire every year or so?

I was reading the other post and the removing of the bung thingy puzzled me. Once removed, can the bung be put back at all? Or does it mean that after removing the bung, the only way to connect in the future would be with plugs?
 

professorhat

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Main advantage of Airloc termination is the cable won't oxidise anywhere near as quickly over time thus meaning you don't need to keep stripping the cable back to ensure a good electrical connection.

With the bungs, they don't limit the connection at all, the only reason they are there is, a banana plug is very similar in shape and size to a continental power adapter. Because of the dangers involved, under EU law therefore, they are banned so manufacturers have to bung the holes and pretend banana plugs don't exist in European manuals. So remove the bungs and you can use banana plugs, but you can still terminate in the normal bare wire way at a later date if you wish. There's no reason to put the bungs back in unless an EU inspector is coming round your house to do a safety inspection
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